I was talking to a Savage shooter,last night and he said that he lubed his sabots before shooting them! I've never tried this,but he claimed that they load alot easier,and shoot better than just shooting them dry. He said that he uses Hornady one shot case lube(for metallic reloading) on the sabots,and it takes very little. I thought that this could cause trouble with the load,but apprently it dosen't. He also said he knows other shooters that use silcone spray on their sabots. He was very clear as not to use too much. In his words (if you can feel it on the sabot,you have enough!) Darn it, now I'm thinking that is another thing to try(But I love to try diffrent things out). I 've seen him shoot at the range,and his shooting,and accuracy is extreemly good! I use to shoot trap and had trouble with plastic build up in my barrel. He told me to change to Blue Duster wads. I did and the build up went away. They feel really slick,he said that they had silcone blended into the wad resin! What do you guys think? Ron :?
To lube,or not to lube?
- Thread starter Ron S
- Start date
Help Support Modern Muzzleloading Forum:
- Joined
- Jul 16, 2005
- Messages
- 432
- Reaction score
- 1
He's sick today. :lol:
A
Anonymous
Guest
Ron S said:
Is this a dry lube, like motor mica?
Loading easier makes sense, but not the shooting "better" part.
- Joined
- May 17, 2005
- Messages
- 4,940
- Reaction score
- 146
If you hafto lube a sabot to load it, so be it. I would try different sabots first. MMP HPH 24'S And new formulation Harvesters sabots are easier loading sabots. I like the least amount of steps as possible. 
It's a spray lube that dries after about 5 minutes. I've got some that I use of my center fire rifle cases. It really isn't messy,or greasy! The other one is a silcone mold release spray.It isn't very greasy either. I'm going to give it a try,what the heck! I also have had some time to think about the Blue Duster shot gun wads. If they can mix a silcone into the resin,why can't it be done with sabots? Ron :? Hornady sells it.
A
Anonymous
Guest
Whether Claybuster, factory AA, factory Rem., or the Dusters-- I've never seen any difference at all in plastic fouling in the choke tube area.
http://shop2.mailordercentral.com/bpicart/products.asp?dept=73
There's the mica I was referring to. For shotshell wads, you just put a dab in the bag, shake it around, and bingo-- you've treated 250 wads in a few moments.
http://shop2.mailordercentral.com/bpicart/products.asp?dept=73
There's the mica I was referring to. For shotshell wads, you just put a dab in the bag, shake it around, and bingo-- you've treated 250 wads in a few moments.
Randy that might be worth looking into! Ron On the diffrence between the plastic buildup,it was in the bore. This was caused by shooting very hot loads for games. Annies,killers,ect. The plastic in the choke tubes wasn't the bad deal,it was the plastic left in the bore ahead of the forcing cone. I used to use carb. cleaner to cut it out of the barrel.
On the diffrence between the plastic buildup,it was in the bore. This was caused by shooting very hot loads for games. Annies,killers,ect. The plastic in the choke tubes wasn't the bad deal,it was the plastic left in the bore ahead of the forcing cone. I used to use carb. cleaner to cut it out of the barrel.Well,my friend came by this afternoon and wanted to go to the range and try out the lubed sabot experiment! What we found out was= 1. It didn't improve accuracy,but it didn't hurt it either! 2. The sabots loaded much easier,than without the lube. 3. I can now shoot the HPH-12's in my gun,they load very easy now. 4. Dose this make any diffrence? Yes,if you have some sabots that are too hard to load this will help. Also having the right sabot will have the same results. I have purchased over 120 boxes of T/C Shock Waves in the last two years. I have two huge zip lock bags full of the sabots that came with them. I can now shoot them,as they were too hard to load before. MMP is still my sabot of choice,but now I can use the left over sabots for plinking,varmit hunting,ect. Thank God! rayer: I was thinking of going to the local pool hall,and trying to peddel them off as cue stick tip protectors 
to recoupe my losses! Later we are going to try to lube some sabots that load good already,to see how it effects them. If they load good now,they may load great,after the lube job. On a side note: while at the range one of the local shooters ask what we were doing? I explained that we were trying to find a way to make the sabots load easier. He picked up a bullet and looked at it and said (whats the diamenter of this bullet?) We told him it was .452! He pitched it back on the bench,and said try a .451 DUMMY! Don't ya just hate it, when that happens? What's he know anyway? Ron
rayer: I was thinking of going to the local pool hall,and trying to peddel them off as cue stick tip protectors to recoupe my losses! Later we are going to try to lube some sabots that load good already,to see how it effects them. If they load good now,they may load great,after the lube job. On a side note: while at the range one of the local shooters ask what we were doing? I explained that we were trying to find a way to make the sabots load easier. He picked up a bullet and looked at it and said (whats the diamenter of this bullet?) We told him it was .452! He pitched it back on the bench,and said try a .451 DUMMY! Don't ya just hate it, when that happens? What's he know anyway? Ron
- Joined
- May 18, 2005
- Messages
- 450
- Reaction score
- 5
I wonder how moly coating the sabots would work? Like they do with some of the CF rifle bullets. I believe there is a kit out there.......
ZEP Products makes a spray-on teflon too. A friend would spray the inside of his shotgun barrel before shooting that day and he said that it helped keep it cleaner.
Blue-Dot-37.5
ZEP Products makes a spray-on teflon too. A friend would spray the inside of his shotgun barrel before shooting that day and he said that it helped keep it cleaner.
Blue-Dot-37.5
We kicked the idea of the moly coating around,and are pretty sure that we don't want to go that route. The moly is hydroscopic(it attracts moisture) we used to use it in our highpower rifles,but since have quit. The stuff we used today was Hornady One Shot Case lube. It drys pretty fast. We also used some stuff called Slide> It's a mold release agent,and it worked as well(maybe a little better). The diffrence is amazing. It took about 50% less effort to drive the bullet/sabot down the bore! I'm sure that there's other products out there that will work also! If you like to experiment,give it a try and let us know what you think. Ron
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2005
- Messages
- 52
- Reaction score
- 3
I lightly lube my sabots with Bore Butter in my .50 T/C Renegade. I am using T/C breakaway sabots and a .429 200 grain XTP HP. Shooting 90 grains of Pyrodex Select I can maintain a 1.2 inch group at 100 yards with this rifle and load combo. At 50 yards it will often shoot thru the same hole shot after shot. This rifle has been maintained with Bore Butter/Wonder Lube since the mid 1980's without rust, plastic fouling or any other problems. Most folks hate the T/C Breakaway sabot but I have a huge bag of them Henry Ball gave me back when he was developing his smokeless muzzleloader way back when. He hated them and gladly gave them to me for use in my Renegade.
This lube method does allow easier loading. If you use a lube that does not ruin your powder or go crazy with the amount I see no harm in it. The method I use is to keep a felt pad greased with Wonder Lube in an old ear plug plastic box. I open the box and rub my finger over it. Then I spin the sabot against my lightly lubed finger. This gives me the barest film of lube on the sabot.
One of the critical factors in loading a sabot is, of course, that it is tight enough to grip the rifling and spin the bullet. If it doesn't do that your accuracy goes to pot. If you are getting good groups it is working.
This lube method does allow easier loading. If you use a lube that does not ruin your powder or go crazy with the amount I see no harm in it. The method I use is to keep a felt pad greased with Wonder Lube in an old ear plug plastic box. I open the box and rub my finger over it. Then I spin the sabot against my lightly lubed finger. This gives me the barest film of lube on the sabot.
One of the critical factors in loading a sabot is, of course, that it is tight enough to grip the rifling and spin the bullet. If it doesn't do that your accuracy goes to pot. If you are getting good groups it is working.
I agree Ron, if there is no negative affect on accuracy or reliability and the loading effort is reduced,then by all means this is a good idea. Hopefully over time enough of us will have a chance to try this and be able to report as to whether this is a good option. My best loads are hard to load but I really didn't care. Today it was brought to my attention that a younger Savage Shooter was having a difficult time loading in cold weather. I can see that being a real problem, hopefully this will be the answer he is looking for. Great Suggestion Ron!
