bestill said:Make the plug seal on rear and front length wouldnt matter.
Curious what would you change on my plug for knight bolt gun.
The length is hard to reduce since you need a minimum volume for for flame channel. .800x.156 works well.
So primer pocket .230 +.800 channel + .250 bushing+ .187 lock ring. 1.467 is about as short as it can be.
:lol: I keep seeing that too. It was "supposed to have this and that" but it doesn't Yet it is far superior to all the rifles with identical and interchangeable parts. outside the stock...its just lightersbuff said:Not to derail the thread but saying the knight UL is the best production ML made is a very bold statement.
I'll sit back and keep reading.
Steve
bestill said:No issues!
The carbon blasts typically only travels about2 threads and use a thin wrap of Teflon tape on threads with a little gun oils on tape. Removes easily and cleaning is simple.
bestill said:No issues!
The carbon blasts typically only travels about2 threads and use a thin wrap of Teflon tape on threads with a little gun oils on tape. Removes easily and cleaning is simple.
Grouse said:bestill said:No issues!
The carbon blasts typically only travels about2 threads and use a thin wrap of Teflon tape on threads with a little gun oils on tape. Removes easily and cleaning is simple.
It seems like every way i look at it, a front sealing plug is better. What is your opinion on why a rear sealing plug is better? Just curious to know myself.
bestill said:Grouse said:bestill said:No issues!
The carbon blasts typically only travels about2 threads and use a thin wrap of Teflon tape on threads with a little gun oils on tape. Removes easily and cleaning is simple.
It seems like every way i look at it, a front sealing plug is better. What is your opinion on why a rear sealing plug is better? Just curious to know myself.
Rear has no issues with gas cutting like a front sealing plug. Also with machining a front sealing plug down in barrel at say 1.5" with small boring bar is much tougher than a rear sealing plug at say .5"
But the main reason is gas cutting.
Knight and savage are notorious for gas cutting front seal..
The rear seal will not cut also a perfect seal. Once a front sealing plug gas cuts it's a junk barrel typically barrel is softer than plug
sabotloader said:
a1smokepole said:sabotloader said:
The two plug in this pic or rear sealing plugs the one on the left looks like lukes plug.
Having done a little custom work by re-barreling a "rescued" gun, I can definitely testify to what you describe above about machining difficulty for the front sealing plug. Here's a question: if a person brought me a rifle, with mild gas cutting on the barrel/plug shelf and it was an open breech, slam-fire type, could I make a new, rear sealing breech plug for it if I maintained the proper head spacing & such? Slam fire guns have a bit of leeway built in with the distance of hammer throw and if the end result was good rear seal, good hammer/nipple contact, would that work? Would the gas cutting continue or would it stop where it is since a tight seal isn't being made on the bp face any more? Really interested in y'all's wisdom (apologies for any thread hijacking )bestill said:Rear has no issues with gas cutting like a front sealing plug. Also with machining a front sealing plug down in barrel at say 1.5" with small boring bar is much tougher than a rear sealing plug at say .5"
But the main reason is gas cutting.
Knight and savage are notorious for gas cutting front seal..
The rear seal will not cut also a perfect seal. Once a front sealing plug gas cuts it's a junk barrel typically barrel is softer than plug
bestill said:clarification :
The plug on left is arrowhead sporting goods breech plug.
I use in all custom builds.
Bestill plug is a custom fit knight bolt gun breech plug not pictured.
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