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1-48. This is standard for all factory Hawkens and Renegades excepting the rare Hawkens marked 1-66.
I just zeroed my Renegade's aperture sight. All 3 groups at 50 yards were under an inch. The load was the one listed in my previous post. The 200 and 230 grain .45 XTPs work very well too. In my barrel, which is a VERY hard ram, the 230s and 250s need crush ribs.
The 200s are good with regular Harvesters.
 
I'm going to suggest a buy twice don't cry at all solution. Find yourself a good used T/C flinter in whatever you like or is available as stated by others. This way you have instant gratification and can start shooting and learning while you order and build your Kibler to your specs. Please get a .50 or larger and don't kid yourself that you're only going to have one muzzloader.
 
Modern bullets are fun in modern inlines (October muzzleloader season), but late season is great for throwing massive chunks of lead. Forget the round balls, solid lead conicals do serious work from a flintlock. TC Maxi Hunters, Lee REAL, etc.
 
Personally I don’t like any of the production locks. I’ve seen way too many fail from all the manufacturers. If you buy a TC or one of the others, update the lock with a new D&R or Siler lock.
 
New folks especially are well-advised to start with a good quality flintlock - with emphasis on the lock itself. Percussion is no more than a hammer hitting a nipple. If a mainspring breaks, you can use rubber bands and it will fire. Flinters have variables - even among identical locks that can only be found by shooting the gun a lot.

Sometimes when you see a used flinter for sale, it's because the previous owner ended up with a too-soft frizzen, out of kilter hammer, bad flash hole placement, etc. etc. If replacement parts are hard to find, you're screwed. Price doesn't always denote reliability, but forums can provide useful information from others' experiences to avoid clunkers -- even high dollar ones. If parts aren't readily available ...hmmmmm.
 
New folks especially are well-advised to start with a good quality flintlock - with emphasis on the lock itself. Percussion is no more than a hammer hitting a nipple. If a mainspring breaks, you can use rubber bands and it will fire. Flinters have variables - even among identical locks that can only be found by shooting the gun a lot.

Sometimes when you see a used flinter for sale, it's because the previous owner ended up with a too-soft frizzen, out of kilter hammer, bad flash hole placement, etc. etc. If replacement parts are hard to find, you're screwed. Price doesn't always denote reliability, but forums can provide useful information from others' experiences to avoid clunkers -- even high dollar ones. If parts aren't readily available ...hmmmmm.

I hear you loud and clear. I want a well tuned lock that can provide fast ignition, looking for the flint lock equivalent of a well built 1911.


What rifle would you recommend?
 
Is this something the shooter accomplishes? Or is the answer to buy a well sorted lock from a competent smith?
Tuned by the shooter (or someone). The optimal size and shape touch/flash hole. A flint type, size and position that the gun likes which creates good spark on that gun’s frizzen, and throws spark into the pan quickly and accurately. There’s an art to it. Much less to do with the lock itself and much more how it’s set up.
 
Not sure where you are in PA but if you're around exit 20 of of I-81 you can stop at Chambers muzzleloading shop. Its right across from McDonald's. I think its still open. Last time I was there he had a couple custom flintlocks there for $1100. You can't miss it. There's a big wooden muzzleloader hanging out front. I came so close to grabbing one in a .54. These were the elegant long gun style PA was noted for.
 
FOR SALE AT TRACK OF THE WOLF:

This H. E. Leman half stock rifle was hand finished from the H. E. Leman rifle kit once made by Green River Rifle Works, of Roosevelt, Utah. Although they closed years ago, their fine rifles are highly collectible. Perhaps the most famous of the Lancaster makers, Henry Eicholtz Leman (also spelled Lehman early in his career), created a factory to produce arms for westbound settlers, in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania. This percussion half stock plains rifle is modeled after his 1840 to 1880 period work. The trigger reach is 14" to fit today's average size shooter. Weight is 8.8 pounds.

The seven-groove cut rifled 1" octagon barrel is 32" length. These Green River Rifle Works (GRRW) barrels were famous for accuracy, during the 1970 era of their production. Cut rifled with seven deep equal lands and grooves, the bore is as-new. The quarter flat of the breech is stamped with GRRW, CA, L-09, LB touch mark for Les Bennet, and .50. The barrel is fitted with a steel blade front sight and a semi-buckhorn rear sight dovetailed 8-1/4" ahead of the breech.

See the gun at TOTW.
 
I had a GRRW Leman Trade Rifle around 1976, the best muzzleloader I have ever handled, (not bragging), glass bed the stock to help with accuracy and started shooting it all the time. At shooting events, state, local and Friendship we kick butt with this rifle for 4-5 years.

Was unemployed and made the mistake of being short on cash and sold the gun ... !@#$

I kept in touch with the guys at GRRW (after their closing we got to talking, in Dec. 2016 got Doc involved again) and restarted the old firm, Carl Walker built the first rifle (like one mentioned) in Jan 2017. In a four to five year run with four of the original gunsmiths of GRRW (now Called GRRW.CA) we built over 100 guns, not bad for four old guys.
 
Appreciate the suggestions, unfortunately all the models referenced are discontinued. Really disappointed that there seems to be no longer any off the shelf decent option.
look up Dixie gun works out of Union city , TN they have a large selection of flinters and I'd go with a 50 cal . I shoot Dixie Tennessee mountain rifle flint in 50 cal. 1 in 72 twist as I shoot round balls for Deer here in PA. flint season !
 
Custom rifles cost between 5k and 10K. After spending 80 hours assembling and polishing my Kibler Colonial, I feel that I have the quality that easily equals or even surpasses the expensive custom builds that I've seen, held, and shot... all for less than 2K.
58 caliber is awesome! No need for expensive conicals if the ball is big enough.
The 44-in barrel took some getting used to. But velocity return is substantial.
Shoots great, and I love hunting with it.... and even win a few matches with it.
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Custom rifles cost between 5k and 10K. After spending 80 hours assembling and polishing my Kibler Colonial, I feel that I have the quality that easily equals or even surpasses the expensive custom builds that I've seen, held, and shot... all for less than 2K.
58 caliber is awesome! No need for expensive conicals if the ball is big enough.
The 44-in barrel took some getting used to. But velocity return is substantial.
Shoots great, and I love hunting with it.... and even win a few matches with it.
They seem like a good bit of kit, as do Chambers. I was going to get a Chambers myself but by the time I had it freighted here it was only another $1500 to get a full custom gun done here.
 
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