Timney Trigger Adjustmnent - creep & pull

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kevinbrian

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May 22, 2007
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My Knight MK has a Timney stamped trigger. It also has a bit of that dreaded creep The pull weight is perfect. I would just like to adjust some of the creep out of it. I suppose that this would have something to so with 'sear engagement' but I am not enough of a trigger-smith to be sure. Can anyone help. Much obliged to ya for your troubles. (This trigger has two hex head bolts with lock-nuts on the forward side of the trigger) I just read an article where a man was adjusting a Knight Disc trigger that had only one allen bolt w/ lock nut.)
 

sabotloader

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Re: Timney trigger adjustmnent for creep

kevinbrian said:
My Knight MK has a Timney stamped trigger. It also has a bit of that dreaded creep The pull weight is perfect. I would just like to adjust some of the creep out of it. I suppose that this would have something to so with 'sear engagement' but I am not enough of a trigger-smith to be sure. Can anyone help. Much obliged to ya for your troubles. (This trigger has two hex head bolts with lock-nuts on the forward side of the trigger) I just read an article where a man was adjusting a Knight Disc trigger that had only one allen bolt w/ lock nut.)
These pictures should help you. The adjustment at the back of the trigger adjusts the creep... If you read the information in the last picture box it gives you a method of adjusting the creep, Just rember if you get the creep set to light a bump could cause the rifle to go off. Make sure you do the safety test to make sure the creep is not set to close...



 

kevinbrian

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Re: Timney trigger adjustmnent for creep

Thank you VERY VERY much!!!! That is awesome!!!
 

Smyrnagc

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Re: Timney trigger adjustmnent for creep

Hey sabotloader...Let's make this a Stickey for future use.
 

flounder

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I would like to emphasize how important it is to be extra careful when making an adjustment in the sear engagement. I have purchased used rifles that had been adjusted that didn't pass the safety test.
 

Underclocked

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Both sabotloader and flounder might want to outline just how they do their "safety testing" after making such trigger adjustments. I know my own "procedure" but would like to see if it is similar.
 

flounder

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Underclocked said:
Both sabotloader and flounder might want to outline just how they do their "safety testing" after making such trigger adjustments. I know my own "procedure" but would like to see if it is similar.
As an amateur gun tinkerer I don't like messing with the sear engagement so much because I am kind of skeered of it. But I was reading about trigger adjustments some time ago and I read about the sear engagement and how you look through that circular window in the trigger housing to check how much engagement you have there. So I was looking through my triggers and one of them barely engaged at all. I tested it out by cocking it (unloaded gun) and bumping the butt of the stock down on the cement floor pretty hard. I got it to "fire" so I increased the sear engagement and tried that again a few times and I couldn't get it to do that anymo. I am positive there are better tests but that is what I did. Actually I think that was on a Bold trigger but they work the same as far as I know.
The only adjustment I have made in sear engagement is to increase it cuz I don't want to do anything to make my gun less safe even if I do have a little creep.
Dats all I know about that, now I want to hear what you do UC so I can learn something der. The reason I made the original post wasn't because I think I know a whole lot about adjusting these things, I just wanted to emphasize the safety aspect. I think there's a reason why Knight quit putting trigger adjusting information in their manuals back in the mid 90's or therabouts.
Art
 

sabotloader

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flounder said:
Underclocked said:
Both sabotloader and flounder might want to outline just how they do their "safety testing" after making such trigger adjustments. I know my own "procedure" but would like to see if it is similar.
As an amateur gun tinkerer I don't like messing with the sear engagement so much because I am kind of skeered of it. But I was reading about trigger adjustments some time ago and I read about the sear engagement and how you look through that circular window in the trigger housing to check how much engagement you have there. So I was looking through my triggers and one of them barely engaged at all. I tested it out by cocking it (unloaded gun) and bumping the butt of the stock down on the cement floor pretty hard. I got it to "fire" so I increased the sear engagement and tried that again a few times and I couldn't get it to do that anymo. I am positive there are better tests but that is what I did. Actually I think that was on a Bold trigger but they work the same as far as I know.
The only adjustment I have made in sear engagement is to increase it cuz I don't want to do anything to make my gun less safe even if I do have a little creep.
Dats all I know about that, now I want to hear what you do UC so I can learn something der. The reason I made the original post wasn't because I think I know a whole lot about adjusting these things, I just wanted to emphasize the safety aspect. I think there's a reason why Knight quit putting trigger adjusting information in their manuals back in the mid 90's or therabouts.
Art
That is one of the easiest ways of checking sear engagement. I normal drop it form about 4-6" on the recoil pad... I do also repeat the test 2-3 times. The other thing that should be mentioned... when setting the sear adjustment with the rifle in the ready to fire position - turn the sear adjustment very slowly until the hammer drops, then turn it back 1/4 turn. Test for creep if you still feel you need less creep - no more than a 1/8 turn to loose the creep. If that fails then start the adjustment over and I would also suggest to clean the trigger assembly with a known good solvent - re-lubricate and complete the adjustments again. Then apply the mini drop test.

mike
 

kevinbrian

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Guys, I just adjusted the creep on my MK Timney trigger. The screw at the rear of the trigger needed to be RUN IN (clockwise)!!! until the hammer fell. Then, while watching the actual sear engagement through the little round window in the trigger housing, I adjusted BACK OUT (counter-clockwise) until I was at a nice crisp break but passing the safety test.


In the second pic....is the screw at the back of the actual trigger lever, and it must be turned (while rifle is cocked...safety off, BBL pointed in safe direction) until the plunger falls!!! And THEN....I turn the screw out (counter clockwise) until I have enough sear engagement for SAFETY and for functionality.
Thanks you fellas!!!! Very much,.
 

Underclocked

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It might help others to describe in more detail just what "safety tests" you guys would recommend. My own testing involves getting violent with the rifle, beating it butt first on the floor, slapping and hitting it from different directions, pulling the trigger with safety on and then remove the trigger pressure and push the safety off. I also slam shut the bolt on some rifles (depends upon design). Object is to make CERTAIN the trigger can't be actuated by accident.
 

HawgHunter

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Jul 21, 2005
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Knight used to provide this service for free with return free shipping. I do not know what the new owners policy is.
 

Omega45

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I never adjusted a Knight trigger but did yesterday on a DISC. Following the directions was a simple process which resulted in a very nice trigger pull with no creep, breaking like glass.
 

280Bravo

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Where can I find a timney trigger for my disc original it has a bad creep and pull.
Would love to get it like my disc elite love the trigger on it.
 

280Bravo

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280Bravo said:
Where can I find a timney trigger for my disc original it has a bad creep and pull.
Would love to get it like my disc elite love the trigger on it.
The two pic on bottom posted by sabotloader is that a stock trigger if so then I can adjust it my self.
 

sabotloader

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280Bravo said:
280Bravo said:
Where can I find a timney trigger for my disc original it has a bad creep and pull.
Would love to get it like my disc elite love the trigger on it.
The two pic on bottom posted by sabotloader is that a stock trigger if so then I can adjust it my self.

The trigger on your DISC Original is probably a true 'Timney' and the one on your DISC Elite is probably the contracted 'Timney' - they all adjust the same.

On the true 'Timney' and the contracted 'Timney' target trigger there are 3 adjustments - two on the front side of the trigger and one on the rear.

Adjusting the triggers is fairly simple once you try it...
 

280Bravo

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Work like a charm and me and my son done the safety check no discharge of the fire pin.
Am going to enjoy shooting this rifle even more.
Thanks again.
 

usmcssgt

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Apr 19, 2012
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NOTE to all,

If you have damaged, or lost the "E" clip that holds the safety on, it is a 1/8" re-inforced "E" clip
NAPA number is 1308 (the box store "E" clips are not a large enough diameter). The re-inforced ones are .030 dia larger.

For the safety check I drop the butt 2 feet to the floor
 

alphaburnt

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Dec 11, 2005
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I have an old Knight with trigger group that has 2 screws on front and sear engagement on back. It looks like and adjusts like the one kevinbrian pictured and described. It has the imprint of "Z" on the left side instead of Timney like the one pictured. Who would have been the manufacturer of this one?
 

sabotloader

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alphaburnt said:
I have an old Knight with trigger group that has 2 screws on front and sear engagement on back. It looks like and adjusts like the one kevinbrian pictured and described. It has the imprint of "Z" on the left side instead of Timney like the one pictured. Who would have been the manufacturer of this one?
I believe if you could track all this down - they are built on contract for Knight in the Timney production area. These triggers will not be warranted by Timney but by Knight.
 
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