How do you guys that use moose milk apply it to your patches? Do you spritz every patch before you load? Soak/spritz several patches beforehand and store them in something? Never used a sidelock before and am going to try and get one ready later this summer to use this fall and was just wanting some tips from you more experienced types. FYI will be using a TC hawken .54 caliber and plan on shooting Pyrodex RS with patch and roundball.Thanks!!
moose milk application
- Thread starter jakesdad
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unlike as used when cleaning out a muzzleloader - where the moose milk is used wet (sprayed or soaked) - moose milk for patching is usually used as a "dry lube", as perfected by dutch schoultz. the dry patch formula is ballistol (water soluble oil) and water. a typical formula is 1:6 which is, by volume, 1 part ballistol and 6 parts of pure distilled water. you could test out more or less percentage of water. soak the patch strips well, lie them down flat and LEVEL so the oil will not migrate more to one side of the strip which will change the amount of oil throughout the patch strip, and allow the water to evaporate. the results are strips of 100% cotton or linen that feel dry to the touch but still contain the ballistol. since there is a minimum of oil in the patch strips, it will be mandatory to wipe out the fouling between shots. if you don't do this, you will not be a happy camper for many reasons that will quickly become all too obvious. if you don't want to administer any fouling issues between shots, wet lube the patching before loading and use a powder that will foul less. patch strips and not patches? the reason for wanting to use patch strips that are cut at the muzzle is that the resulting patch that hugs the ball will always be concentric - not always so if precut patching is used. last thought - if at all possible, use real black powder. it really and truly is the better propellent for traditional muzzleloaders and the fouling control and cleanup is as easier - but typically lots easier and faster - than bp subs. do enjoy!
I have an extra piece of laminate flooring that I turn over and use the back side of to lay out my patch strips to dry. It's really smooth and just the right length for my strips. Strips turn out very uniform. Some guys use a window screen to lay them out to dry.
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When I am on the range, I spritz. A simple squirt or two. I put the moose milk in an empty (easy to come by here) insect repellent bottle with a pump spray nozzle. I hold the strip of patch material in my hand and spritz it. Then lay the strip of patch material over the muzzle, put a ball in the center, knock the ball under the crown of the muzzle, then cut the remaining patch material off.
When its winter and I want a dry patch ... I soak the patch material in a jar of moose milk then ring the excess out with my fingers. Then on an old window screen, I lay that soaked patch strip on it and set it near the wood stove. Once dry, the patch strip "feels" dry but you can feel the oil in the material. Just use it like the spritz material. Store it in a zip lock bag, but don't make more then you can use. If you leave it in that zip lock, it will start to rot. Open that bag and you will regret it. It stinks when it starts to rot.
When its winter and I want a dry patch ... I soak the patch material in a jar of moose milk then ring the excess out with my fingers. Then on an old window screen, I lay that soaked patch strip on it and set it near the wood stove. Once dry, the patch strip "feels" dry but you can feel the oil in the material. Just use it like the spritz material. Store it in a zip lock bag, but don't make more then you can use. If you leave it in that zip lock, it will start to rot. Open that bag and you will regret it. It stinks when it starts to rot.
