Soft Touch rubberized stock finish

[Chick]

I have a Traditions Vortek SS with the Mossy Oak Soft Touch finish. Took the rifle out of the gun safe, and the stock finish was nothing but a sticky slimy mess. The whole forestock and buttstock was the same way. I could understand a few drops of Hoppes #9 on the comb, but there is not 1 square inch of the finish is not like this. Acetone took it off and Traditions says they will replace the stocks. Has anyone else experienced this or know why it happened?

 

[Old Smoke]

My inline is a CVA Accura V2. Had the same concern about the "rubbery" covering on the stock. CVA said they'd replace it no matter what, so I went ahead with it. Hope it never has that problem, but if it does I'm covered. Sounds like you are, too.

 

[Squeeze]

I have sprayed stocks with spray on bedliner. Maybe not as soft, but similar texture. Hoppe's, gun oil, etc does not affect it. If Traditions finish is affected by gun oil....well :d'oh!:

 

[Chick]

My understanding is the Soft Touch is used by several firearms manufactures, and even a camera company, and they all experience the problem. I don't know why it is even used. It is not needed. How did people make out with plain wood stocks, for so long? haha.

 

[Hntndad]

Same thing happened to my browning 3-1/2 gold nwtf shotshow. Just google duratouch coating and you'll have plenty of unhappy posts to read. Browning no longer had the matching camo stock. Sent me black. Sending it to northwesthydroprint. Stripping the action and barrel. Dipping in my choice of camo, placing a custom decal on the stock, clear coating and placing thier hydro-grip on the stock. $225. And they back thier work 100%.
Funny thing is I have other browning shotguns with same coating. The stocks all get cleaned with just soap and water. This was the only one in the safe that deteriorated. I wish I knew why myself.

 

[Chick]

If that is the hydro-dip you are considering, I have read a lot of issues with it, as well. They say it chips and peels, like old paint.

 

[Hntndad]

Hydro-dip is a company that manufactures water-transfer coating for 99% of the camo products you see. Firearms to coffee mugs. Just like paint on your car, if it's not protected with a clear it won't last long. There are companies out there that spend their entire time doing nothing but water-transfer. You can't make a good living if people are complaining or your spending most of your time fixing previous jobs. The good ones have little to no problems at all.
The soft touch coating, duratouch coating ect... is a clear, rubberized coating. Winchester/ browning had problems with this in the earlier applications. Not so much anymore. This is the first I've heard of cva or traditions having an issue. Like I said, I have had a problem with a browning. Since they can't make it right 100% or tell me why it happened. I'm going to have it fixed by one of the best in the business. I have others that get hunted just as much if not more. They get cleaned the same way (just wipe down with a little dawn dish soap and water. Then just wipe off with a damp towel). And they all get stored the same way. Only 1 (an earlier manufactured) had had this problem. I'm glad the company is taking care of this for the op. I wasn't as lucky
Hydro-grip is a rubber coating northwest hydroprint applies. I am being told by Scott that it was challenging at first, but he hasn't received the 1st complaint or return.

 

[Hntndad]

Last comment. If you enjoy camo equipment. Bows. Rifles. Scopes. Whatever. The fastest way to remove the finish is......Bug spray

 

[Chick]

I have heard about the bug spray, but the acetone took it off like water washes dirt off. I have camo'd 3 rifle stocks with Lauer Duracoat. Nothing affects that stuff, and it is hard as iron.

 

[Thompsl2]

I have a Traditions Vortek SS with the Mossy Oak Soft Touch finish. Took the rifle out of the gun safe, and the stock finish was nothing but a sticky slimy mess. The whole forestock and buttstock was the same way. I could understand a few drops of Hoppes #9 on the comb, but there is not 1 square inch of the finish is not like this. Acetone took it off and Traditions says they will replace the stocks. Has anyone else experienced this or know why it happened?

The exact same thing happened to mine and I was in search of replacement stocks! What is the contact information you used to contact Traditions?

 

[.45er]

And I thought I was the only one with this stock issue

My CVA .45 Apex stock had the same sticky problem...that's why I refinished it myself. I gave-up on removing it with solvents and took a stiff wire brush to it.

 

[michiganmuzzy]

And I thought I was the only one with this stock issue

My CVA .45 Apex stock had the same sticky problem...that's why I refinished it myself. I gave-up on removing it with solvents and took a stiff wire brush to it.

It looks so much nicer that way.

 

[11th Corps]

Related in a way.
I own a Remington Competition Master shotgun. It's an auto loader in 12 gauge.
It sat in my gun safe-controlled climate-for some time.
It has a synthetic stock.
The issue was the butt pad. It was a sticky mess. I contacted Remington and they sent me a new one.
I have read that storing the shotgun upside down might alleviate the issue.
One thing I am careful about now is using spray gun action cleaners. I don't buy any that are not marked as being "synthetic safe".

 

[derfhunter]

.45er,
I have an apex with the camo which is sticky. I took rubbing alcohol and removed the camo. It is now a light gray.
would you share how you finished your stock

 

[10gaugemag]

Last comment. If you enjoy camo equipment. Bows. Rifles. Scopes. Whatever. The fastest way to remove the finish is......Bug spray

Any aerosol as I believe it is the propellant used. I won't even spray aerosol bug spray while standing close to my truck.

 

[HC]

Here’s a neet idea.

Working on creating a faux wood finish on a black CVA Bobcat synthetic stock. Using alcohol ink. I still have to do another coat with the lighter color I bought to try to highlight the darker brown shown here. It's getting there, I think.
Before and after, so far. View attachment 18875View attachment 18876

 

[.45er]

.45er,
I have an apex with the camo which is sticky. I took rubbing alcohol and removed the camo. It is now a light gray.
would you share how you finished your stock

Sure. Let me check to see if I still have the paints I used and will post something on method.

Here are the actual paints I used on my Apex with my S.O.P
.

After I stripped-off all the original stock coating I gave it a base coat of premium (grey) primer. I used these three particular natural colors and applied then in very thin layers until I got the desired color. My goal was to get a weathered, dark walnut-like shade on the stock. Keep in mind the general approach to artwork is applying light colors over dark colors. I believe I started with a Black layer, then the Raw Umber then the Burnt Umber with a very light fine (400-600 grit) sanding between coats. Depending on how it looks after these 3 layers I would add additional layer(s) if needed to get the desired effect. You can also mix the colors in the last coat. Keep in mind that wood is not a solid color in nature. As you paint you want some of the previous layer to show through to give it depth and character. TIP: Since acrylics dry fast hand-brushed coats should be performed quickly to keep the layer consistent.

Finally to preserve the paint I applied 2 coats of the matte varnish. The matte vs. gloss finish will give you a more realistic wood look in the end as well as hide some subtle flaws or imperfection.

As with any paint job it’s wise to practice on painting something else before applying it to your stock. Good luck with your project.

 

[280Bravo]

I have a Traditions Vortek SS with the Mossy Oak Soft Touch finish. Took the rifle out of the gun safe, and the stock finish was nothing but a sticky slimy mess. The whole forestock and buttstock was the same way. I could understand a few drops of Hoppes #9 on the comb, but there is not 1 square inch of the finish is not like this. Acetone took it off and Traditions says they will replace the stocks. Has anyone else experienced this or know why it happened?

File a claim with BBB then they will fix it.

 

[phalanx]

Chick's post was back in 2017 and numerous manufacturers were having issues with the soft touch stuff. Traditions replaced mine sometime in 2016 and I've not had any problems with the replacement. They didn't want the bad ones back so I stripped and painted them. May get off my butt and try something better than Krylon this winter. I saw no reason to complain to the BBB since they stood behind the warranty.

 

[wild willy]

Sure. Let me check to see if I still have the paints I used and will post something on method.

Here are the actual paints I used on my Apex with my S.O.P
.

After I stripped-off all the original stock coating I gave it a base coat of premium (grey) primer. I used these three particular natural colors and applied then in very thin layers until I got the desired color. My goal was to get a weathered, dark walnut-like shade on the stock. Keep in mind the general approach to artwork is applying light colors over dark colors. I believe I started with a Black layer, then the Raw Umber then the Burnt Umber with a very light fine (400-600 grit) sanding between coats. Depending on how it looks after these 3 layers I would add additional layer(s) if needed to get the desired effect. You can also mix the colors in the last coat. Keep in mind that wood is not a solid color in nature. As you paint you want some of the previous layer to show through to give it depth and character. TIP: Since acrylics dry fast hand-brushed coats should be performed quickly to keep the layer consistent.

Finally to preserve the paint I applied 2 coats of the matte varnish. The matte vs. gloss finish will give you a more realistic wood look in the end as well as hide some subtle flaws or imperfection.

As with any paint job it’s wise to practice on painting something else before applying it to your stock. Good luck with your project.

.45er looks great.My Accura MR got sticky CVA sent me a new buttstock and forearm I want to remove the old finish and spray paint the old one.Any tips on getting the old finish off did you use any solvent to soften before you wire brushed.By hand or a wheel?