Tc scout loading problems

[Farmer bill]

Yesterday was my first time shooting my new tc scout with great planes bullets.

I'm new to muzzleloading but I've been looking around the forum for awhile. The issue I'm having is when I'm loading. I am using hornady great planes bullets made for a 50 cal. They are seating very hard at the muzzle. I have a short starter to start the bullet into the muzzle but it deforms the nose of the bullet(see pic). After they are started they go down fine. After messing with it for awhile I got them to load without to much deformation by using a flat wood part of the ball starter on the bullet and a few cross peen blacksmith hammer hits on the other side. I really don't want to bring that with when I'm hunting. Is there anything I can do to make the loading easier? Would using a rubber mallet work? Has anyone tried that? I had some bore butter with me but it was frozen so I couldn't try that to see if it would help.

I love this gun even with the messed up bullets it still hit a paper plate all 5 times at 33 paces. Would love to see what it could do with a properly loaded projectile!

 

[Idaholewis]

Sounds like you have a Tight Bore, The Hornady Great Plains Bullet is a Tapered design, The Nose end Band is a “Driving Band” it is the Largest diameter (About .510)

Do you have a Reloading Press? If so, i advise you to get a Lee .501 Push Through Bullet Sizer, Lube the Bullets WELL, and Push them through the Sizer Die Base First, since they have a Hollow Base You do NOT want to Damage the Base, The Bullet base is what Steers the Bullet

 

[Farmer bill]

Sounds like you have a Tight Bore, The Hornady Great Plains Bullet is a Tapered design, The Nose end Band is a “Driving Band” it is the Largest diameter (About .510)

Do you have a Reloading Press? If so, i advise you to get a Lee .501 Push Through Bullet Sizer, Lube the Bullets WELL, and Push them through the Sizer Die Base First, since they have a Hollow Base You do NOT want to Damage the Base, The Bullet base is what Steers the Bullet

I do not have a reloading press. I do have a turning lathe and a hydraulic press to make a resizing die if I have to. Is there a simpler way of doing things?

 

[Idaholewis]

I do not have a reloading press. I do have a turning lathe and a hydraulic press to make a resizing die if I have to. Is there a simpler way of doing things?

The next thing that comes to my mind is to Buy bullets from someone that Can/Will Size them for you. My 1st recommendation would be Bullshop Bullets, I would get his 460 Grain Bullets and Have him Size them, But first you should Ask him if he offers a “Sizing Pack”? This would be a Few Bullets (3-4) Different Sizes (.501, .502, .503, .504) This way you can Load Each size and find out what Loads best in your Rifle? THEN order a Box of His Bullets sized to the Number you need The one NEGATIVE about Bullshop Bullets is they Deal in “Snail Mail” You have to Contact them through Email, Send them a Check/Money Order. They are stil Old Fashion, and don’t seem to want to Change

https://bullshop.weebly.com/blackpowder.html[email protected]

I would get these, Lubed with his NASA Lube, Sized to fit your Bore
504 ~ MTN Mould ~ 460 NEX


My 2nd Choice would be No Excuses Bullets, You can order these Online, and this guy offers a Sizing Pack
https://www.muzzleloading-bullets.com/shop/https://www.muzzleloading-bullets.com/product/50-caliber-sizing-pack/

 

[Idaholewis]

If you are Set on Sticking with The Hornady Great Plains Bullets, Here is everything you need to Size them. Just remember to Lube the Bullets well before pushing them through as it makes it SO MUCH easier with Lead

Here is a Cheap Lee Hand Press
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1013017453
And here is a .501 Bullet Sizing Die & Push Rod
LEE BULLET SIZE KIT .501 DIAMETER - Graf & Sons

 

[MrTom]

I'm curious what powder he's shooting. Could powder fouling create such an tight fit if the bore is slightly tighter than usual. And how does the first round load? Is it that tight?

 

[Caniborrowsomeammo]

I do not have a reloading press. I do have a turning lathe and a hydraulic press to make a resizing die if I have to. Is there a simpler way of doing things?

Unless you enjoy making chips, and your time isn't valuable,
just get a resizing die and cheap press.
Maybe it's just me, I have tooling, lathe,, etc. and the only time I use it is if I need to make something that is urgent, unavailable, needs a quick repair, or unique.

 

[rusticbob]

Sounds like the rifle does not have the dreaded QLA ?

 

[alternate]

The resistance you feel at the muzzle is the bullet being engraved by the rifling. You can reduce this by sizing the bullet smaller but the easiest way around this is to use a 45 caliber bullet with a sabot.

 

[ported45]

The resistance you feel at the muzzle is the bullet being engraved by the rifling. You can reduce this by sizing the bullet smaller but the easiest way around this is to use a 45 caliber bullet with a sabot.

Agreed.

It has been years since I had my T/C Scout, but I could not get it to shoot lead (before I knew anything about over-powder wads) and I ended up shooting 300 xtps in sabots. It would touch bullet holes at 100 yards with FFg Goex 90 grains by volume.

 

[goco4game]

I do not have a reloading press. I do have a turning lathe and a hydraulic press to make a resizing die if I have to. Is there a simpler way of doing things?

Here's a low budget/low labor/redneck engineering partial help to your problem. Actually, what you're experiencing is pretty normal - having to give the bullet a smart rap (with the hand anyway) to get it started. I shot the Great Plains bullets for years, and they are very soft lead. Frankly, I never checked to see how much deformation was going on, but I'm sure it was significant, and they still grouped very well, 3” at 100 yards in my TC New Englander with peep sights.
I made a short starter out of 1/2" dowel, and cupped the end to closely conform to the bullet nose. Regular dowels are usually made from poplar wood, which is very soft and will get chewed up quickly by the rifling, so it's better if you can find an oak or similar hardwood at a woodworking store. Later, when I switched to harder bullets with wider meplats, I made a tip out of brass, which works really well.
And yes, I always do take along a rubber mallet when I go to the range for those occasionally extra stubborn conicals.

 

[sdporter]

Unless you enjoy making chips, and your time isn't valuable,
just get a resizing die and cheap press.
Maybe it's just me, I have tooling, lathe,, etc. and the only time I use it is if I need to make something that is urgent, unavailable, needs a quick repair, or unique.

If I feel I can build it on my lathe and mill, I will. That’s the fun of it.