.410 shotshell primers to replace 209 primers

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JD

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I just recieved my new field & stream today, and found an interesting article on page 54.It was written by Lawrence Payne.

Supposedly hodgdon powder has been researching the problem with residue causing barrell clog and difficult bullet seating from using pelletized powder. Here's what they found.

Pellets take more time to ignite than loose powder . with the explosion of a 209 primer the force can drive the pellets forward before combustion is complete. Which inturn leaves a trail of residue that does not burn away. this is the residue we all clean between shots to ease our reloading and promot better accurracy. Seems they found a fix or so they say.

Their suggestion is to switch to a .410 shotshell primer or to a ML only version[remington Kleenbore muzzloading primers]. They claim changing to this option will allow 2 to 15 more shots between cleanups. with no noticable loss of velocity or accuracy.

I thought it sounded like a good Idea , any thoughts. :?:
 
It might be time to show my ignorance...

I have a MEC 77 sizemaster for which I have reloaded 12 gauge shotgun shells. Never gave it much thought but I just assumed that the primers used in .410 shells my kids shoot were 209's also.

Am I all wet on this one?
 
Thanks for sharing article JD. Ive been with the Win 209's but always good to hear reports on whut others are doing or testing. :D
 
.410 Primers wont ignite 777 pellets in my Knight Elite consistently. The Encore/Omega would be good choices for the .410 primers. I myself want my gun to go bang in hunting conditions. I prefer the hotter Federal 209 primer. I tested the .410 primers and saw no accuracy difference at all.
 
I have been using the Remington 209-4 primers for EVERYTHING for a while now. No failures to ignite ANYTHING so far!
 
Re: It might be time to show my ignorance...

Hawken Cougar said:
I have a MEC 77 sizemaster for which I have reloaded 12 gauge shotgun shells. Never gave it much thought but I just assumed that the primers used in .410 shells my kids shoot were 209's also.

Am I all wet on this one?


I did'nt know there was a difference either but I'm guessing there must be.
 
JD said:
I just recieved my new field & stream today, and found an interesting article on page 54.It was written by Lawrence Payne.

Supposedly hodgdon powder has been researching the problem with residue causing barrell clog and difficult bullet seating from using pelletized powder. Here's what they found.

Pellets take more time to ignite than loose powder . with the explosion of a 209 primer the force can drive the pellets forward before combustion is complete. Which inturn leaves a trail of residue that does not burn away. this is the residue we all clean between shots to ease our reloading and promot better accurracy. Seems they found a fix or so they say.

Their suggestion is to switch to a .410 shotshell primer or to a ML only version[remington Kleenbore muzzloading primers]. They claim changing to this option will allow 2 to 15 more shots between cleanups. with no noticable loss of velocity or accuracy.

I thought it sounded like a good Idea , any thoughts. :?:


Hmmmm. Er......


The "combustion" is seldom "complete" on T 7 inside the barrel. Crud rings happen with loose powder as well-- :roll:
 
I shoot nothing but loose T7 in mt Knight rifles with Winchester 209 primers. The more T7 I load the worse the crud ring gets. The relationship between load density and bore fouling is linear with T7. My partner shoots light loads, 70 grs of T7 FFFG with 250 grain cheap shots, using musket caps=no crud ring. With an 80 gr load in my Knights, with 250 Barnes, I get a definite ring. At 120 grains of T7 FFFg and the Barnes bullets, you WILL swab the bore before reloading.
 
Re: It might be time to show my ignorance...

Hawken Cougar said:
I have a MEC 77 sizemaster for which I have reloaded 12 gauge shotgun shells. Never gave it much thought but I just assumed that the primers used in .410 shells my kids shoot were 209's also.

Am I all wet on this one?

Winchester uses the same 209s for their .410 shells. Federal has a .410 primer, but does not sell it as a component.

Use of a small bore cartridge primer is an old idea, and was used by Knight in their "Magnum Elite."

According to the Remington ammo plant, their so-called new 'Kleanbore' primer is the same old 209-4 .410 primer. Now billed as a muzzleloading primer, it will be more money. :shock:

If you use T 7 pellets and have a longish, cool breechplug (Knight / NEF / H & R) you will want a full strength 209 primer for reliability. If you want a consistent bore condition w/ sabots (and accuracy) a spit patch between shots is the "way."

Crud ring depends on gun. For a looooong time, Hodgdon said it was only do to certain "bore lubes" (3 years). Lick a patch, and swab. If it seems like a hard sugary residue, it should-- as that is essentially what it is.
 
have been using the Remington 209-4 primers for EVERYTHING for a while now. No failures to ignite ANYTHING so far!

I have to agree with Big 6x6 here. I have been using the Remington 209-4 for the last 4 years in my various inlines. I do not recall any non-ignitions - even in the extreme weather we get here in northern Idaho during hunting season. I am one that does not unload after a day either - I have had loads in for 2 weeks at a time and still have got the performance I need. If the weather has been particularly wet then I will shoot the load out.

Another thought - I am not using pellets - I am using a T7-2f, but only 100/110 grains. Another thing I have been quite forunate with - I do not experiance the "bad crud ring" in either of the Remingtons or the the A&H. I am able to load 3-4-5 loads before I start feeling the effects.

i believe in the the 209-4, but do not want to pay more for it so I ordered a few extra bricks of the older Kleenbore 209-4's
 

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