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Discussion in 'Bullet Casting' started by 45-70, Feb 12, 2020.
That is one mold I don’t own, and one i have read lots of good about. I have looked at this Bullet many times and thought about adding it to my Collection.
most aren't made to drawing specks, but it does shoot good, must be hard lead 16-1 or better, like to have one for MZ specs'
Got to be close to 600 grains. My .451 is close to that same nose profile but only 1.200 long. It weighs in at 455. I’ll build the mold if anyone wants to shoot a few, I’ll send them out. Or send you the mold for a week to cast up as many as you can in a week, as long as you send it back....
What I notice as odd about this bullet is the super shallow lube grooves, and the fact that the bullet gets larger as it goes back. .450 - .459 as you progress down the bullet. I would cut the mold at .458-.459 and hope for a .454 drop. I could then size to .4505-.4510. I think I’ll cut the grooves to be .030 deep instead of .020-.0245. I like a little extra lube in there.
only weighs 525 grains
then you lose the essence of the bullet design,
That’s true, but, how do you get it down the barrel? Unless you are shooting a cartridge gun. I guess if you kept it proportioned the same, but so that it dropped with the bottom three bands at .451-452. I was thinking primarily of using in a muzzleloader.
My guess is, with this being obviously designed for a cartridge gun, is the smaller first three lands, just help guide it through the throat of the rifle, and with a hard bullet, keep the friction down a bit. with the larger bottom lands, sealing the bore good to wring every last little bit of energy from the powder charge to keep it behind the bullet.
With a softer alloy, out of a muzzleloader, I would think that bullet would obturate enough that all the bands would end up the same diameter anyway.
I think the key to its long range accuracy is the length of it, coupled with the design of the nose, but I’m no ballistic expert either. In fact I don’t claim to be an expert on anything but building ductwork.
need to be scaled to .451 or .450. The rest needs an engineer to do it for a mz
I just started the blocks for building it as I described earlier. Bet it shoots.
It obviously won’t be exact, but it will look the same. Bullet stability calculator comes in at 1.74 driving it at 1150 FPS out of a 20 twist, compared to a 18 twist at 2.15 (over stabilized). I think it will shoot.
For an MZ or a cartridge gun? I just started a mold for an ML version of it. Obviously not exactly the same, but I don’t think removing the reverse taper will make much difference out of an ML
I think you are correct, but should get 1300 any way just using black, no more than 1.400 inches long
Almost 50% of the bullet length is in the ogive. While that should be ok in a 1-20 there could be another issue to contend with.....Nose slump if you use very soft lead. You might have to cast these a bit harder and that makes sizing more critical for a ML.
remember this is not a hunting bullet
Right. Doc lists a 520 grain Power Punch on his website driven by 100 grains Pyro p. I’m sure this has a big fat meplat so it would seem to me to be a longer bullet than the “Money Bullet” if that bullet is coming in at 525 grains. I’ve read some stuff about “nose slump” and often wondered if it was at impact, or discharge. All things to consider. Thanks for the tips/cautions. As I’ve said before, a lot of very knowledgeable people on here, and nobody’s comments are taken lightly. I may scrap the whole idea. I screwed up the alignment pins somehow anyway, so I’ve got to redo that before I proceed with anything.
people in BPCR game used a mixture of 16-1 , lead tin, I use a version of it from buffalo arms which isn't tapered , also 16-1 in my 45-70
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