This is how i was taught to mount my scopes.

[Shorty]

I mount all my scopes this way. It must work because some tall target test have come out real well. 1. Place gun in tipton gun vice, or another way to hold gun. 2. I mount base with blue loctite and secure to manufacturers inch pounds recommendations using my torque wrench. Third, i level the gun from side to side. 4. Place barrel level on barrel that is set to reciever level. They both should be perfectly level now. 5 take reciever level off. 6. Mount scope loosely. Tighten ring screws loosely. Do not hit the barrel level or everything else will be lost. Pick the gun up and adjust scope front to back for your eye relief. 6. Use the thin scope level under bottom side of scope to match the the barrel level. When the both are level start gently tighting the scope screws in a criss cross pattern. Keep checking both levels when tightening ring screws. Tighten ring screws to scope manufacturer's inch pound torque settings. Done..now your scope cross hairs are perpendicular with the guns reciever. This series of steps works in 99% of cases. Aim small, miss small. I also installed a Bradley's cheek rest on my patriot to get the proper eye height for myself. Ty

 

[GM54-120]

When using Loctite use LESS inch pounds. It acts like a lube and the real torque is more. So like if its 18inlbs use like 15. Mine is supposed to be 15 and that is pretty low so i just go with 15. It shouldnt be too tight.

 

[HC]

I level the gun , then set the cross hairs to a plumb line.

 

[rporter]

a plumb line hangs on the target all the time for scope work.

 

[frankmillie]

Your rig is looking good!
I’ll decide whether I need to drill a cheek riser into mine after I shoot next week.

P.S. - I was very pleased that I didn’t have to bed my scope base to the receiver. If was a great fit already

 

[Shorty]

Check out Bradley cheek rests. No drilling to stock. Super adjustable, with velcro sraps. I want a good cheek weld on all my guns. I own 3 of these, they are excellent...

 

[Half-Cocked]

My process is to put a bubble level on a flat part of the receiver to level the gun itself. I keep that bubble level there and then I add the scope and put a bubble level on top of the scope cap. I leveled the rifle with the bubble level on the flat spot of the receiver and then I simply turn and adjust the scope with the bubble level on the scope cap to level. Once both bubble levels are showing center position I start tightening the scope rings.

That's it. Easy breezy beautiful like covergirl.

I think some people tend to overcomplicate something that's kind of simple. You basically want those crosshairs level to the rifle. And in reality all this is really doing is making sure that you're holdover will be correct with no side to side variance.

 

[birdog]

You have to be careful if you level off the top turret because the turret is not always level. To check turret level you need to level the turret then turn the turret 180 deg. If you are still level then you're good. Often times it will not be level. The bottom of the turret housing is the best place to level your scope.

Tough to beat the plumb bob method.

 

[Whokalouie]

Put rifle in Tipton on walk around kitchen counter, level gun with eyeball, mount scope loosely, adjust crosshairs to align with edge of 5' x 8' plate glass window and slowly tighten rings. Now look through the scope from the objective lens and keep crosshairs in line with center of bore as screws are tightened. No levels needed.

 

[GM54-120]

Never seen the flashlight and plumb line trick huh?

 

[birdog]

Never seen the flashlight and plumb line trick huh?

That's another great method

 

[Whokalouie]

Isn't a level required for the rifle? UNLESS you can shine a light through the bore and center it on the crosshair line shown on the wall?

 

[GM54-120]

Rifle needs to be level for the flash light and plumb line method.

 

[Whokalouie]

Yep, still need to monkey with a level.

Since my youth I mounted well over 100 scopes in my Dad's gun shop by using the eyeball method I posted above. Scope was left slightly loose so it could be set to customers eye relief, did final align of crosshair to bore as screws tightened. Never used a level or had a complaint and for me is the quickest and easiest way to mount a scope.

 

[DavidAR10T]

I like the Real Avid Level Right Pro. I believe it is the easiest & fastest method "to get a scope aligned to the bore" and ready to shoot the square. For use on ARs, get the scope in the rings while loose enough to move back and forth for your eye relief. Then remove gas tube and handguard(s) and carry on with the instructions. I just wish that they used precision levels and that everything polymer was CNC anodized aluminum. I would gladly pay the manufacturing cost difference. I'm not letting the inheritance of my 3 daughters just be in liquid assets. They are going to receive some kewl stuff that third world armies are jealous of.
BTW, F-Class John likes it.
BTW II, the unit does not require the rifle to be perfectly perpendicular. And it doesn't take the integral f(x) by separation of parts to figure this out.
You are not aligning a scope's verticle stadia line perpendicular to a scope's rail or receiver. Listen to F-Class John clear it all up starting at the
1:20 minute mark.
Best to all.
BTW III, get both bubbles in the levels to JUST touch the left or right bubble line and not hunt for the imaginary center between the two lines.
It is so much easier to see if things are getting out of whack while finalizing the scopes position.

 

[MrTom]

Nice gun there Shorty!

 

[anonymouscowherd]

Like others, level the rifle and run a plumb line to line up scope with