casper said:
Shawn T, I don't have a camera or for that matter computer savy to post pictures, but if you GOOGLE knight Revolution recall there are a lot of good pictures there. I think if I tap out the 2 top roll pins that plunger assembly will come out and I can look for a stiffer spring set up. If I can stop the blow by and change to the 900024 plug or get mine modified I should be good to go. One other problem is leaking around the plug itself, which I can stop with a bronze thrust washer. Thanks guys for all your help. :yeah:
Never thought to actually ask this, but have you tried BH209 yet in the rifle or just assuming it will not fire?
The KRB also uses the domed plug too so you may not "Have" to install the ventliner.
Here is another test for you to try before you start tinkering. Take a DRY patch put it on the jag of the ramrod and run that down the barrel till it stops at the breech plug (NO CHARGE) and leave it there. Place a little piece of tape on the rod even with the muzzle. Next put in a primed FPJ and while pointing in a safe direction pull the trigger, don't worry the rod is not gong to leave the barrel just don't point it at someone close. :wink: Now measure how far the rod moved up the bore. IF it only moves and half inch or so then you may have a good bit of leakage where it is not sealing well. IF it moves say 4 or 5 inches, then Like Stude283 said load up a charge of BH and try it.
When I first started working on my KRB7 I was just trying to get the thing to shoot clean in the action with 777. Smoke would roll out of the action of this rifle leaving the inside of the action real dirty. I was not trying to shoot BH209 then, but Hornet22savage was and was having issues reliable ignition. We found once we did the 2 mods both were not only clean in the action but even I could shoot BH209 with the Stock Knight Flashhole (Domed plug).
When I tried the above test I don't remember the rod moving more that about an half inch or so (Very little) and after the mods (O-Ring was the main fix) then that rod moved about 6 to 7 inches, indicating a much improved seal on the primer. :shock: The heavier spring was to maintain more forward pressure on the block under fire. Was it really absolutely needed, don't know but I like the heavier spring tension holding the block forward tighter to maintain that primer seal. The O-ring fix will not apply to the Revolution since it only can shoot the FPJ and can't shoot Naked primer. Are you sure that the block on yours is moving back under fire. I know that the block on those don't sit as high as the KRB. IF there is a gap between the action cutout and the block when it is in the closed/fire position you could try wedging something (Like a strip of stiff plastic or some compressed cardboard, strip of brass something that will not damage the action) in the cutout between the block and the back of the cut out to stop the blocks rearward movement. If it seals up better and it is much more clean then you know for sure that the block is moving under fire and allowing some leakage, IF it is still dirty, then a heavier spring by itself will not help. and you would need to investigate farther.
There can be a good bit of variation in one rifle to another and I personally think that Knights QC in the Revolution and KRB were getting a bit off by then. A good example here is since Stude283 only needed the o-ring in his KRB then the tolerance's on his rifle work to his advantage so that he did not need to go farther to get good ignition, whereas for me just installing the o-ring pushed the block to far back and then it interfered with the hammer, so I also had to deepen the pocket a bit to correct that. In My MK-95's there is .006 differences in the actions and plugs so that the new Brass cases I am now working with do not work between 2 of the same model rifles.
I would be real interested in seeing how far the rod moves in the current stock form. Try that and let us know.
As for sealing around your breech plug, have you tried using Teflon tape? If not try it before putting a washer down onto the flange in the barrel. If you look at the face of the plug you can see a "Ring" where it has sat on the flange down in the barrel. Start wrapping the tape so that you have overlap that you can press down onto the face of the plug covering that ring fully. It will help maintain a good seal on that plug face and the flange in the barrel. Once you have the plug wrapped use a finger nail in the threads and twist the plug so that you push the tape down into them. Then install it as normal.