Wads? Yes? No?

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I don't mean to antagonize anyone, but I'm going to ask my newbie question now: What, specifically, does the wad do? Hatchet Jack says they increase his accuracy, and I believe him. Idaho Lewis states that he uses them, which leads me to believe I should too, but I've never been one to use "extra" stuff until I know what it does and, in semi-scientific terms, how it does what it does. That's what I'm trying to understand. What difference does the wad make during firing? What is the common understanding as to the wad's behavior in terms of internal ballistics? I realize the answer might be obvious to many, but it's not intuitive to me yet.

In my case, I'm planning to fire a SL ML for the first time once the LGC ranges open up again this spring or summer (or fall...). .50 caliber percussion, and once I've had some fun with PRB I have a bucketful (several hundred) Hornady Great Plains bullets, with the Minie-type bases that are supposed to expand & engage rifling better. I also happen to have a bunch (2,000 or so) of 28 gauge veggie wads left over from my skeet reloading days, and a few hundred wool wads in that diameter as well. I'm certainly willing to try them behind the Great Plains bullets if nobody here offers any good reasons why I shouldn't, and thanks to the consensus here I'll definitely seat them separately before running the bullet down. I'll unwrap my new "virgin" range rod bought for that rifle so I can put distinct new witness marks on it. So even if I don't get a detailed answer about what the wad does during firing, I still would like to thank everyone here in advance for sharing what looks like unanimously agreed-upon advice about loading sequence & technique.
 
I don't mean to antagonize anyone, but I'm going to ask my newbie question now: What, specifically, does the wad do? Hatchet Jack says they increase his accuracy, and I believe him. Idaho Lewis states that he uses them, which leads me to believe I should too, but I've never been one to use "extra" stuff until I know what it does and, in semi-scientific terms, how it does what it does. That's what I'm trying to understand. What difference does the wad make during firing? What is the common understanding as to the wad's behavior in terms of internal ballistics? I realize the answer might be obvious to many, but it's not intuitive to me yet.

In my case, I'm planning to fire a SL ML for the first time once the LGC ranges open up again this spring or summer (or fall...). .50 caliber percussion, and once I've had some fun with PRB I have a bucketful (several hundred) Hornady Great Plains bullets, with the Minie-type bases that are supposed to expand & engage rifling better. I also happen to have a bunch (2,000 or so) of 28 gauge veggie wads left over from my skeet reloading days, and a few hundred wool wads in that diameter as well. I'm certainly willing to try them behind the Great Plains bullets if nobody here offers any good reasons why I shouldn't, and thanks to the consensus here I'll definitely seat them separately before running the bullet down. I'll unwrap my new "virgin" range rod bought for that rifle so I can put distinct new witness marks on it. So even if I don't get a detailed answer about what the wad does during firing, I still would like to thank everyone here in advance for sharing what looks like unanimously agreed-upon advice about loading sequence & technique.
They do a couple things. They protect the base of the bullet, which "steers" the bullet. They seal the bore a bit to keep from gas cutting the bullet and help bh209 ignite. They can help carry some lube. They can remove a little bit of fouling when loading. You can try shooting a load with and without wads to see what impact it will have in your rig.
 
Lubed or not lubed wads I have not found a difference in using either. I think people were afraid the lubed ones may contaminate the powder if they were seated on top of the powder for a long time. I have not found this to be an issue, but, if you are concerned the choice is simple buy unlubed you won’t regret it.
Or stik a card underneath ,I shoot side locks and to add to the discussion I find the wad with the boolit keeps the paper patch secure as I do not have a lot of patch on the base .I don"t (twist tails) if I can help it //Ed
 
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Something you may want to try is polywads from the bull shop. I learned about them on here and bought a bag of 1000 for my .50’s and my .45 in .060 thickness. So far me and my friend have been very happy with our results shooting No Excuses conicals with them. Prior to polywads we used felt and veggie wads. The poly wads have seemed to have a better seal to us. Just another option.
 
Something you may want to try is polywads from the bull shop. I learned about them on here and bought a bag of 1000 for my .50’s and my .45 in .060 thickness. So far me and my friend have been very happy with our results shooting No Excuses conicals with them. Prior to polywads we used felt and veggie wads. The poly wads have seemed to have a better seal to us. Just another option.
Buy your self some hole punch set @ Harbor Freight /$12-15 .00 and buy your sheet of poly and punch your own (way cheaper) TOW/BACO are 2 suppliers
 
Something i learned from Idaholewis is to use a half a cotton ball along with a wool wad for hollow based bullets . Made a Tremendous difference in accuracy for me in my Super 91 410 White !!! Wad then cotton ball then bullet . I got them pre-made for use with BLL lube in a old prescription bottle ready to go . The lubed balls on top of the dry wads seem to not catch fire and smoulder with the Very Hot loads of T7 i prefer to shoot . I didnt want to start a fire in the woods !!! The dry wads wouldnt catch but the dry cotton balls sometimes would have hot embers . Better safe as sorry !!! Alot went into shooting a single bug hole with that rifle but Idaholewis's cotton ball tip with a small hollow base is a Major Factor in that mix . Thanks again Lewis !!!
 
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