I read on another thread about someone cutting and re-threading a ramrod. I have one that CVA set me for my Kodiak that is 1 inch too long and I'd like to cut it down. Can someone tell me what size tap/die that it takes to do this with? Its an extendable ramrod and I'd like to cut it down to fit my Knight. (CVA is suposed to send me the correct size one.) Does it make a difference what its made of, aluminum or fiber/plastic? Thanks.
Cutting off and re-threading a ramrod question
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The threads for most jags and brushes are 10/32. The factory rods are 10/32 obviously. 
Please let someone confirm that as well.
Please let someone confirm that as well.plastic
plastic is horrible.. whippy etc. I bought 2 new RR and am going to buy 2 more of the aluminum TC rods. If anyone else has a suggestion for a Pro Hunter and a flintlock rod that is not bendy, whippy I will ladly take it!
plastic is horrible.. whippy etc. I bought 2 new RR and am going to buy 2 more of the aluminum TC rods. If anyone else has a suggestion for a Pro Hunter and a flintlock rod that is not bendy, whippy I will ladly take it!
Walmart had the T/C rods for $4.00 each last time I looked. They can be cut to any length before the ends are secured. Most newer stuff is 10-32, I prefer the 8-32 stuff, and I have lots of stuff that's 8-32 that I've had for 30 years or so.
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Those rods at Wal-Mart are pretty much junk, sorry.
Cut the rod end opposite the extension end. If it is solid aluminum, you could tap the cut end 10-32, or just not worry about it. If it isn't solid metal, I wouldn't mess with it.
Cain's Outdoor SuperRods-Hunter are good rods. They do bend but not like some of the plastic rods (they're made of Delrin last I knew). He makes them in lots of lengths and diameters. Great people too!
http://www.cainsoutdoor.com/shop/product.asp select SuperRods - Hunter from the drop down category list.
RMC will make solid rods to fit. http://rmcsports.com/catalog.htm
Cut the rod end opposite the extension end. If it is solid aluminum, you could tap the cut end 10-32, or just not worry about it. If it isn't solid metal, I wouldn't mess with it.
Cain's Outdoor SuperRods-Hunter are good rods. They do bend but not like some of the plastic rods (they're made of Delrin last I knew). He makes them in lots of lengths and diameters. Great people too!
http://www.cainsoutdoor.com/shop/product.asp select SuperRods - Hunter from the drop down category list.
RMC will make solid rods to fit. http://rmcsports.com/catalog.htm
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johnpb
The most common threadsize for a muzzleloader is as Grouse mentioned 10/32. So you would need a 10/32 tap and I would suggest a inexpensive tap handle. The tap drill bit should be a #21 (0.159")
On a solid metal ram rod this is a fairly easy procedure. I would suggest if you have not done it before to practice on something first.
The rod that Swampman is talking about @ Wal-Mart is probably a 'Flint River' metal rod. It is a hollow aluminum shaft that you cut to fit then you install a pressure tip into the end you cut. I use this rod on most of my ML's - it is good for loading (if you are not hammering the projectile down) and patching while hunting but it might not be satisfactory for range work or for pulling a projectile.
Here is a picture of one that cut down installed a TC super jag in for one of my ML's. Ignore the Shotgun in the background it just happened to be in the cradle..
The most common threadsize for a muzzleloader is as Grouse mentioned 10/32. So you would need a 10/32 tap and I would suggest a inexpensive tap handle. The tap drill bit should be a #21 (0.159")
On a solid metal ram rod this is a fairly easy procedure. I would suggest if you have not done it before to practice on something first.
The rod that Swampman is talking about @ Wal-Mart is probably a 'Flint River' metal rod. It is a hollow aluminum shaft that you cut to fit then you install a pressure tip into the end you cut. I use this rod on most of my ML's - it is good for loading (if you are not hammering the projectile down) and patching while hunting but it might not be satisfactory for range work or for pulling a projectile.
Here is a picture of one that cut down installed a TC super jag in for one of my ML's. Ignore the Shotgun in the background it just happened to be in the cradle..
Swampman
Mark stay away from the hollow Walmart rods they are worse than the old wood ones for getting people hurt.
If you want a good rod go to a good hardware store and get a solid aluminium rod cut it the length you need.
Put it in the chuck of your drill press turn your table sideways and adj until you can clamp close to the chuck drill a hole with a number 21[.159] drill then tap with a 10-32 tap.
I always drill deep enough to leave room for shavings. Lee
Mark stay away from the hollow Walmart rods they are worse than the old wood ones for getting people hurt.
If you want a good rod go to a good hardware store and get a solid aluminium rod cut it the length you need.
Put it in the chuck of your drill press turn your table sideways and adj until you can clamp close to the chuck drill a hole with a number 21[.159] drill then tap with a 10-32 tap.
I always drill deep enough to leave room for shavings. Lee
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Swampman
I do two things to the end that is driven into the shaft. I center punch the end that is going into the shaft in 5 or 6 spots. The center punch creates sharp edges that will cut into and add holding strength as you drive it in. I also glue it.
They have worked very well and continue to work for me. I do not load anything that requires so much force that you would be in any jeporady of it breaking or bending and let's face how many time would you even use that rod. For me it is a hunting rod other than that it is never used.
Lee
I guess I am wondering why you think they might be so bad? In my case the only thing they are used for is seating a sabot/projectile and/or damp patching a barrel while hunting - and now that I think of how often do you even do that while hunting?
I do two things to the end that is driven into the shaft. I center punch the end that is going into the shaft in 5 or 6 spots. The center punch creates sharp edges that will cut into and add holding strength as you drive it in. I also glue it.
They have worked very well and continue to work for me. I do not load anything that requires so much force that you would be in any jeporady of it breaking or bending and let's face how many time would you even use that rod. For me it is a hunting rod other than that it is never used.
Lee
I guess I am wondering why you think they might be so bad? In my case the only thing they are used for is seating a sabot/projectile and/or damp patching a barrel while hunting - and now that I think of how often do you even do that while hunting?
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