Agreed. I know my maximum bow range and I know the arc where a deer needs to step into to be in range. I have known points that I use for references and have added a stick with tape on it to help me in occasion. My problem lately has been, they were too close . Just gotta look down the arrow.Bowhunting from a stand that ive hunted before ive ranged everthing a 1000 times and know the ranges by heart. But if im in a new stand or a buddies stand, i take my rangefinder and check everything. In that second when you get to take the shot it sure helps to already know that distance without having to guess. But the more i do it the better i get at guesstimating the distances. Im also doing it for ML hunting but i dont range as many things, just enough to establish a perimeter? that Im comfortable shooting to, stuff thats within PBR.
I too use PBR.I have for years now especially with a ML used a system called Point Blank Range (PBR). For a muzzleloader I use a 6" PBR, meaning through a given range the bullet will never be more than 3" high or 3" low while sighting dead on or Point of Aim (POA).
Point-blank range is the distance between a weapon and a target of a given size its projectile is expected to strike without adjusting the weapon's elevation. Point-blank range will vary by a weapon's external ballistics characteristics and target chosen. A weapon with a flatter trajectory will permit a longer maximum point-blank range for a given target size, while a larger target will allow a longer point-blank range for a given weapon.
Here is a calculator I just found on the net.. and I am sure there are others
ShootersCalculator.com | Point Blank Range Calculator
In my case that means most of rifle will be about 3" high @ 100 and 3" low @ 175 to 90 depending on weight of bullet and powder charge or velocity. This little thing allows me to shoot 0 to 200 without much thought or scope adjusting.
This is a typical ballistic sheet on one of my loads with the PBR built in..
The chart shows my actual zero range is 160 yards and I can shoot to 196 yards and be 3" LOW. You can also the expected Point of Impact -POI at other ranges on the sheet
Hope this makes some sense...
X2I know that if I am about 3" high at 100 that I will be really close to zero at 150 - 160 yards. My self-administered range for a dear shot is right at the 150 range and for it extends 175- 200 when the conditions are right.
You are spot on. It’s all about bullet placement and performance for a quick kill.Fishbc
I really do agree with the bulk of your writing.
For me with just about any of my Knights I will shoot a 3 shoot all within an 1 1/4" -1 1/2" I base the 3" PBR on the middle of the group. I am old really old! and I am not a target shooter, I am a hunter.
I know that if I am about 3" high at 100 that I will be really close to zero at 150 - 160 yards. My self-administered range for a dear shot is right at the 150 range and for elk it extends 175- 200 when the conditions are right.
I am comfortable with all of this because of the bullet I use and what they do when they hit the target. This confidence allows me to off on my chosen target spot on the animal by 3 even 4" - up or down with my shot. I am aiming for approximately 3" inches above the leg joint. This should put the shot just above the heart and a few inches below the spine. The bullets I use send a petal of two into the spine and down the animal really rapidly. If not, the bullet petals will normally blow up the heart and lungs. In addition, the bullet will create a tremendous amount of Hydrostatic pressure destroying internals and also pass entirely through the animal. Creating a great blood trail. But I must admit I hate tracking, I really want the spine petal(s) to down the animal on the spot.
This is what I am after
Hope this makes some sense.
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