Who is using Hodgdon Triple 7?

[deermanok]

I occasionally use Triple 7 2f in my sidehammer guns. Never got the dreaded crud ring in those guns. I don't know if it's the number 11 caps not as hot as 209 primers?

 

[brad502a]

Never had an issue with T7 in a sidelock and #11 caps, bang 100%

 

[Bad Karma]

I see that some of you guys are really big on black powder-I hate the stuff simply because it stinks and is dirty, same goes for Pyrodex. I don't see any gain using either of those two over Triple Seven. Do those of you that swear by black powder actually see an advantage to using it in terms of accuracy?

It’s in the nose of the beholder… I think T7 just reeks, so does Pyrodex. And shooting Swiss powder gives me nearly identical “power“ as T7. Dirty? Well So is T7. In side locks I’ve found crud rings with some rifles, not with others, in any case if I’m target shooting I swab after every shot. If hunting, one Doesn’t offer any significant advantages over the other except black powder has lower ignition temperatures than the subs which, in side locks is important. I’m sure T7 can be as accurate as Swiss, it’s just not worth my time to find out.

 

[ETipp]

I have only used 2f granulated 777 in my Traditions side lock with CCI #11 caps, not a lot of shots through it yet, but not a single issue so far. I do make sure to shake the rifle with the drum in a low spot to help get powder into the drum under the nipple, a simple habit to be formed from repetition. Also make sure the drum is facing away from you and the muzzle pointed away from you when filling, this cause a slight angle which again helps fill the drum with powder. I set the butt on my foot which forces this sideways rotation, don't want to scrape up the metal butt plate on the concrete at the club.

As to the crud ring, this form where the powder and projectile meet, most likely powder that doesn't really burn.

My late dad taught me many moons ago that after pouring powder down the barrel of a sidelock to lean the ML over toward the lock side, then take my hand and wrap on the rear of the stock a few times to help get powder into the flash hole/chamber. It must work because I have never had a misfire other than the one time I had been out in pouring down rain for a few hours, which melted the inside of the cap. Removed the cap, cleaned out the nipple hole, put a few tiny grains of black powder down the nipple, and she fired as she should.

 

[ETipp]

It’s in the nose of the beholder… I think T7 just reeks, so does Pyrodex. And shooting Swiss powder gives me nearly identical “power“ as T7. Dirty? Well So is T7. In side locks I’ve found crud rings with some rifles, not with others, in any case if I’m target shooting I swab after every shot. If hunting, one Doesn’t offer any significant advantages over the other except black powder has lower ignition temperatures than the subs which, in side locks is important. I’m sure T7 can be as accurate as Swiss, it’s just not worth my time to find out.

So far I agree. Still have to test the 777 loose out of my old sidelock, but after putting a fair amount through an inline, I do not recall black powder to be much dirtier, if any at all. And yes sir, very cold temperatures has never been a factor with black powder for this ole boy.

 

[10gaugemag]

It’s in the nose of the beholder… I think T7 just reeks, so does Pyrodex. And shooting Swiss powder gives me nearly identical “power“ as T7. Dirty? Well So is T7. In side locks I’ve found crud rings with some rifles, not with others, in any case if I’m target shooting I swab after every shot. If hunting, one Doesn’t offer any significant advantages over the other except black powder has lower ignition temperatures than the subs which, in side locks is important. I’m sure T7 can be as accurate as Swiss, it’s just not worth my time to find out.

What little I have used Pyrodex I cannot believe the stuff is still made.

My experience w it vs real black is like comparing trying to light a wet paper sack vs lighting gasoline.

My one and only range session with it was on a drizzly day. Harder to ignite for sure.

Real black went boom and just as easy as if on a dry day.

Saw mo advantage in clean up either.

Seeing same with T7. Doesn't clean up a lick easier as it hardens some compared to black staying somewhat soft.

 

[WP79Vet]

So far I've used T7 3F with No. 11 caps exclusively in my Renegade. Maybe 25 shots to date with no misfires, slow fires, or any other problems - and the T7 bottle I'm on was opened about 5 or 6 years ago. I swab after every shot and on the first pass down the barrel with a swab, it does feel like there's a bit of extra fouling just before the rod hits bottom. All the fouling seems to come out easily when I remove the barrel, remove the nipple, dunk the breech in boiling soapy water, and pump water up the barrel and out the nipple hole. Pipe cleaners run into the fire channel come out clean after that treatment, as do patches that I run into the powder chamber on a patch puller. Around here T7 and Pyrodex are all we can get, and I don't like Pyrodex.

 

[ETipp]

So far I agree. Still have to test the 777 loose out of my old sidelock, but after putting a fair amount through an inline, I do not recall black powder to be much dirtier, if any at all. And yes sir, very cold temperatures has never been a factor with black powder for this ole boy.

Update:

Went to the range yesterday and forgot that I had emptied out my powder horn of black powder. I did have some 777 loose in my possibles bag so I tested it. Seemed to do okay overall. I did have one misfire where the cap fired but the powder did not. What I had done was I thought I would try a regular #11 cap on that shot rather than the #11 magnum caps I always use. After the misfire and waiting a minute or so, I replaced the standard cap with a magnum cap and she torched off like it had oughtta. So, with this particular sidelock that has shown me that a standard cap is not reliable with 777 loose powder.