most aren't made to drawing specks, but it does shoot good, must be hard lead 16-1 or better, like to have one for MZ specs'That is one mold I don’t own, and one i have read lots of good about. I have looked at this Bullet many times and thought about adding it to my Collection.
Got to be close to 600 grains. My .451 is close to that same nose profile but only 1.200 long. It weighs in at 455. I’ll build the mold if anyone wants to shoot a few, I’ll send them out. Or send you the mold for a week to cast up as many as you can in a week, as long as you send it back....
only weighs 525 grainsGot to be close to 600 grains. My .451 is close to that same nose profile but only 1.200 long. It weighs in at 455. I’ll build the mold if anyone wants to shoot a few, I’ll send them out. Or send you the mold for a week to cast up as many as you can in a week, as long as you send it back....
then you lose the essence of the bullet design,What I notice as odd about this bullet is the super shallow lube grooves, and the fact that the bullet gets larger as it goes back. .450 - .459 as you progress down the bullet. I would cut the mold at .458-.459 and hope for a .454 drop. I could then size to .4505-.4510. I think I’ll cut the grooves to be .030 deep instead of .020-.0245. I like a little extra lube in there.
That’s true, but, how do you get it down the barrel? Unless you are shooting a cartridge gun. I guess if you kept it proportioned the same, but so that it dropped with the bottom three bands at .451-452. I was thinking primarily of using in a muzzleloader.then you lose the essence of the bullet design,
For an MZ or a cartridge gun? I just started a mold for an ML version of it. Obviously not exactly the same, but I don’t think removing the reverse taper will make much difference out of an MLThat is one mold I don’t own, and one i have read lots of good about. I have looked at this Bullet many times and thought about adding it to my Collection.
I think you are correct, but should get 1300 any way just using black, no more than 1.400 inches longFor an MZ or a cartridge gun? I just started a mold for an ML version of it. Obviously not exactly the same, but I don’t think removing the reverse taper will make much difference out of an ML
remember this is not a hunting bulletAlmost 50% of the bullet length is in the ogive. While that should be ok in a 1-20 there could be another issue to contend with.....Nose slump if you use very soft lead. You might have to cast these a bit harder and that makes sizing more critical for a ML.
Right. Doc lists a 520 grain Power Punch on his website driven by 100 grains Pyro p. I’m sure this has a big fat meplat so it would seem to me to be a longer bullet than the “Money Bullet” if that bullet is coming in at 525 grains. I’ve read some stuff about “nose slump” and often wondered if it was at impact, or discharge. All things to consider. Thanks for the tips/cautions. As I’ve said before, a lot of very knowledgeable people on here, and nobody’s comments are taken lightly. I may scrap the whole idea. I screwed up the alignment pins somehow anyway, so I’ve got to redo that before I proceed with anything.remember this is not a hunting bullet
people in BPCR game used a mixture of 16-1 , lead tin, I use a version of it from buffalo arms which isn't tapered , also 16-1 in my 45-70Right. Doc lists a 520 grain Power Punch on his website driven by 100 grains Pyro p. I’m sure this has a big fat meplat so it would seem to me to be a longer bullet than the “Money Bullet” if that bullet is coming in at 525 grains. I’ve read some stuff about “nose slump” and often wondered if it was at impact, or discharge. All things to consider. Thanks for the tips/cautions. As I’ve said before, a lot of very knowledgeable people on here, and nobody’s comments are taken lightly. I may scrap the whole idea. I screwed up the alignment pins somehow anyway, so I’ve got to redo that before I proceed with anything.
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