Pure Lead VS 1-20 Alloy Weight

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I decided to join the fun and compare my new cast 54 REAL 40:1 bullets vs. pure lead. My weights were not as consistant. I had to average 4 bullets to get an accurate read. Right on nose, as predicted!
 

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I tried to move far enough back to hide the defects. Darn camera makes them look even worse! I need practice casting.
 
I tried to move far enough back to hide the defects. Darn camera makes them look even worse! I need practice casting.

:roll: This made me Laugh!! As I know EXACTLY what you mean

Casting HIGH Quality Bullets is something that took me some Time, and Dedication to Learn. It did NOT Come Easy. I actually Came REALLY Close to Giving up on it, and Buying Bullets. If you will Follow my Casting Stuff on here, You will get it Down in no Time. Feel free to Ask ANY questions, This is why i asked for this Sub Forum a Few Years ago, To help people Learn it, Share tips & Tricks, Etc. :lewis:
 
One question then, how to monitor temperature. Is a thermometer a good idea for the lead pot?

Or else , is there a practical device device to measure both the mold and lead temperature? Like a hand held IR temperature gun I see medical staff using?
 
This is what I use to measure the temperature of the lead. I like it around 750 degrees. But anywhere between 700-800 is ok. Google it and shop around.
Lyman® 2867793 - Casting Thermometer
 
One question then, how to monitor temperature. Is a thermometer a good idea for the lead pot?

Or else , is there a practical device device to measure both the mold and lead temperature? Like a hand held IR temperature gun I see medical staff using?

I don’t worry about the Mold, You can actually have a Mold Drilled for a “Probe” Which is some sort of Thermometer Setup? This allows you to Monitor the Mold Temp. NOE Offers to Drill for Probe with their Molds. For the EXTREME PICKY, I can DEFINITELY understand it, A mold can Obviously lose Heat, and OVERHEAT Depending on Casting Speed, Alloy Temp Etc. This is where you get “Frosty” Bullets From Over Heating, Little Oxide Blisters, Etc. But FACT is, i Feel it’s TOTALLY unnecessary to Go to those Measures (Probe in the Mold) BIG DEAL if your Bullets are a Bit Frosty, it hurts NOTHING, As well as the Little Oxide Blisters, They Hurt NOTHING! The Important part is getting GOOD Mold Fillout, with SHARP Bullet Bases, That’s where it’s at!! :lewis:

I do like a Good Quality Lead Thermometer to Keep Track of my Lead/Alloy Temp. Lyman and RCBS Both Make a Lead Thermometer, But my Advice is to get the one from Rotometals, They are an RCBS Thermometer without the Name, and Extra Price Tag of the Lyman and RCBS Name Brand
https://www.rotometals.com/lead-bullet-casting-thermometer-6/
 
This is what I use to measure the temperature of the lead. I like it around 750 degrees. But anywhere between 700-800 is ok. Google it and shop around.
Lyman® 2867793 - Casting Thermometer

Thank you, I ordered one for $40 plus ship. It is a little painful. but; it is not like I had to get everything at one time.

Edit: Oh darn, I did find the Rotometal model and they claim it was a little better (RCBS generic). I moved to fast on the Lyman.

2nd edit: I requested to cancel the Lyman. If or when that is confirmed, I will go with Rotometal generic.

3rd Edit: I was able to cancel the Lyman and got the RCBS. It maybe did not matter.
 
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Another question: I had done a little casting in the past. My other molds are iron and I though I did better. Or I was less aware? The Lee is aluminum. Is it easier to work with iron? It seemed the Lee lost temp very quickly. It could have been me - I had a problem maintaining a steady pace. The Lee mold was very low cost. I would have little regrets setting that aside, if the Lyman GP was better to work with. That and Lewis' recommendation on the bullet has me asking if it could be a better all around.
 
Thank you, I ordered one for $40 plus ship. It is a little painful. but; it is not like I had to get everything at one time.

Edit: Oh darn, I did find the Rotometal model and they claim it was a little better (RCBS generic). I moved to fast on the Lyman.

2nd edit: I requested to cancel the Lyman. If or when that is confirmed, I will go with Rotometal generic.

All good, i have the Lyman and it works AWESOME, Sounds like you got a Decent deal on it :lewis:
 
Another question: I had done a little casting in the past. My other molds are iron and I though I did better. Or I was less aware? The Lee is aluminum. Is it easier to work with iron? It seemed the Lee lost temp very quickly. It could have been me - I had a problem maintaining a steady pace. The Lee mold was very low cost. I would have little regrets setting that aside, if the Lyman GP was better to work with. That and Lewis' recommendation on the bullet has me asking if it could be a better all around.

Aluminum Bullet Molds are Something I Despise, and My BIGGEST Regret in the Hobby of Casting. A good Steel Mold is FAR AND AWAY More Durable, Forgiving than an Aluminum Mold, The 2 Materials Shouldn’t even be used in the Same Sentence, NO COMPARISON. I consider a Steel Mold a “LIFETIME” Mold, Whereas an Aluminum Mold to me is “THROW AWAY” That is my Feelings on the 2 Materials. I have No Experience with Brass, I have never Casted with a Brass Bullet Mold. Aluminum is EASY/FAST to get up to Temp, an Iron/Steel Mold takes SUBSTANTIALLY Longer to get to Optimum Casting Temp, But it will Also “Hold” it’s Temperature MUCH Better/Longer than Aluminum. The ONLY reason i Will Purchase an Aluminum Bullet Mold is If it’s REALLY Cheap (Lee) Or i have No other Choice.
 
Lee molds are cheap and easy to toss ,but they have a use in casting .My target /long range boolits are steel cause I need all the help I can get ,but Lee aluminum gets me by for plinking and round ball however NOE and Accurate are a great choice for my serious hunting boolits and aluminum fits my budget and none of the critters hit lived to complain :elmer:
 
Is casting your own bullets sort of a normal progression with muzzleloader shooters after they have been doing it for a while?
 
Is casting your own bullets sort of a normal progression with muzzleloader shooters after they have been doing it for a while?
Thats pretty well a person by person decision id say . How well do you like muzzleloading ?? How much do you shoot ?? Are bullet types your interested in readily available to buy ot even available especially in a lead composition usefull to You ?? Those things can only be determined by You . Do you mind web purchase and shipping costs for bought bullets ?? What about equipment costs to cast ?? Only you can answer all this for YOU . Currently i buy them but this may change this summer .
 
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Thats a pretty person by person decision id say . How well do you like muzzleloading ?? How much do you shoot ?? Are bullet types your interested in readily available to buy ot even available ?? Those things can only be determined by You . Do you mind web purchase and shipping costs for bought bullets . What about equipment costs to cast ?? Only you can answer all this for YOU . Currently i buy them but this may change this summer .
True. If i didnt have the $ (and room to do it) to get started i probly wouldnt be casting. If i had kids i would give it a 2nd thought as it can be hazardous. It would be a lot easier to just buy the bullets you want but i do enjoy making my own and tinkering with every aspect of each shot that i can.
 
Is casting your own bullets sort of a normal progression with muzzleloader shooters after they have been doing it for a while?

It is a useful skill for more than muzzle loaders. I started with a propane torch heating lead in a dipper. I guess today you can find supplies for almost any old odd ball gun. I think the personality of a person who enjoys muzzle loading is the type who will tinker and reload for many other odd ball old guns. If you are just starting out, then you maybe surprised at all what is out there.
 
When I purchased my first m-l, a flintlock longrifle in 1971, there were very few choices for pre-cast, or manufactured bullets/ balls available for someone to buy.

So casting your own balls kinda just went with the territory. It was something you were expected to do.

This is how I got started....

Dixie Gun Works 0.445" scissors mold
1.5 qt. el cheapo aluminum saucepan
S.S. restaurant serving spoon for ladle
Homemade pine slab grips on ladle
Spoon bent with pliers to form spout
Large diagonal pliers to cut sprues
25 # bag 0.458" lead buckshot
Old bath towel to drop cast balls on
My mom's gas kitchen stove
Exhaust fan in side wall of row house kitchen

That's it. That simplistic set of tools cast balls that on my best day allowed me to shoot a 0.75", 5-shot group at 100 yards, offhand, with a .45 caliber flintlock longrifle that had a 40" long × 13/16" straight octagon barrel.

My eyesight sucks now, and it wasn't much better at 19 when I shot the 3/4" group. The barrel was the key, along with a well tuned flintlock, and a properly installed single trigger with a crisp let off.

For me, there is something Zen-like to casting when you get into the routine. Pay attention to the details, which become second nature, and just relax, forget about all of the world's bull@%&_, and let the casting flow.
 
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