Should I try?

[SparkPlug]

Got my 1st BP pistol over the weekend. It's a Pietta 1858 New Model Sherrif. I also got my .45 mold for my rifle. The mold casts the 440 RB and a .452 Lee REAL at 200 grains.

I am interested in having a heavier conical in the revolver on occasion. Some research makes me think conicals can shoot from it. The back bands ride perfect in the cylinder with a couple thousandths extra for the driving band. And the nose of the bullet almost fits in the breech of the barrel.

Have any of you tried these? What are things I should watch out for?

 

[smokepolehall]

Got my 1st BP pistol over the weekend. It's a Pietta 1858 New Model Sherrif. I also got my .45 mold for my rifle. The mold casts the 440 RB and a .452 Lee REAL at 200 grains.

I am interested in having a heavier conical in the revolver on occasion. Some research makes me think conicals can shoot from it. The back bands ride perfect in the cylinder with a couple thousandths extra for the driving band. And the nose of the bullet almost fits in the breech of the barrel.

Have any of you tried these? What are things I should watch out for?

I have a 1860 New Army .44 & i also am going to shoot the 200 gr .45 REAL bullets

 

[anonymouscowherd]

There is a 155gr SWC .452 bullet available Id like to try in my 1858

 

[michiganmuzzy]

There is a 155gr SWC .452 bullet available Id like to try in my 1858

I have molds, for my ROA, as small as 160gr but haven't shot any lighter than 180 so far. I have a kaido 200 mold that i need to cast a bunch with. Gotta send some to ninering when i do.

 

[smokepolehall]

I have molds, for my ROA, as small as 160gr but haven't shot any lighter than 180 so far. I have a kaido 200 mold that i need to cast a bunch with. Gotta send some to ninering when i do.

Yo put me on your list, will pay the samolians on shipping n the Kaido's. So far all i have tried has been .451 rb's n they were not accurate at 40 yds, not 35 yds. I have been shooting the .454 rb with better accuracy but still is not what i hope for

 

[anonymouscowherd]

Yo put me on your list, will pay the samolians on shipping n the Kaido's. So far all i have tried has been .451 rb's n they were not accurate at 40 yds, not 35 yds. I have been shooting the .454 rb with better accuracy but still is not what i hope for

I have read the ROA does best with 457 balls

My Uberti 1858 gives groups not much larger than my CZ75 out to 25 using 451s - considering the sights and my lack of super precision with non-rimfire handguns

 

[smokepolehall]

I have read the ROA does best with 457 balls

My Uberti 1858 gives groups not much larger than my CZ75 out to 25 using 451s - considering the sights and my lack of super precision with non-rimfire handguns

The crude sights i have on my 1860 i try to get no more than a 4" groups at 40 yds. The .451's for me i think were too small in dia. just did not seal well

 

[SparkPlug]

I have a 1860 New Army .44 & i also am going to shoot the 200 gr .45 REAL bullets

The load I worked up is 30gr T7 3F, a lubed was, then the 200gr REAL. I get about a 6" group at 40yds with my homemade caps. It tightens up a bit with CCIs.

 

[Jitterbug]

For round ball, I suspect .454 might work the best.

I’ve always been curious about conicals in C&B revolvers, but have never tried them. I’ve long looked at the Lee conical mold for the Ruger Old Army, but most reports seem to indicate rounds balls usually perform the best for plinking or target work.

Some report that loading conicals “straight” in a C&B cylinder can be a challenge. I‘m not sure that I can see this, depending upon how much excess clearance there is, in the chamber. If the conical is snug enough to prevent a chain fire, I don’t know how they could go in “crooked.”

Round balls (especially swaged- no sprue!) are kind of hard to load “crooked.”

 

[SparkPlug]

For round ball, I suspect .454 might work the best.

I’ve always been curious about conicals in C&B revolvers, but have never tried them. I’ve long looked at the Lee conical mold for the Ruger Old Army, but most reports seem to indicate rounds balls usually perform the best for plinking or target work.

Some report that loading conicals “straight” in a C&B cylinder can be a challenge. I‘m not sure that I can see this, depending upon how much excess clearance there is, in the chamber. If the conical is snug enough to prevent a chain fire, I don’t know how they could go in “crooked.”

Round balls (especially swaged- no sprue!) are kind of hard to load “crooked.”

The RB I use are .452 and are used for plinking and for my paper cartridges. When roaming the woods I carry it loaded with my above mentioned hunting load, and about 15 paper cartridges and caps incase I decide to do a little shooting while out.

The back bands on the Lee REAL are a perfect fit in my cylinders, with the driving band at .452, just like the RB. They are too large to attempt with a paper cartridge. But, are easily loaded with a small shooting bag. I can do a complete reload of all 6 in just over a minute (capping takes another 15 seconds using an inline capper).

 

[Ernbar]

It will be a good idea to modify the loading plunger a tad so the pointy bullet nose doesn’t get deformed since Pietta plungers are set up for round balls. There are a couple of good videos on Youtube showing how it’s done using a Dremel and grinding stone. I did it to my 60 Army and 51 Navy and it’s real easy. I will eventually do the same on my Remington.