renegade disassembly

[dbowling1]

I just came in to a old thompson center renegade that someone did a camo job on the stock and Im wanting to refinish it...Ive never taken the lock/trigger mechanism off one of these... could someone post the steps to taking everything off of it to refinish, pertaining to the lock/trigger... pictures would be great if you have time to mess with it... just dont want to remove something in a order that its not supposed to be.... thanks for any help greatly appreciated... forgot it has the double set triggers and old steel butt plate.
Im not a new member been on here since 2005 just lost all my log in e-mail info. when computer crashed so had to reregister, mostly lurk/read dont post alot..

 

[dbowling1]

nevermind

nevermind guys I figured it out, after taking the screw out of gun for sidelock I just had to tap it loose, same with the trigger assembly.... what kind of finish did T/C use on these, Ive got the camo paint removed but the original finish is a pita to get off... it might be the stripper Im using since its a non toxic stripper... whats the best finish to get a matte finish that will stand up to weather...hows boiled linseed oil work?

 

[bloodhound]

I think TC used a poly finishe...so it willbe tough to remove...just keep after it with the stripper and then sand paper. As to the new finish, Linseed oil is nice but takes a long time to cure...I like Tru-oil, Formbys Oil finish or what I have been using lately is Minwax Poly Shield its a wipe on wipe off Poly and it is very durable comes in matt or gloss and you can get it in color shades...Poly Shades.


It has been working for me on my last 4 gun refinishes

 

[shguns]

track of the wolf has some finish that might be worth looking into.

 

[ebiggs1]

The finish on a factory TC is not all that bad to remove. Any commercial stripper will do it. You need gloves, a trash bag, and some 0 steel woof. Put the stripper on the stock and wrap the trash bag around it. Wait for it to do it's job. Use the steel wool to remove the stubborn places.
Use the regular water hose outside (strong stream) to remove all the remaining stripper. Dry the stock. Lightly sand with no more than 150 grit.
Linseed oil or boiled linseed oil is the devil never use it. There are so many better finishes on the market. Some of the best are from Minwax such as their Tung Oil Finish. Other brands have excellent finishes too.
The wood on all TC's is walnut so it should make a gorgeous gun when you are done.
Tru-oil is a form of BSLO but is much better if you must use a linseed oil type product.

 

[Semisane]

I like to use a fine brass brush (the ones like a toothbrush) with stripper. It seems to make the job go faster.

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-de ... 40439.html

 

[dbowling]

thats a good idea never even crossed my mind..

I like to use a fine brass brush (the ones like a toothbrush) with stripper. It seems to make the job go faster.

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-de ... 40439.html

 

[ebiggs1]

It will need to be a very soft brush. If it is too stiff, it will gouge the soft wood from the stripper.

 

[guitarpicva]

track of the wolf has some finish that might be worth looking into.

I think you may mean Lin-speed oil. I have some for use on knife scales, but I haven't tried it yet. Gets great reviews.

 

[dbowling]

posted pics of the finished gun in another thread

heres the link to the gun after it was finished, used min wax satin poly spray..
http://www.modernmuzzleloader.com/phpBB ... hp?t=23097

 

[shguns]

This finish maybe worth a look.

http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categorie ... LMF-FINISH

They have sealer and finish.

 

[guitarpicva]

Linseed oil or boiled linseed oil is the devil never use it. There are so many better finishes on the market. Some of the best are from Minwax such as their Tung Oil Finish. Other brands have excellent finishes too.
The wood on all TC's is walnut so it should make a gorgeous gun when you are done.
Tru-oil is a form of BLSO but is much better if you must use a linseed oil type product.

So what's the gripe on the linseed oil products? Take too long? I understand they give a deeper more 3D look to the wood. Does the Tung Oil finish also add depth? I bought some exotic blanks for knife scales and I want to do them full justice.

 

[ebiggs1]

They used linseed oil back in the day because there wasn't anything else. But today we have any number of products that out preform linseed oil in every way.
Regular BLO never really dries it cures soft, so it has to be left too thin on the wood to be really protective or durable The modern counter products that include linseed oil in there formulas add driers and they are better.
They still need to be applied very thin and many coats. If that is the look
you desire, go for it.
Real tung oil is fantastic as are some of the other exotic oils. Danish oil for instance as long as it uses tung oil for it's base.
Most of the finishes available on the market are really varnishes. And any of them works really well pretty much. I prefer Minwax Tung Oil Finish which actually contains no tung oil.