Best cleaning procedure for non-removable breech.

Modern Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Modern Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Rhino Hunter

Well-Known Member
*
Joined
Dec 18, 2007
Messages
55
Reaction score
0
What is the best cleaning procedure for a non removable breech? (Besides buying a new guy?)

You know...clean patch, then wet patch, then wire brush, etc.

Thanx!

Rhino Hunter
 
Just keep on putting a patch with solvent down the barrel till they come out clean, then use a breechplug scraper and brush then another solvent patch til clean then your favorite bore protection on a patch and your done.

Forgot to add, that I removed the nipple prior to doing all the above steps, then clean the threads and use a pipe cleaner to clean out the nipple. Be sure to put some grease on the nipple threads before you put it back in the breech.
 
I don't know about 'best' ...

I've always used a piece of rubber tubing over a musket nipple and pumped hot soapy water through mine for a minute followed up up by a scraper and more pumping, then dry patches until they come out dry and clean. Then follow-up with removing the nipple, clean threads with a Q-tip, apply rust inhibitor and your done. Takes less than 10 mins to clean my Firehawk including the bolt components in the same soapy water. I've shot it a lot (>8 lbs Pyrodex loose and lots of pellets) over the last 15ish years and it looks like new.
 
The FireHawk is a great gun!! I had one that was pre QLA and like a dummy sent it back to have the QLA installed. It wouldn't shoot conicals very good after that....sold it to finance the Encore in '02.
 
I also have a Firehawk and I really like it. I won it in a buck contest about 10 years ago. Shot my first deer with it a month ago.

I bought a plastic canister with a screen for soaking the nipple. Looks like a jewelry cleaner setup. Work pretty good.

Do you use the bore butter or something else when you're storing it?

Thanks for the info.

Rhino Hunter

P.S.-What's the QLA that was mentioned?

P.S.S-Have either of you upgraded the cap to a 209 primer, or a musket cap? If so how do you like it?
 
QLA - is an unrifled secton of the bore at the muzzle end, usually about 3/4 to 1 inch long. Aids in loading (a little) but often destroys accuracy with conicals and sometimes with anything. The QLA has to be done perfectly aligned with the bore and it seems TC has a problem with that.
 
Quick Load Accurizer. A few inches of straight bore to align the bullet and sabot. (see also"useless things on a muzzleloader"... :twisted: :lol:
 
WOW...you guys are fast!

I just checked my FireHawk and it does not have it. The rifling goes right to the end of the barrel. It sounds like that is a good thing...right?

Thanx,

Rhino Hunter
 
In theory, it's a wonderful idea. Aligning the bullet perfectly every time, but, the QLA has to be perfectly aligned also. Therein lies the problem! Also you have to put straight, uniform pressure on the projectile. Another problem. I like it because you don't need a short starter.
 
QLA, Bore Butter answers

The guys have already explained what QLA is, my Firehawk has it and it must be well aligned because it will shoot 1.5" at 100 yd easily with multiple SABOT bullet combos. My Omega does better than that at 0.5 inches and also has QLA (aligned better I suppose). I like it alot for the reasons already mentioned. I understand it isn't good with full bore bullets but never tried them.
The bore butter thing is controversial in this group so take my experience with a grain of salt. I have used it exclusively for over 25 years on all my MLs which have been stainless steel and never have I seen any sign of corrosion - ever. My MLs have never seen any type of oil or grease other than the BB inside and out. I don't know about my most recent gun which was used when I got it, but now only sees bore butter. I even use it on breechplugs and nipples and don't see any reason to change. I shoot a pound or more of loose Pyrodex or now T7 every year that I hunt but there have been several 2 year gaps in my ML hunting.
 
209 conversion

Missed this question and I have experience with it. First off - DON'T DO IT on a Firehawk if you hunt anywhere where moisture could be a problem. The 209 holder has slots in it that allow the 'extra' flame to vent outside the touch hole. These are an open path from the environment to the powder. I used 209s in mine for 2 years while trying various ways to keep my powder dry and failed. I used the velcro sleeve that T/C sells and duct tape on the outside, rubber sleeves that I made to fit over the 209 holder, tiny O-rings under the primer and found that it was fruitless. Every time i hunted in the drizzle, rain, snow my Firehawk would hangfire or poop-fire. So now I back to #11 mag caps and loose powder and it works perfectly every time. I had changed to musket caps part way through my career with the Firehawk to deal with pellets and that was the start of all my problems. #11s are a little weak for pellets, musket caps are fine but they don't seal nearly as well, 209 don't seal at all. If you use loose powder and #11 mag caps all is well. My opinion...from my experiences.... :)
 
Re: 209 conversion

smong2000 said:
Missed this question and I have experience with it. First off - DON'T DO IT on a Firehawk if you hunt anywhere where moisture could be a problem. The 209 holder has slots in it that allow the 'extra' flame to vent outside the touch hole. These are an open path from the environment to the powder. I used 209s in mine for 2 years while trying various ways to keep my powder dry and failed. I used the velcro sleeve that T/C sells and duct tape on the outside, rubber sleeves that I made to fit over the 209 holder, tiny O-rings under the primer and found that it was fruitless. Every time i hunted in the drizzle, rain, snow my Firehawk would hangfire or poop-fire. So now I back to #11 mag caps and loose powder and it works perfectly every time. I had changed to musket caps part way through my career with the Firehawk to deal with pellets and that was the start of all my problems. #11s are a little weak for pellets, musket caps are fine but they don't seal nearly as well, 209 don't seal at all. If you use loose powder and #11 mag caps all is well. My opinion...from my experiences.... :)

Thanks for the detailed response.

I shot my first ML deer, a buck, about a month ago. I loaded up right after I hit him but never needed to shoot it again. The next day I went to unload it and the cap went off but not the load. I put a new cap in and then it fired. I would have been smokin' mad if this had happened when I pulled down on my buck. I was using the #11 caps with pyrodex pellets and powerbelts (no flames please). When I was draggin my buck out (over 1/2 mile in 2 feet of snow) I fell numerous times and I know snow got on my gun and the cap area. I think the cap got wet. That's why I was checking into changing over to the 209 primer.

Does anybody else have any experience on this topic?

Rhino Hunter
 
toytruck said:
Just keep on putting a patch with solvent down the barrel till they come out clean, then use a breechplug scraper and brush then another solvent patch til clean then your favorite bore protection on a patch and your done.

What's a breechplug scraper and brush. I went to Gander Mountain and they didn't have anything that fit that description.

TX!

Rhino Hunter
 
Had an old model cva blazer and just used the hot bucket of soapy water treatment to clean the rifle out then removed the nipple and used a Q-tip to clean the inside of the nipple hole. Kind of wish they never came out with the removeable breech plug as i feel it just adds time to cleaning.
 
Back
Top