10 ML-II Front Swivel Stud

Modern Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Modern Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Loggy

Well-Known Member
*
Joined
May 20, 2005
Messages
1,671
Reaction score
5
Just wondered if any of you 10 ML owners experienced the frt swivel stud keep working loose? It took quite a while of carrying in the field till i noticed it loosening. I tried a drop of Blue Locktite in thread but it didnt cure the problem.

I emailed Randy and he suggested a drop of epoxy. I tried and it is rock solid and hasent come loose since. I used the 2 part type Epoxy.

Thought I'd post as a heads-up & maybe help some avoid it coming out unexpectedly and gun falling. Know there are quite a few 10 ML-II owners here plus more on the way. :D
 
Mine actually broke, with the gun falling off of my shoulder. Luckily, I caught it before it hit the ground. The stock is the tupperware version if that makes any difference.

Had to epoxy what remained back into the stock. The other half is still inside the stock. You can hear it rattling around if you shake the gun.

Oh well, it will ultimately be fixed when I send my gun to John Okubo for one of his thumbhole stocks. SWEET.
 
AussieLuvR, they only have a flat washer with nut holding. I thought about a lock washer but the epoxy really locked it in. I used the slow cure type. Look fwd to hearing about your new thumbhole stock!
 
I had the front swivel stud come loose on a laminated stock while getting ready to come down a 30' ladder stand. I put the blue LocTite on it when I got home. I hasn't been a problem since.

black3
 
While in the process of making the Simms recoil pad fit on my HB, I took a good look at the front sling stud and noticed that the milled mounting hole inside the stock where the stud nut rests left very little of the laminated stock to provide long term support. :(
Since I depend on shoulder carrying ability while walking to my stand locations, I felt I needed to strengthen this area. To do so, I added enough two part epoxy to fill the entire milled out area. :D

If at a later date I decide to remove the stud, a dremmel tool and small milling bit will remove the cured epoxy and then allow the stud to be extracted.
 
removing swivel stud from epoxy

Corvair,

Epoxy breaks down at about 185 degrees F. I've taken wires that I've used to hold parts together on boats that have been epoxied over, just by holding a soldering iron on them till they heat up, then pulling them out. They come out easily too. You might be able to do something along the same lines with your stud if the need ever arises.

Ken
 
Loggy said:
I emailed Randy and he suggested a drop of epoxy.

I used 2 part epoxy to do the same thing on a Ruger Mark II VT with the laminated stock. Seems to work pretty good.
 
Back
Top