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Seems this may be a really helpfull thread to start . The hunting seasons will soon be over and many will need info on the best way to safely protect their mz for storage . Im always open to learn a better way to.do most anything . So boys lets hear how YOU prepare your pride and joy for an extended nap !!!

Im hopeing this will save some from the horror of pulling it out in the future and finding out Ole Betsy is now wounded or worse yet ....junk......

We all know it can and DOES happen . There is way to much talent here on MM to let this continue . So sound off and lets compare notes !!!
 
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I store all of my inlines with the plugs out. The plugs are kept in my field/range box. I haven't got room in the safe for the muzzies so they are kept in a closet that tends to be very dry all year. The are never kept in any kind of case. I shoot quite a bit in the off season so the guns get handled often. And I just like handling them from time to time so a oil damp patch gets run thru all of them fairly often in addition to the cleaning after range sessions. My Optima pistol is the exception. It rests in a padded, hard side, pistol box with the cover blocked slightly open. It gets handled when I tinker with the long guns so it sees the same care.

All of my CF guns are in a safe with the actions open. The handguns are all revolvers so they don't get any special care other than the rub down with a gun cloth after handling just like the rifles and muzzies.
 
I’m similar to MrTom with the M-Ls, plugs out, outside the gunsafe. I don’t shoot them a whole lot away from Fall & deer seasons, MI, possibly WI, then IL.

I clean them very well, stock off if moisture was present. Once clean I leave a damp bore, gun oil coat of some type.

With the breech plug out, it’s easy to do a damp swab occasionally in the off season. For longer term storage I may use R.I.G. grease.

My M-L bores are mint, even though the gun is 20+ years old.
 
Excellent guys !!! Plug out is a GREAT IDEA !!! So is the RIG grease !!!

One thing i REALLY want to offer all here is for your wooden stocks . We've all seen or had stocks on our guns that have cracked or warped . This is really heart breaking . There is something we CAN DO to PREVENT THIS !!!! And the wood will become even PRETTIER with its natural glow enhanced !!!

I use Aurther Formby's Lemon Oil . Its available darn near everywhere and works wonders !!! Wood needs to be fed . Otherwise it will dry out and warp or crack . Sometimes both !!
Saturate the unfinished INSIDES of your stocks and pull off butt plates and recoil pads too . Get those areas good and wet SEVERAL TIMES , even forming puddles . It may take several applications until it wont absorb any more . Ive SEEN THIS straighten a warped stock back to its original form . Cracks wont happen . It kinda water proofs them too . It greatly lessens or eliminates tempature or humidity crawl of the wood from season to season . Lemon oil is a keeper !!!!

Our stocks are usually never given a second thought . I LOVE the look and feel of a beautiful wood stock . It doesnt have to be exhibition grade for me to appreciate its natural beauty and feel either . Lemon oil seems to enhance its grain definition over time as well . Petroleum oils will rot wood eventually ( yes i know how to remove it) . Lemon oil preserves it , even the screw holes holding on butt pads .!!! Oil them up yearly , you wont regret it.

The tree gave its life to do a job . As i carry it , sit in the woods or fields , or just admire that gun its wood is a HUGE part of that . I like to admire that inner beauty and know its cared for as i look around and see all that ive been so richly blessed to be a part of in the "Real World" .
 
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I will be paying attention to this thread. I referred to a rookie mistake I did in another thread already, but it bears repeating. I had a new TC Omega that went to the gun range. I was using White Hot pellets. After I got home, I put it in my storeroom to clean it up later. After forgetting to do that, I pulled it out 3 years later. Big rookie mistake. The rusty bore was soaked with a rust remover, and then cleaned with bore cleaner. It appears ok, but time will tell when I shoot it again. Live and learn- especially learn from a thread like this.
 
I'd order up some of this product. https://www.brownells.com/gun-clean...mbedding-bore-cleaning-compound-prod1160.aspx

O bought a used muzzy at a Pawn shop that had a couple questionable spots in the bore and after about ten patches spread with this bore compound paste and twenty strokes per patch that barrel is slick as a whistle. Its a shooter too. I think a lot of people here have found new life in some tough looking bores using this product.
 
I will be paying attention to this thread. I referred to a rookie mistake I did in another thread already, but it bears repeating. I had a new TC Omega that went to the gun range. I was using White Hot pellets. After I got home, I put it in my storeroom to clean it up later. After forgetting to do that, I pulled it out 3 years later. Big rookie mistake. The rusty bore was soaked with a rust remover, and then cleaned with bore cleaner. It appears ok, but time will tell when I shoot it again. Live and learn- especially learn from a thread like this.
Sorry to hear this . I hope youll be ok. I dont know which rust remover you used . Most all are quite toxic .
There is one that is called "EVAPO RUST" that is not and works well . Roughness in the bore can be smoothed a bit by #0000 steel wool or the white ultra fine scotchbrite wrapped around a bore brush going from breech to muzzle . Be carefull with this however . The steel isnt the same on a mz as compared to cf . You could end up with a brand new caliber if overdone . Believe me , i KNOW.....

I think id try mr toms suggestion first
.
What i said will suprise you quickly , i.e. , the scotchbrite , if its NOT the White . My bk-92's original barrel is now somewhere between a 54 and a 58 !!! Smooth as glass but BIG , oh boy !!! One day i will attempt to take it to a 58 while useing a gauge pin for sizing , and a boot in my hiney for letting this happen . I KNEW BETTER .

Some RIG grease after a proper cleaning could have prevented this . Thanks for that widude !!!

I loaned it out to my best friend and didnt get it back for a long time . My fault too , i forgot......he didnt know how corrosive the powders we use can be . Live and learn crash and burn . It was a gift from my folks who have recieved their heavenly promotions . I hope to salvage that barrel , even if its a 50 barrel on there now . Its Priceless to me......
 
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Excellent guys !!! Plug out is a GREAT IDEA !!!

One thing i REALLY want to offer all here is for your wooden stocks . We've all seen or had stocks on our guns that have cracked or warped . This is really heart breaking . There is something we CAN DO to PREVENT THIS !!!! And the wood will become even PRETTIER with its natural glow enhanced !!!

I use Aurther Formby's Lemon Oil . Its available darn near everywhere and works wonders !!! Wood needs to be fed . Otherwise it will dry out and warp or crack . Sometimes both !!
Saturate the unfinished INSIDES of your stocks and pull off butt plates and recoil pads too . Get those areas good and wet SEVERAL TIMES , even forming puddles . It may take several applications until it wont absorb any more . Ive SEEN THIS straighten a warped stock back to its original form . Cracks wont happen . It kinda water proofs them too . It greatly lessens or eliminates tempature or humidity crawl of the wood from season to season . Lemon oil is a keeper !!!!

Our stocks are usually never given a second thought . I LOVE the look and feel of a beautiful wood stock . It doesnt have to be exhibition grade for me to appreciate its natural beauty and feel either . Lemon oil seems to enhance its grain definition over time as well . Petroleum oils will rot wood eventually ( yes i know how to remove it) . Lemon oil preserves it , even the screw holes holding on butt pads .!!! Oil them up yearly , you wont regret it.

The tree gave its life to do a job . As i carry it , sit in the woods or fields , or just admire that gun its wood is a HUGE part of that . I like to admire that inner beauty and know its cared for as i look around and see all that ive been so richly blessed to be a part of in the "Real World" .

I've used lemon oil before. Some women use it on fine furniture.
 
I'd order up some of this product. https://www.brownells.com/gun-clean...mbedding-bore-cleaning-compound-prod1160.aspx

O bought a used muzzy at a Pawn shop that had a couple questionable spots in the bore and after about ten patches spread with this bore compound paste and twenty strokes per patch that barrel is slick as a whistle. Its a shooter too. I think a lot of people here have found new life in some tough looking bores using this product.
I will check out this product. I've got nothing to lose by giving it a try. Thanks.
 
Sorry to hear this . I hope youll be ok. I dont know which rust remover you used . Most all are quite toxic .
There is one that is called "EVAPO RUST" that is not and works well . Roughness in the bore can be smoothed a bit by #0000 steel wool or the white ultra fine scotchbrite wrapped around a bore brush going from breech to muzzle . Be carefull with this however . The steel isnt the same on a mz as compared to cf . You could end up with a brand new caliber if overdone . Believe me , i KNOW.....
As a matter of fact it was Evapo-rust that I used. It did work good, and got the rust out from what I can tell.
 
I will check out this product. I've got nothing to lose by giving it a try. Thanks.

Here’s another Product i use, and Swear By :lewis: This is gonna be similar to what Tom just Linked, This is Montana Extreme’s Version of JB’s Bore Paste. I have used this Stuff with STELLAR Results, I do this with EVERY New Rifle. Cut some Strips of 0000 Steel Wool and Place over a Patched Jag, Get a TIGHT Fit, Add this Compound and Give the Bore about 100 Strokes, 1 Stroke being all the Way down, and Back to Exit the Bore, That is 1 Stroke :lewis:
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Thanks for the tip, Idaholewis. Sorry for sidetracking the thread from the original intent. My point was to those that are new to muzzleloading, pay attention here, and clean your equipment right away with the techniques the folks post here.
 
Has anybody ever heard of coating the bore heavily with Crisco ?? A old timer told me this a couple years ago....

His idea was to so heavily coat that bore with something that was kinda stiff and would not sag or run ,
Liquified up on a shotgun tip patch you pull through the tip . Forget right now what their called . No oxygen = no rust . Especially for extended , long term storage -- years.
Any ideas on this ??? A poor mans cosmoline possibly ???
 
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Thanks for the tip, Idaholewis. Sorry for sidetracking the thread from the original intent. My point was to those that are new to muzzleloading, pay attention here, and clean your equipment right away with the techniques the folks post here.
Thank you for that and thank you to all who give something here . No one has knowledge cornered !!!

Your contribution fits in here absolutely !!! Perfect spot for it truly . I only hope to help all who come and see . Glad you stopped and shared !!!
Even better if weve helped !!!!
 
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Like the lemon oil suggestion. I will try it as I prefer wooden stocks but never heard about apply lemon oil to the inside. Thanks
 
Every ML should be empty, clean/wiped off after use (unless maybe hunting camp or following day).
I believe it’s more about the environment that are kept, than anything else that’s detrimental longer term.
I’m fortunate to own many original percussion guns from the mid-late 1800’s. I clean my in-lines the same, bore clean, oil/wipe all metal surfaces. I’ve never in 30 years of ownership worried about the wood on my originals, I actually try to avoid getting excess oil on it. A little goes a long way.
Many times I’ll check the bore a few days later or following weekend of the original shot - just to make sure it’s good. Very rarely have I found evidence of a poor job cleaning/oiling.
 
Every ML should be empty, clean/wiped off after use (unless maybe hunting camp or following day).
I believe it’s more about the environment that are kept, than anything else that’s detrimental longer term.
I’m fortunate to own many original percussion guns from the mid-late 1800’s. I clean my in-lines the same, bore clean, oil/wipe all metal surfaces. I’ve never in 30 years of ownership worried about the wood on my originals, I actually try to avoid getting excess oil on it. A little goes a long way.
Many times I’ll check the bore a few days later or following weekend of the original shot - just to make sure it’s good. Very rarely have I found evidence of a poor job cleaning/oiling.
The lemon oil is actually very good for wood . Petrolium oils are not , in fact they harm it .
Most folks never give their wood a second thought . Many even get away with it all their lives . Murphy's Law just wont cut me any slack !!!
 

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