Scope Lapping??

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I have been putting on scopes for years and have never lapped the rings, and have never had one fail on me either. That being said, now that I am having a custom smokeless rifle built, the builder said he never puts on a scope without lapping the rings first. So, now I am worried about the scopes that I currently have on my other guns, particularly those with heavy recoil (I have quite a few of those). Is the Wheeler scope lapping kit what you would recommend? It is really all I have seen out there. Any feedback is appreciated.
 
I have that kit. I used to lap the rings every time I mounted a scope. Then about 5 years ago just stopped. I’ve noticed no difference. Works for me but I am not a long range precision shooter or an expert.
 
Lapping prevents the bite HC mentions. Lapping is probably better for the scope as it prevents distortion, but I doubt it does anything to prevent slipping. The increased contact area between scope and ring is probably no more effective than the bite at preventing scope slip under recoil.
Talley recommends not lapping their aluminum rings.
Valve lapping compound and a 1" piece of round stock work as well as manufactured kits. The first time you do lap, there is a good chance you will be amazed at how far out of line the rings are.
 
I use a dab of spray adhesive applied with a Q tip to the bottom ring halves when mounting my scopes and torque cap screws to 20 in. lbs. No slipping and no ring marks so far with 7 done this way.
 
I Lap mine if Not using High End Expensive Rings or the Burris Z Rings with the Nylon Inserts. I roughen the Nylon Inserts with emery cloth to prevent slipping. Nobody Likes “Ring Rash” marks.
 
Another thing that some say works.....put one drop of Loctite in the bottom ring half before setting the scope in. You need to get your front to rear positioning right first. Use a piece of tape to mark it then take the scope out. Add your drop of loctite to each bottom ring and assemble.

Green loctite is very thin and the weakest if you want to try it. Its made for preassembled parts. So it wicks into threads.
 
I have never lapped rings. I have never had slippage problems with scopes. Everything that makes contact with another part including screws, rings and scope all get coated with blue Loctite at contact points. No need to fix what ain't broke.
 
I lap most of the time, even rings like Seekins, Hawkins and Nightforce. I have lapped and then bedded rings with JB weld in the past, but no longer do. I do bed my bases though, which is another subject. Not really sure there is a right or wrong answer to this. It really comes down to what each of our preferences are.

I like using Talley's on my hunting rifles, but have had a couple sets that really marred two fairly expensive scopes. I know Talley says don't lap, but I will continue to do so on theirs.
 
Never lapped rings and never had a need for it. That said, I find that a substantial amount of people install rings incorrectly. Rings should be mounted individually on the bases and pulled as far forward as possible before the locking screws are tightened. Only then should the scope be mounted in the rings. This method insures that both rings are transferring the recoil to the bases equally. Obviously, every time the the scope is removed it should be pushed forward as it's remounted. There is substantial fore and aft play between rings and bases particularly when combining different brands or using a weaver ring with a picatinny base.
 
The best way to get maximum misalignment of the rings is to tighten them down on the base first. If you do that, you increase the likely hood of marring the scope. This is the reason behind lapping.
The best compromise is to put the rings snug but not tight on a rod, mount them to the base pushing them forward, and tighten them down to the base. This is a compromise several directions, but it is less likely to mar the scope while at the same time impeding movement under recoil.
If you have not gotten maximum misalignment by tightening the rings to the base first, you have either not mounted many scopes or have been blessed by the gods.
 
I lap all scope rings that I install.Valve grinding compound is to coarse btw.
Upon lapping I’ll mark the top/bottom halves with an electric engraver.
ie: rear halves on the left side gets two small dots on each half. Front gets one small dot on each left half.
Once lapped they become a trued set.
If one has never lapped rings you’ll be surprised at the areas that show up that were uneven with the axis.
I do use the Wheeler kit.
For directions on how to perform it search the guy who says” And thanks for your business” . LOL

FAT torque wrench a necessary item IMHO too.

And I guess I’ve been blessed by the optics gods.
Foundations start from the bottom up. Never seen otherwise.
If the bases are out of height thus the bedding or shims may be needed. If not in line that’s another issue.
If either are out of axis no matter what tightening pattern , it will create uneven pressure on the tube once rings are tightened.
I’d ask tightening a trued picatinny rail then bases 2nd and then rings causes “maximum misalignment”. It’s not my belief.
Once the rings are on then lapped to true.

Another question is how one would install a set like Leupold Back Country one piece rings / mounts without tightening the bases first?

I learned a great deal about scopes and mounting from Mr. Thomas of Premier Reticles many years ago. An unquestionable scope guru.
 
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The best way to get maximum misalignment of the rings is to tighten them down on the base first. If you do that, you increase the likely hood of marring the scope. This is the reason behind lapping.
The best compromise is to put the rings snug but not tight on a rod, mount them to the base pushing them forward, and tighten them down to the base. This is a compromise several directions, but it is less likely to mar the scope while at the same time impeding movement under recoil.
If you have not gotten maximum misalignment by tightening the rings to the base first, you have either not mounted many scopes or have been blessed by the gods.
When you tighten the mounts to the bases they will be aligned with the dovetails in the bases. The only choice you have is to insure that both rings are pushed all the forward against their respective recoil lugs. You don't seriously think that the scope tube is going to hold the rings at any angle other than in alignment with the dove tails do you?
 
alternate, come back and talk to me about it after you have mounted a few thousand scopes and have some idea of what you are talking about.
 
I use an older Sinclair lapping bar, as you are lapping you can see how much it really is needed
As mentioned, Burris rings with the plastic insert are an easy alternative
 

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