50 cal I mold from Accurate

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Sorry you got no replies as I would have also been interested in the answer. Just getting started in the art of making my own bullets also..
 
You can get just about any shape in any diameter you want from Accurate. On the check out page you are asked what alloy you are going to use (yes it matters) and what diameter you want. Generally speaking, the design is scaled up or down to you needs.

I ordered a mold with two different designs, both were scaled to 0.510 +-0.001 and those things both drop dead on 0.511 which means I barely need to size them for the airgun I intend to use them in. They shoot pretty good to. The boat tail is around 430 grains, and the other around 380 grains. And yes I did say airgun.
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I bought this in aluminum and it is THE BEST mold I have in my collection. The inside surfaces are just perfect! It heats fast, fills properly, and they drop right out on size for the whole batch. Money well spent in my opinion. Lee molds are my second favorite for similar reasons, but they do show machine marks so harder to drop by a small amount.
 
I have no direct knowledge of the CVA V2 but what I can say is that if it has a twist of 1-28 it should shoot the "I" bullet very well. You just have to measure your bore and order the correct size. I ordered mine with a plus tolerance using 1-40 lead mix. My rifle has a bore of .501 so I ordered with a mold body diameter of .501 + . They drop from the mold, using 1-40, at .503 and I size them to .501. I have 2 different GM LRH barrels with a 1-28 twist .This bullet shoots great in both of them. 80 grains Swiss FFG, 1 54 cal wool wad over powder followed by the lubed "I" bullet. Fire shot, look through spotter, smile and repeat. The key is knowing what your bore size and what you need to order your mold at.
 
Under .512 you can get most sizes in the cheap Lee sizing dies, so size might not be the biggest concern. But with these large rounds, sizing down 0.005 is a big ask, at least with the little hand held press I use. Need to two step them that far.
 
Under .512 you can get most sizes in the cheap Lee sizing dies, so size might not be the biggest concern. But with these large rounds, sizing down 0.005 is a big ask, at least with the little hand held press I use. Need to two step them that far.
I use a Lyman 450 lube/sizer ,with a 501 it sizes/lubes easy with lead
 
Greg E, your bullet on the left with no lube grooves, looks like it would be great for a sabot? What kind of bullet mold was that? Ty
 
Not sure what it was originally made for, but I bet it might be really good either patched or sabot in a 54.

I think this is it
https://www.accuratemolds.com/bullet_detail.php?bullet=51-375Q
I'll have to weight it again, I might be thinking it is heavier than it really is, definitely a little over 400gr in pure lead. Hoping it will be accurate and give 600 foot pounds out of the airgun.
 
From what I read at accurate molds, they talk about bullet weight according to clip on wheel weights. I looked at some wheel weights the other day, they looked more like steel and plastic vs. lead. Do you people still use todays wheel weights? Ty
 
From what I read at accurate molds, they talk about bullet weight according to clip on wheel weights. I looked at some wheel weights the other day, they looked more like steel and plastic vs. lead. Do you people still use todays wheel weights? Ty
I do as store bought alloy is expensive for my needs and I planned ahead , pure is another story cause it gets used a lot more /Ed
 
You won't find buckets of lead wheel weight anymore, almost everything has gone to powder coated steel with sticky tape. If you find clip on weights, they may be a different metal like zinc or tin alloy.

Wheel weight has a known alloy that you can buy or mix yourself.
 
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