Lehigh .458x260CF Sabotless

Modern Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Modern Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

sabotloader

Keep Shooting Muzzleloaders - They are a Blast
Supporting member
*
Joined
May 19, 2005
Messages
9,205
Reaction score
1,736
A forum member here posted about a new ML bullet offering from Lehigh Defense.

It was a .458x260CF-HP Sabotless. When I first read about it I was sure it was a mistake and should have been listed a .45x260CF. I sent an email to Lehigh and got an answer back. It is a .458 bullet, built for a true 45-70 rifle barrel. One of the reason that Lehigh went this way is that there a lot true 45-70 rifle barrels that have been converted and modified for muzzleloader application. There are 2 main differences between the true 45-70 barrel and 45 ML barrel.

1. The 45-70 rifle barrel is manufactured to much tighter tolerances than a ML barrel
2. The grooves in a 45-70 barrel are deeper than in a manufactured ML barrel.

Normally the grooves are more shallow in a ML barrel and the bore diameter can vary over a wider tolerance range. With that in mind know that the .458x260 is also built to tighter tolerances of the 45-70 barrel.

This is the new bullet inserted into the crown of my Knight 45 cal. Super DISC. I was really curious if I could load this bullet in my rifle.

45-260-Sabotless.jpg


My DISC measures .452 +/- from land to land, so you can see the bullet inserted into the crown. It very easily but stops at the first drive barb on the bullet. To get it through the crown it takes 2-3 really hard smacks on my short starter. Once through the crown, the bullet will then go down the bore very easily with a range rod. Almost to easy but tight enough to be gripping the lands into the grooves.

The drive barbs on a new bullet do measure .458 or with my micrometer.

45x260-Barbs.jpg


Because of the effort needed to get the bullet through the crown I wondered if I could re-size the barbs to a lesser diameter. My search for a re-sizing die lead me to an inexpensive Lee die. When I pushed the bullet through the die it did take an effort. But... it worked.

454-Resizing.jpg


After re-sizing the bullet drive barbs were reduced to .4535. Pushing this through the crown of the rifle was greatly reduced and could be easily loaded while hunting. Still it is advantageous to use a short starter.

Reized-to-453.jpg


My next question... what about those of you that have tighter bores and they are out there... Some CVA owners have suggested their bores are .499 land to land. My next step was to re-size the .453 to .451.

Resized-to-451.jpg


With these re-sizing experiments - I really think these bullets could almost be a 'universal' or 'generic' bullet. Fitting many different 45 cal. ML's on the market.
Best part! I really believe these are excellent hunting bullets with great Terminal Performance.

I did get an opportunity to get out and so some shooting last week... I confirmed their accuracy at 100 yards and even got conned into shooting a 400 yard gong! Shot at it 3 times first shot was way off the next two went just over the top of the gong, which was good for me as I was truly guessing through the scope.

260-Shoot-1.jpg


Resizing.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
458 barbs might pop into the lands with a good pop on the short starter. Grooves should be around .458. Once it starts it should not be a problem. Its the actual bullet OD that is the deal breaker in a tight bore like mine. .4495-.450 should be fine for the vast majority of 45cal bores. Barbs around .454 should also be ok especially with a little bit of bore fouling.

I would suggest one thing for SML use.....MUCH shallower cup on the powder side. The additional weight added is fine but some of the loads they/we shoot might damage the "skirt".
 
The skirt may be a problem running through most sizing dies. I suppose a person would need to grind a rod or make something to sit on top of the push shaft ?
 
The skirt may be a problem running through most sizing dies. I suppose a person would need to grind a rod or make something to sit on top of the push shaft ?

Correct.. I shaped the nose of the push shaft to fit the base of the bullet. This time I just fashioned a push rod to fit and pushed the bullet through.

The best part is that they are not that difficult to get through the resizer since you are only reducing the size of the drive barbs and not the whole bullet.
 
Just push it through base first instead of nose first

Lee does sell smaller pusher rods as parts too.
 
I do push the bullet through - nose first and put the push rod up into the powder cup base and force the bullet through the sizer. Set the push rod in the cup and tap it through with a plastic mallet

Ready-to-go-in.jpg
 
Im saying try pushing it base/skirt first through the die. Use the included Lee push rod on the nose of the bullet. The resistance should not be so great it will damage the nose of the bullet. I use a cheap Lee hand press for small sizing jobs. Bullets go through it like butter as long as its not a huge jump in size and material.
 
Im saying try pushing it base/skirt first through the die. Use the included Lee push rod on the nose of the bullet. The resistance should not be so great it will damage the nose of the bullet. I use a cheap Lee hand press for small sizing jobs. Bullets go through it like butter as long as its not a huge jump in size and material.

Never even thought about pushing through with the nose first... And like you said it doesn't take much to get it through the die.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top