Ordering an Accurate Bullet Mold (How to)

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Idaholewis

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I thought i would bring this back up, with an added picture. I get asked this Question a lot. Folks aren’t exactly sure how to go about ordering, and getting what they want? A bullet mold is fairly spendy, you want to make sure and get it right, if you follow these instructions you will :lewis:

Here We Go: I just copied Accurate Molds Tolerances here, and added .452 as example. Make sure you Read and understand this!

I want an "as cast" diameter as close as I can get to .452".

I have a diameter tolerance window of .002" for my molds.
When ordering a diameter such as .452", you can select:

  • Positive tolerance (+.002/-.000) means the diameter will be AT LEAST .452" But could be as much as .454
  • Negative tolerance (+.000/-.002) means the diameter will be AT MOST .452" but could be as small as .450
  • Centered tolerance (+/- .001) means as close as possible to .452" Could be .451, .452, .453


Positive tolerance is usually desirable for driving bands.
Negative tolerance is usually best for bore ride noses or any application where a certain diameter cannot be exceeded and a sizing die won't be used on that portion of the bullet.
Centered tolerance might be desirable when powder coating, and tapered designs.

Using "Special Notes" on the online order form, you can refine your diameter request for bore ride, body diameter, whatever, to the 4th decimal place. Ordering to the half thousandth does not ensure precision to the half thousandth, it only helps you communicate the desired diameter range within that .002" window.

My mold cavities are actually turned to +/-.0001" tolerance, but I cannot guarantee resultant casting tolerance closer than .002" because of casting variables such as pour technique and temperature, mold block temperature, purity of alloy, etc.

When you get to the Tolerance Part, you Put the Diameter in that you KNOW you need to have. There is a “Drop down“ Bar next to that, When Click on it, you will see the 3 options. The Top option is PLUS Tolerance, the middle option is CENTERED Tolerance, and the Bottom option is NEGATIVE Tolerance

For example: Here you can see i am ordering .452 Diameter, using the PLUS Tolerance Option
3fL2wQY.jpg
 
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I am considering a 50 cal. mould for my 50 cal. 1/48" twist since I saw how well your 1/48" renegade shoots. I have a LEE REAL 360 gr? mould that never shot good in my 1/28" Encore, , , for some reason , it never shot well. I doubt it will shoot well in my 50 cal. Hawken 48" twist.
 
I am considering a 50 cal. mould for my 50 cal. 1/48" twist since I saw how well your 1/48" renegade shoots. I have a LEE REAL 360 gr? mould that never shot good in my 1/28" Encore, , , for some reason , it never shot well. I doubt it will shoot well in my 50 cal. Hawken 48" twist.

The only Lee R.E.A.L. i have tested is the little 250 Grain .50 Cal, and it was one if the Worst shooting bullets i have ever Shot. The heavier 360 Grain should be better? I am not a Fan of the Lee R.E.A.L.’s
 
I am considering a 50 cal. mould for my 50 cal. 1/48" twist since I saw how well your 1/48" renegade shoots. I have a LEE REAL 360 gr? mould that never shot good in my 1/28" Encore, , , for some reason , it never shot well. I doubt it will shoot well in my 50 cal. Hawken 48" twist.
I own all the Lee REAL moulds. There's a good reason they stay cold.
 
That may explain it . I do have a Hawken 50 cal. muzzleloader barrel . It shoots ok but likely would shoot better if not for my eyes. What mould would be good for a 50 cal. 1/48" twist? I ask cause I would like to shoot bullets out of it for 2 reasons. I have a bear tag coming in a few years and , , well, ,, I think I just want to shoot conicals for a change.
 
That may explain it . I do have a Hawken 50 cal. muzzleloader barrel . It shoots ok but likely would shoot better if not for my eyes. What mould would be good for a 50 cal. 1/48" twist? I ask cause I would like to shoot bullets out of it for 2 reasons. I have a bear tag coming in a few years and , , well, ,, I think I just want to shoot conicals for a change.

This would be my 1st Choice, Accurate Molds 50-415i and simply follow the above Directions to order it
http://www.accuratemolds.com/bullet_detail.php?bullet=50-415I
7jP2MN1m.png


For a Stock Mold, I say the Lyman Plains .50 Cal, I have proven this Bullet OVER & OVER, all the way out to near 300 Yards in the 1:48 Twist, This is a DARN GOOD Bullet, and usually easy to Find as it‘s a Stock Lyman Bullet Mold, BUT with current World affairs you can’t find much of anything in Stock.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1010237868
 
I would second Lewis's choice of bullet molds, the Accurate mold has a very generous Meplat that would create a nice wound channel on a bear or deer. Accurate has updated there website that makes ordering a mold a little simpler than before.
 
Well here I go I just bought a TC HAWKEN cap lock in 50 cal and talked to Jason at Rice barrel and ordered a 45 cal fast twist 32" drop in barrel for it. Jason said the bore is .451 and grove is .458. I have owned muzzleloaders for over 50 years BUT only one cap lock my first an underhammer which is long gone all the rest were and are flintlock ( PA. hunter) I have only shot a few maxi ball back in the 70s so i want to order an ACCURATE MOLD (450-340i). I cast my own bullets for COWBOY ACTION SHOOTING and those bullets are .002 over grove dia. but they are propelled down the barrel by the black powder from the rear. The cap and ball pistols size the ball when you load and are .005 larger than cylinder to start so they cut the ball for a good seal and give more surface area for accuracy
Finally my question what is the rule of thumb for the dia. of the bullet mold and then what dia do I size them to?
 
Well here I go I just bought a TC HAWKEN cap lock in 50 cal and talked to Jason at Rice barrel and ordered a 45 cal fast twist 32" drop in barrel for it. Jason said the bore is .451 and grove is .458. I have owned muzzleloaders for over 50 years BUT only one cap lock my first an underhammer which is long gone all the rest were and are flintlock ( PA. hunter) I have only shot a few maxi ball back in the 70s so i want to order an ACCURATE MOLD (450-340i). I cast my own bullets for COWBOY ACTION SHOOTING and those bullets are .002 over grove dia. but they are propelled down the barrel by the black powder from the rear. The cap and ball pistols size the ball when you load and are .005 larger than cylinder to start so they cut the ball for a good seal and give more surface area for accuracy
Finally my question what is the rule of thumb for the dia. of the bullet mold and then what dia do I size them to?

AWESOME Stuff!! For Target i prefer my Bullets to “Bore/Land Ride” I size them so they just “Kiss” the Rifling on the Way down, My Thumb and index Finger on the Range Rod is all that’s needed to push them Down.

For a Hunting Bullet i prefer a Much Snugger Fit, I want to know that my Bullet will stay seated firmly on the Powder Charge, a good Rule of Thumb is .002 Over Bore Diameter with a Pure Lead Bullet, .001 over with 1-40 Alloy. This really depends on the Bore? They are each a Bit different in their Needs. My advice is to Spend the Money and buy an Adjustable Sizer Die, This way you can size whatever you want/need? They are expensive, But WELL worth it :lewis: I chose Hankins Due to them being Stainless Steel, I lube my Lead Bullets before Sizing (IMPORTANT that you do this!) I use RCBS Case Lube 2 and an RCBS Lube Pad (Same as you use for Brass Cartridge Cases) RCBS Case Lube 2 is a Water base Lube, It is IMPORTANT that you clean the Die Thoroughly, and Lubricate with a Rust preventative (a good gun oil) Before Storing away. This is PRECISELY why i went with The Stainless Steel Hankins Adjustable Sizer, Stainless is less prone to Rust/Corrosion
 
Thank you for your help. Question if you have a.451 bore and size to .451-.452 then when you shoot it what keeps the Bullet from stripping the rifling?
 
Believe it or not your bullet will become a little shorter upon firing because its going to expand and fill the grooves just like it was a piece of putty.
 
Yes the wad protects the base , the base steers the bullet like a rudder would steer a boat. Damage the base and the bullet is still going down range but not may not hit the intended target.
 
Why dont more bore size bullet shooters use gas checks? I have been looking at gc molds but like everything else checks are out of stock, although they dont seem too hard to make.
 
Here are some Lyman Goulds that I put some homemade checks on approximately 15 years ago , also done several with Lyman 457193. Quite frankly I don't remember it being much improvement but back then I was happy with a 3" group at 100 yards because I'm a hunter and was also using a 45 caliber Omega that had the QLA which may have caused in own set of issues. May try it again sometime but those wool wads go down the barrel so easy with less fuss.
 

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Here are some Lyman Goulds that I put some homemade checks on approximately 15 years ago , also done several with Lyman 457193. Quite frankly I don't remember it being much improvement but back then I was happy with a 3" group at 100 yards because I'm a hunter and was also using a 45 caliber Omega that had the QLA which may have caused in own set of issues. May try it again sometime but those wool wads go down the barrel so easy with less fuss.
I was thinking more of molds specifically for checks. I didnt even think of putting them on the goulds. Did you buy a check maker? They seem like i could make a punch and cup to make my own right at home.
 
No, I used a hole puncher to make the Aluminum can disc then placed them in my Lyman sizer with die installed don't remember exact size then used a top punch and give them a little push to make the cup. It took a little experimenting but before you knew I was making several. I will have to look but I may still have some of the disc made to tell what size punch I was using. It didn't hurt that I was car pooling with a machinist at the time and he made me different size top punches, even made me a couple sizer dies.
 
I'm sure you could use bullets specifically designed for checks but all the molds for 45 I had were all plain base so I improvised.
 

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