Stuck breech bolt on CVA in-line.

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guncrank1

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My second cousin brought me his wife in-line to remove a stuck breech plug
Of course the slot is FUBAR but then he brought to the guy who kbow.

What is the favorite soaking fuilded

This is a CVA
 
My second cousin brought me his wife in-line to remove a stuck breech plug
Of course the slot is FUBAR but then he brought to the guy who kbow.

What is the favorite soaking fuilded

This is a CVA
When you get it out and clean it up i have a tip for you . It'll never happen again , use permatex thread sealant with PTFE on the plug , Part # 80632 . Remove the oil on threads and put on the permatex . I fill the threads and with my finger remove the excess. Do the same with the female threads . Let it sit a couple days while it dries a bit . Remove it again and re-apply to the plug . This step is to ensure that the sealant has full coverage on all threads. Wipe off excess and reassemble . Youll never have a stuck plug again . Just snug is good . No fouling will ever reach the threads again . Use it every time you clean it.
 
When you get it out and clean it up i have a tip for you . It'll never happen again , use permatex thread sealant with PTFE on the plug , Part # 80632 . Remove the oil on threads and put on the permatex . I fill the threads and with my finger remove the excess. Do the same with the female threads . Let it sit a couple days while it dries a bit . Remove it again and re-apply to the plug . This step is to ensure that the sealant has full coverage on all threads. Wipe off excess and reassemble . Youll never have a stuck plug again . Just snug is good . No fouling will ever reach the threads again . Use it every time you clean it.
You purchace it in a auto parts store. IMO it is The Best for a breech plug bar none !!!
 
You purchace it in a auto parts store. IMO it is The Best for a breech plug bar none !!!
If the other 2 methods that the other gentlemen offered dont work i have a suggestion . Find a tig welder and weld a small socket to the plug . With wood blocks and a vise get ready to grunt..... Hope it doesnt come to that !!!
 
Not a breech plug but I have removed gun barrels by freezing in deep freeze for a couple hours then with a propane torch heat the outside of receiver for about 10-15 sec. it should expand the outer threads enough to break it loose. Just a thought.
 
Not a breech plug but I have removed gun barrels by freezing in deep freeze for a couple hours then with a propane torch heat the outside of receiver for about 10-15 sec. it should expand the outer threads enough to break it loose. Just a thought.
I have used that method on other stuck gun parts
 
Recently I succeeded in removing the original breech plug from my CVA Apollo for the first time since Service Merchandise sold the gun to me in 1990 without a breech plug tool.

Years after I bought the gun, I found the proper tool but the plug was by then too tight to remove with the poorly designed tool.

Recently I decided that I would attempt to upgrade the gun from ignition with #11 percussion caps to 209 shot shell primers. Although I’m not sure that I’ll find the conversion components, I know that I’ll have to remove the original breech plug to do so.

To remove the plug, first I fashioned a better removal tool by reshaping the business end of a half-inch hex shank cold chisel into a very fat (about 1/8” thick) slot-head, flat-tip bit to fit the cross-slot of the breech plug. With the hex shank, I can use an impact driver and half-inch socket to turn the tool.

A number of sources suggested that a 50:50 mix of acetone and ATF would provide the best penetrant to help loosen the plug. I planned to submerge the breech end of the barrel in a small reservoir of this mix that would be held in short length of capped PVC pipe.

But I abandoned this idea when I realized that acetone and ATF do not mix permanently and would quickly separate into the separate components within the PVC pipe. The acetone is the carrier for the ATF but it only serves that function while the two are in suspension or emulsified, whichever is the proper term.

Since the submergence in the PVC tube did not make sense, I plugged the nipple with black RTV; wrapped the nipple threads with Teflon tape; screwed the nipple into the breech plug; and then poured a couple tablespoons of the 50:50 mixture into the barrel. Over the next few days, I poured the liquid out of the barrel and remixed it by shaking the mixture inside a jar before pouring it back into the barrel. I had hoped to see sign of the mixture seeping by the breech plug threads but it did not happen.

Several other websources suggested applying heat to loosen the frozen plug. I tried an electric heat gun but couldn't get the breech plug area warmer than about 125° or at most 150°F. Next I tried a propane torch and reached for the impact driver when I breech area got to about 250°F. I clamped the barrel in the opposing wood jaws of a workmate-style platform, but the jaws did not hold the barrel tight enough to resist the torque of the impact driver and the plug would not come loose. (When the barrel turned in the jaws, both the front sight and under-barrel rod-containment ring came loose and will have to be repaired before I can use the gun again.)

Several days later I was ready again to apply greater heat and higher temperatures with the propane torch. To hold the barrel against the drive torque, I would use a bench-top, 5-inch machinist vise with jaws padded by old boot leather.

For no-hands torch holding, I opened the wood jaws of the workmate platform to grip the upright barrel at one end and the propane torch within the larger opening at the other end. After about 30 minutes, my non-contacting thermometer indicated that the breech plug area of the barrel was not going to exceed 600°F. The ATF inside the barrel never smoked but I could hear it popping inside at the muzzle opening.

I quickly tightened the receiver end of the barrel in the padded vise jaws on the flats of the hexagonal breech end of the barrel. Next I removed the nipple so that the end of my modified cold chisel would fit the cross slot of the breech plug.

After 30 years and then about 10 seconds with the cordless Milwaukee impact drive, the breech plug started to back out and, in a couple more seconds, the plug was finally out!
 
Recently I succeeded in removing the original breech plug from my CVA Apollo for the first time since Service Merchandise sold the gun to me in 1990 without a breech plug tool.

Years after I bought the gun, I found the proper tool but the plug was by then too tight to remove with the poorly designed tool.

Recently I decided that I would attempt to upgrade the gun from ignition with #11 percussion caps to 209 shot shell primers. Although I’m not sure that I’ll find the conversion components, I know that I’ll have to remove the original breech plug to do so.

To remove the plug, first I fashioned a better removal tool by reshaping the business end of a half-inch hex shank cold chisel into a very fat (about 1/8” thick) slot-head, flat-tip bit to fit the cross-slot of the breech plug. With the hex shank, I can use an impact driver and half-inch socket to turn the tool.

A number of sources suggested that a 50:50 mix of acetone and ATF would provide the best penetrant to help loosen the plug. I planned to submerge the breech end of the barrel in a small reservoir of this mix that would be held in short length of capped PVC pipe.

But I abandoned this idea when I realized that acetone and ATF do not mix permanently and would quickly separate into the separate components within the PVC pipe. The acetone is the carrier for the ATF but it only serves that function while the two are in suspension or emulsified, whichever is the proper term.

Since the submergence in the PVC tube did not make sense, I plugged the nipple with black RTV; wrapped the nipple threads with Teflon tape; screwed the nipple into the breech plug; and then poured a couple tablespoons of the 50:50 mixture into the barrel. Over the next few days, I poured the liquid out of the barrel and remixed it by shaking the mixture inside a jar before pouring it back into the barrel. I had hoped to see sign of the mixture seeping by the breech plug threads but it did not happen.

Several other websources suggested applying heat to loosen the frozen plug. I tried an electric heat gun but couldn't get the breech plug area warmer than about 125° or at most 150°F. Next I tried a propane torch and reached for the impact driver when I breech area got to about 250°F. I clamped the barrel in the opposing wood jaws of a workmate-style platform, but the jaws did not hold the barrel tight enough to resist the torque of the impact driver and the plug would not come loose. (When the barrel turned in the jaws, both the front sight and under-barrel rod-containment ring came loose and will have to be repaired before I can use the gun again.)

Several days later I was ready again to apply greater heat and higher temperatures with the propane torch. To hold the barrel against the drive torque, I would use a bench-top, 5-inch machinist vise with jaws padded by old boot leather.

For no-hands torch holding, I opened the wood jaws of the workmate platform to grip the upright barrel at one end and the propane torch within the larger opening at the other end. After about 30 minutes, my non-contacting thermometer indicated that the breech plug area of the barrel was not going to exceed 600°F. The ATF inside the barrel never smoked but I could hear it popping inside at the muzzle opening.

I quickly tightened the receiver end of the barrel in the padded vise jaws on the flats of the hexagonal breech end of the barrel. Next I removed the nipple so that the end of my modified cold chisel would fit the cross slot of the breech plug.

After 30 years and then about 10 seconds with the cordless Milwaukee impact drive, the breech plug started to back out and, in a couple more seconds, the plug was finally out!
Excellant !!! Will it be useable ???
 
I just got the 209 shot shell conversion parts today. The new plug threads in well, and I see no reason why it won't be a shooter.
I'll keep an aperture sight on the old CVA Apollo for Colorado so that I won't have to remove the scope from my newer CVA Kodiak for other states.
 

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