peep sight alignment to bore center line importance?

[Browndogz]

I am changing a couple of peep sights (FP sight) on my Knight DE .52 and on a White Whitetail (Lyman). My question is my aperture is to the right of my bore center line. How import and is this for good shooting? As I change my sights I could work to change my weld and cheep position. I am good for 8 of 10 in a pie plate at 100 but don't have my opportunity to stretch it much beyond that range.

 

[FredB]

I think if you are trying to hit the X-ring at 600yds, it might make a difference. If you are going for pie-plate/minute-of-deer accuracy at reasonable hunting ranges, I think the windage adjustment on the rear peep should be all you need. I would suggest you mount it as is, and zero at 100yds. Then shoot patterns at 50, and see if it shifts left or right any significant amount.

 

[sabotloader]

I am changing a couple of peep sights (FP sight) on my Knight DE .52 and on a White Whitetail (Lyman). My question is my aperture is to the right of my bore center line. How import and is this for good shooting? As I change my sights I could work to change my weld and cheep position. I am good for 8 of 10 in a pie plate at 100 but don't have my opportunity to stretch it much beyond that range.

My question would be - is your front sight movable left/right? If it is I would suggest you center your peep and move the front sight left/right to get the closest straight line alignment with the bore as you can.

 

[Idaholewis]

Is this what you are talking about? This Peep Aperture is to the Right of center. The fix for this (if it bothers you?) is to Drift the Front sight opposite slightly to bring the Peep to center. I prefer to center my Front sight perfectly in the barrel, And let my Peep windage “Fall where it May” Unless it is REALLY extreme and i was out of Adjustment. My Dad has an Old .54 Cal TC Renegade barrel that has a Noticeable right bend in it (i have 1 identical to it as well) The Tang peep has no choice but to be off center to correct for it. Unless you don’t mind a Front sight Hanging way out to one side or the other. One of them “Is what it is” Things. Different loads will change this, ESPECIALLY Lead Hardness!!!

And here is a MUCH more extreme example, This Peep Aperture is FAR to the Left of center (Super hard Alloy bullets Caused this) If i were to keep this Load, and i wanted the Peep in the Center i would Obviously have to Drift the Front sight.

 

[Browndogz]

That is exactly what I am talking about. I will see if I can "correct" it with practice because is bugs, if not happy to know it can be ok. Then to the range with the .451 (after I get a bullet issue figured out) and the Knight .52 ( which is what I expect to hunt).

I am out of my cast and walking boot and looking fwd to being able to get on the exercise bike and and treadmill and get out for late elk.

 

[Idaholewis]

Other than being unsightly it doesn’t hurt a thing. The bottom Extreme pic i posted above is my Lyman Great Plains Hunter 1:32 Twist .54 Cal, I was trying some HARD (Wheel Weight Hard) BIG 650 Grain Paper Patch bullets in it when i took this pic to show how much it can effect Sight adjustment, With Pure lead, or even 1-40 Alloy my Aperture is near centered, but when i shot the BIG Heavy HARD bullets they were Way to the Right, and off the Target, My Group was REALLY good though, But it required a fairly major sight adjustment to get Zero. That pic was taken after i had adjusted the Sight and was Zero at 100 yards with the Big HARD bullets. I didn’t keep that Load, i went back to a much Softer Alloy (1-40 which is 8.5 BHN, New Wheel Weight Hardness is estimated at 12.5 BHN, and Aged Wheel Weight is estimated at 14 BHN) After switching back to 1-40 Alloy my Peep is back to Center, or very close to it.

I’m not saying this is your case, I obviously don’t know what your bullet hardness is? My point being, Lead Hardness can make a BIG BIG difference in Bullet impact.

 

[Buzzard II]

If you are hitting what you are aiming at, don't worry about it.

 

[Browndogz]

The sight is new so I don't know where its hitting. I stuck the bore sighter and noticed it which prompted the question. Then while looking at .451 bullets allowed the time to wonder about it.

 

[reelamin]

Bore alignment with your sights is a critical element to long range shooting. It can be eliminated with sight adjustment. The more sight adjustment is less precise and predictable movement due to the sights moving in an arc instead of vertical or horizontal. The fix with an optic is super easy but would require some serious gun work with iron sights. How important is determined on how precise you want to be, but usually this is not a factor unless shooting very precise targets, longer ranges, and or an inaccurate gun. For me precise is .25 MOA or less, longer range +500yds, inaccurate +1 MOA.

In order to determine if your sights are actually not in line with your bore is pretty easy if you have an accurate gun...not so if you don't but can still be done. This will also tell you if your scope/sights are tracking true or not. Usually the quickest way to tell is shoot a 100yd target with true level lines on it. Hang a large sheet of clean paper. I use 4' wide paper rolls and just cut a square, and you can get this at any craft store or amazon. Get the thicker paper not thin...otherwise it tears easy and is just a pain to deal with.

I use a bubble level and make mark a line in the center and vertical across it. I just use a magic marker so I can see it with my spotter/scope. My horizontal line is usually well below the middle because I always make a vertical adjustment. Mark or have your aiming point exact center on the line junction and shoot a group. If your gun is hyper accurate (.5" or less for me) you can get away with a single shot to adjusting but I then verify with a group. Aim exact at junction with cross hairs (optic) perfectly on your drawn lines. After the first shot/group make a large (Full turn optic 16-18"/two feet irons) sight adjustment in one direction. Shoot another group/shot with the exact same aiming point/aligment. You will see instantly if or how far off your sight to bore alignment is with the second group. Draw another line from the fist shot/group center to the second shot/group center.

To correct it with a scope is easy. Just hold/lock the rifle in position with the same aiming point and the cross hairs exactly on the original lines. I just put sand bags on my fore end/barrel against the rest and same for butt stock. Loosen the scope and turn it until the vertical is perfectly in line with the offset line you just drew and tighten back down. Verify with some more shots and adjust as needed. Then attach your bubble level to your scope or rifle and your sights/bore are in line.

To correct the most precise way with irons would require an actual sight movement on a arc. So if you had a round receiver you could have the base holes off set or drill new receive holes, and if flat has to be the round barrel sight moved. The problem would b...how much?? You could lean the rifle over from the original vertical until the sights are lined up and measure, but maybe there is a math formula (sure there is but have to find it) to determine how much it needs moved. Just remember it has to move on an arc...flat will not solve your problem. Also, move rear sight the direction of your second group and front sight opposite direction.

Hope the info helps.

 

[Browndogz]

I am changing a couple of peep sights (FP sight) on my Knight DE .52 and on a White Whitetail (Lyman). My question is my aperture is to the right of my bore center line. How import and is this for good shooting? As I change my sights I could work to change my weld and cheep position. I am good for 8 of 10 in a pie plate at 100 but don't have my opportunity to stretch it much beyond that range.

My question would be - is your front sight movable left/right? If it is I would suggest you center your peep and move the front sight left/right to get the closest straight line alignment with the bore as you can.

Damn, now I like that idea, I am thinking about moding a Lyman 17 that would work "beauty".

 

[Browndogz]

Bore alignment with your sights is a critical element to long range shooting. It can be eliminated with sight adjustment. The more sight adjustment is less precise and predictable movement due to the sights moving in an arc instead of vertical or horizontal. The fix with an optic is super easy but would require some serious gun work with iron sights. How important is determined on how precise you want to be, but usually this is not a factor unless shooting very precise targets, longer ranges, and or an inaccurate gun. For me precise is .25 MOA or less, longer range +500yds, inaccurate +1 MOA.

In order to determine if your sights are actually not in line with your bore is pretty easy if you have an accurate gun...not so if you don't but can still be done. This will also tell you if your scope/sights are tracking true or not. Usually the quickest way to tell is shoot a 100yd target with true level lines on it. Hang a large sheet of clean paper. I use 4' wide paper rolls and just cut a square, and you can get this at any craft store or amazon. Get the thicker paper not thin...otherwise it tears easy and is just a pain to deal with.

I use a bubble level and make mark a line in the center and vertical across it. I just use a magic marker so I can see it with my spotter/scope. My horizontal line is usually well below the middle because I always make a vertical adjustment. Mark or have your aiming point exact center on the line junction and shoot a group. If your gun is hyper accurate (.5" or less for me) you can get away with a single shot to adjusting but I then verify with a group. Aim exact at junction with cross hairs (optic) perfectly on your drawn lines. After the first shot/group make a large (Full turn optic 16-18"/two feet irons) sight adjustment in one direction. Shoot another group/shot with the exact same aiming point/aligment. You will see instantly if or how far off your sight to bore alignment is with the second group. Draw another line from the fist shot/group center to the second shot/group center.

To correct it with a scope is easy. Just hold/lock the rifle in position with the same aiming point and the cross hairs exactly on the original lines. I just put sand bags on my fore end/barrel against the rest and same for butt stock. Loosen the scope and turn it until the vertical is perfectly in line with the offset line you just drew and tighten back down. Verify with some more shots and adjust as needed. Then attach your bubble level to your scope or rifle and your sights/bore are in line.

To correct the most precise way with irons would require an actual sight movement on a arc. So if you had a round receiver you could have the base holes off set or drill new receive holes, and if flat has to be the round barrel sight moved. The problem would b...how much?? You could lean the rifle over from the original vertical until the sights are lined up and measure, but maybe there is a math formula (sure there is but have to find it) to determine how much it needs moved. Just remember it has to move on an arc...flat will not solve your problem. Also, move rear sight the direction of your second group and front sight opposite direction.

Hope the info helps.

Reel, thanks for the great read.