Cleaning between shots with Sabot

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jevyod

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So I am still new to this, started collecting what I need. I will start the journey by trying Harvester sabots, and a lead 452-300 bullet. One thing that seems to come up periodically is how often to clean. Am I right that with shooting Sabots I will need to clean every 2-3 shots? Why is that? Do the lubed bullets help prevent as much build-up of powder? And how thorough do I need to clean between shots using sabots? I Think I remember reading something of soaking patches in Windex and running them through? Is this sufficient? Is this just a range thing and I will need to use another cleaner (Butchs bore shine?) after I get back from the range? Also, is there a special solvent that need to be used for black powder? I will likely use Pyrodex powder since it is cheap and easy to find. I might also look more locally for T7 powder. My local Dick's had it for 50 bucks a lb which I thought was pricy.
As an aside, I have another question concerning measuring powder. I see that I need to measure powder by volume, not by weight. What is a good measuring device to use to measure BP substitutes by volume?
Thanks for your help, sorry about all the questions.
 
I spit patch between every shot no matter what powder, bullet, sabot, Round ball, Im shooting. Im just trying to keep my barrel consistent for better accuracy. I may be wasting my time but it works in my head and on targets so I do it.

I dont do marathon shoots. I shoot 5-6 at a time to sight in and check accuracy. Then 2-3 times to confirm before hunting.

Measuring by volume is less accurate than weight. At least IMHO. Doesn't mean you cant get good loads by volume. Just be consistent in how you measure it. Consistent, that's the key, The same, the same, the same, the same, every time.

Also makes a difference on what accuracy you desire or need. I do recommend getting the most accurate load for your gun. The reason is if you hunt long enough you will be challenged with a difficult shot. The success or failure of that shot depends on how accurate your gun is. And you can bet it will be the animal you want to get. It will happen.


go to Muzzleloader.com1670427786714.png
type in measure. Some devices will show up.
1670427786714.png
 
I always have a bottle of Windex when I'm at the range.
I usually swab with one damp patch and two dry after each shot.
Depending on which gun and powder I'm using dictates how I'll clean up at home.
Black powder, triple 7, Pyrodex, I just use water and a dash of dish soap for cleaning. Don't need anything too fancy for these powders.
When I'm using Blackhorn and a inline, I pretty much just use the windex for cleaning. Followed by a light oil.
 
So I am still new to this, started collecting what I need. I will start the journey by trying Harvester sabots, and a lead 452-300 bullet. One thing that seems to come up periodically is how often to clean. Am I right that with shooting Sabots I will need to clean every 2-3 shots? Why is that? Do the lubed bullets help prevent as much build-up of powder? And how thorough do I need to clean between shots using sabots? I Think I remember reading something of soaking patches in Windex and running them through? Is this sufficient? Is this just a range thing and I will need to use another cleaner (Butchs bore shine?) after I get back from the range? Also, is there a special solvent that need to be used for black powder? I will likely use Pyrodex powder since it is cheap and easy to find. I might also look more locally for T7 powder. My local Dick's had it for 50 bucks a lb which I thought was pricy.
As an aside, I have another question concerning measuring powder. I see that I need to measure powder by volume, not by weight. What is a good measuring device to use to measure BP substitutes by volume?
Thanks for your help, sorry about all the questions.
Grafs has 777 a lot cheaper than that. Buy 4# and only pay that hazmat fee once.

I just ordered 4# of powder, $145sh.

$12.50 flat rate fixed shipping and a $23.50 hazmat fee.
 
I have only ever shot a few sabots but I believe plastic is the issue.

I may take the sabot plunge but I am really wanting to try heavy conical. My sizing kit arrived from No Excuses yesterday so I need to slug the barrel on the Optima and see what I need to size my bullets to.

I actually like the idea of a conical over a round ball just because that is one less item to deal with. Granted a patch isn't hard to keep track of or cut but just another step and something else to have to keep stocked up on.
 
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The only thing that makes me hesitate to using something like a REAL bullet from lee is he messy lube. Plus not sure how much speed and accuracy I could get out of a 1:28 twist barrel
 
Plastic sabot fouling has never been an issue for me. I’ve read posts concerning plastic fouling but don’t know anyone who’s actually experienced it.

I haven’t shot Pyrodex in 20 years but when I did, I spit-patched between shots for better accuracy. (Triple seven is a much better choice IMO.) Certainly not necessary to patch between every shot. You should be able to shoot several shots before loading gets harder or accuracy drops off. But, you’ll really just need to experiment.
 
I'm a Maxi guy. After shooting them for decades, I tried various sabots and found I had to clean barrel more often while getting a smaller diameter bullet that weighed less than my maxis. Most sabots shot well but in the long run I decided that if it ain't broke don't fix it. I just cast up 800 maxis and sold all of my saboted bullets.
BTW if you don't like messy stuff you are in the wrong hobby. Black powder and its cousins can be messy. I always take several paper towels to the range with me. Good luck and enjoy shooting whichever projectiles you settle on.
 
The only thing that makes me hesitate to using something like a REAL bullet from lee is he messy lube. Plus not sure how much speed and accuracy I could get out of a 1:28 twist barrel
A REAL is short for caliber so it can shoot ok in 1-48s with a typical load. In a 1-28, you will want to shoot them slower more than likely. Other than that they may shoot.

If you are using any sub besides BH209 you will more than likely need to swab no matter what projectile you choose. Sabots maybe more often just because they fit tighter than most other options.
 
If you are using any sub besides BH209 you will more than likely need to swab no matter what projectile you choose. Sabots maybe more often just because they fit tighter than most other options.
THIS ^^^

I just spit patch between shots with subs other than BH209. It makes loading easier, knocks down the crud and/or crud ring. Sabots do typically fit tight, which magnifies when the bore is dirty.
 
A REAL is short for caliber so it can shoot ok in 1-48s with a typical load. In a 1-28, you will want to shoot them slower more than likely. Other than that they may shoot.

If you are using any sub besides BH209 you will more than likely need to swab no matter what projectile you choose. Sabots maybe more often just because they fit tighter than most other options.
Agree!
 
The T/C clear view measure is what I prefer. Since it's clear you can tell when it's empty. Powder can bridge in the measure and if not careful you could end up with an undercharged load.
 
When I started shooting muzzleloaders, I used Triple Seven and quickly found out that I needed to clean the barrel after every shot or I risked not being able to seat the bullet on top of the charge. Around 2010 or 2011, I bought a new T/C Impact and never used anything other than BH 209 in it. I found that I seldom needed to clean the barrel. Nowadays, I clean the barrel after I shoot the rifle, but not between shots. I don't know when I will shoot again, so I want the barrel to be clean and oiled until I shoot again. I normally leave an oily patch in the muzzle and swab the barrel with a dry patch before I load the next round.
 
If I’m just playing bench shooting I never swab but that being said I always start with a clean gun and I mean clean. And if you always start that way in a hunting situation the results should always be the same
 

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