New project omega

[Steelheader323]

Action and trigger assembly actually came pretty clean. I messed with the breech-end of the barrel lastnight and was able to get the threads cleaned up, not sure if I can do the same with the rest of the barrel I know the muzzle to about 4” in is the worst area. The stock is in good shape physically but as I see it looks like crap from the paint. And it’s just a synthetic anyways


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[ronlaughlin]

We have a rust pitted barrel, that surprisingly shoots pretty goood. You can have it, if you want to give it a try. Help with mailing costs is all we ask.

 

[Steelheader323]

How much for shipping? I’m interested

 

[ronlaughlin]

We have never mailed a barrel, nor had a barrel maiied to us. She guesses about $20, but doesn't know exactly.

 

[wolfer]

Put about 100 rounds of paper patched down the tube and that barrel be much better looking and shoot pretty good too, maybe yes or no! Can always do a compound embed in the paper patches and do a firelap job. Can do wonders if you have the want to. Personally for me, it would be on the way to Bestill and have a barrel of choice installed. Have a beater Omega now and saving $ to get a SML 50 done. I have an Omega Bestill Brux 45 in 1-20 twist and it is my favorite hunting SML now. Getting the paint off the stock no problem. Paint remover and a good pressure washer clean it up PDQ. Or try some oven cleaner. Mine eventually get a leafoflage rattlecan camo job anyway. I love a project gun. Have too many going on now. And found a donor 700ML for a great price too, having fun can make you poor. Keep us updated on route and progress. Your friendly SML addict! W

 

[Steelheader323]

Oven cleaner and a lower washer did a number in the paint..i now see why they painted it as it has a good amount of bluing missing..i also soaked the bore in solvent and let the 175 degree water from our power washer flush it out. The barrel looks better..but still a lot of pitting/surface rust in the bore. I know sabots sometimes don’t mind dirty bores but id like to get it as clean as possible , most of the pitting is near the muzzle. So maybe I could cut the barrel down..question is how square would I be able to cut it and recrowning may be a task..or am over thinking that? I would absolutely love to send an omega to bestill and do a custom smokeless built maybe even sabotless..but I may look for a better candidate for that. If I can get this beater to shoot well out to 100yards and get all the work done myself here at my house I will be happy with it. Here’s some pics of how it turned out after some oven cleaner and a lot of hot water under a lot of pressure. Still need to disassemble the action and tighten it up as well

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[HC]

Id say you done alright on that one. It ought to clean up good as it is stainless.

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Guess that’s not stainless after all.


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[fishhawk2700]

Don't know if TC made blued 1-20 twist barrels. Ya might want to check the twist. If it is a 1-20 ya might want to do all ya can to save it.
You're going to want to get the firing pin bushing out of that action if you can. You can buy a new pin, spring, and sometimes a new bushing on Ebay. Ebay will have breech plugs cheap also.

 

[Steelheader323]

Lastnight I tried to tackle the “loose action” I followed the steps in the sticky..it’s still very loose and the falling block doesn’t even line up..wondering if it’s just that worn out :/


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[dwm]

That thing looks about as bad as it can get, Fishawk is right,tomato stake,you can find omegas fairly cheap, good luck

 

[Steelheader323]

Yea just sucks, the .45s are tough to find, I’ll keep the barrel. Action seems like it’s junk. Stock is just a synthetic I guess I could keep for a spare for my other omegas if I wanted to do a dip on it


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[dwm]

It does suck,there is a 45 omega for sale on Armslist,been for sale a long time , he wants 300 but I spoke to him a while back and he said he would take 275. It has a scope on it . Not sure if the quality,blued gun but he told me it was in good shape, good luck

 

[Steelheader323]

We have a rust pitted barrel, that surprisingly shoots pretty goood. You can have it, if you want to give it a try. Help with mailing costs is all we ask.

Sent you a pm Ron



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[dbowling]

might try putting it in a tube full of evaporust for a couple days or more and let it eat all the rust/remaining bluing off then immediately spray down with break cleaner and lightly oil... then (would do this before oiling)tape action off or remove, plug ends and spray barrel with truck bed liner a couple coats, makes for a tough finish for a beater hunting gun, have done it to a couple old Knights that were crap and they looked pretty good when done.

 

[Steelheader323]

Ok, so I haven’t put a finish on the barrel yet but I’ve got the bore cleaned up decent besides the pitting near the muzzle, also got the action tightened up with new grease and hit it assembled into the original stock then outfitted it with a Bushnell scope I have that I know is true, went to the range with it yesterday loaded it up with 70 grains of bh209 Hornady 200grain sst packaged sabots and Winchester W209 primer. Took a few shots to get any kind of pattern going but at 50 yards I was on paper. Groups were terrible so I gradually upped the charge ended up going up to 95 grains. Still the best groups I had was only 4” at 50 yards! Not something I’m really ok with. So today I’m going to swap breech plugs with a new one. Also going to take another scope with me just to be safe, hopefully I can get some better results so I can feel more comfortable about continuing the build. Btw I tried to to shoot different groups with dirty bore vs cleaning it each shot and had no effect on tightening up the group actually the dirty bore shot better at just under 4” with 85 grains of powder


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[ronlaughlin]

Here is the link to a thread about the rifle with the RUSTY BARREL when i first bought the rifle, and shot it. It kinda embarrasses me i was so gullible, and fooled by the appearance of the rifle. It did shoot pretty good though. Have since dismantled the rifle, and only the barrel is left. I noticed i posted the powder charge as a weight; the volume equivalent for that lot of powder is 80g.

 

[dbowling]

cut the barrel off behind the pitting and recrown it, nothing to lose by doing it just make sure to get crown square with bore..

Ok, so I haven’t put a finish on the barrel yet but I’ve got the bore cleaned up decent besides the pitting near the muzzle, also got the action tightened up with new grease and hit it assembled into the original stock then outfitted it with a Bushnell scope I have that I know is true, went to the range with it yesterday loaded it up with 70 grains of bh209 Hornady 200grain sst packaged sabots and Winchester W209 primer. Took a few shots to get any kind of pattern going but at 50 yards I was on paper. Groups were terrible so I gradually upped the charge ended up going up to 95 grains. Still the best groups I had was only 4” at 50 yards! Not something I’m really ok with. So today I’m going to swap breech plugs with a new one. Also going to take another scope with me just to be safe, hopefully I can get some better results so I can feel more comfortable about continuing the build. Btw I tried to to shoot different groups with dirty bore vs cleaning it each shot and had no effect on tightening up the group actually the dirty bore shot better at just under 4” with 85 grains of powder


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[Steelheader323]

Ron I sent you another pm...as for this .45 barrel..I went back tonight..same results with a brand new breech plug..not much available around here for .45 muzzleloader stuff...it’s either these 200grain sst or the powerbelt wich I do not want to even try..just personal preference their. I’m very tempted to go to the bench and lop off that last 5-6 inches of the barrel where it’s pitted so bad, level it out and recrown it..at this point I don’t think I have much to lose :/ but while it’s on my mind. What’s it take to shoot sabotless? Can flat base bullets such as the sst, xtp, or Barnes bullets be shot sabotless on their own? And with bh209?


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[ronlaughlin]

......I’m very tempted to go to the bench and lop off that last 5-6 inches of the barrel where it’s pitted so bad, level it out and recrown it..at this point I don’t think I have much to lose........just not sure on how to go about doing it

Here is an uncorrect way to cut your barrel off, but it has kinda worked OK for me. Photos i took this afternoon......


semisane showed us how to use the tubing cutter to mark a square line around the barrel.

Then a hacksaw was used to cut the barrel leaving the mark for reference.

The cut was quite rough, and not perfectly square so a sander was used to make things smoother, and more square. Then a file used to make the cut smoother yet.

Then a dull countersink was used to remove the burr at the rifling.

About two month ago i used the same method to remove the QLA from a good barrel, so i could use conical bullet. The following two photo are from then, not today. That rifle seems to shoot decent.

The soot at the rifling is kinda uniform indicating a sorta good crown. The target was shot six times at 100 yard using 420g No Excuse bullets. Load was 75g Blackhorn.

 

[Steelheader323]

I’m actually in the process of cutting down the barrel as we speak and got instructions very similar to yours. I’ll post pics shortly, I’m thinking with this .45 I wanna go sabotless to expand options with what u can shoot. Just trying to get a good 100yard shooter from this thing. I’ve read up in it a little bit. Some speak of knurling a bullet with a couple of files? Does this technique down size the bullet so it fits better?


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