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[jevyod]

Good day! New to this forum, I am on a few other hunting/shooting forums. I have hunted for 25 years with a rifle and 21 with a bow. Recently I find myself not enjoying archery. I am more of a gun guy, I handload and cast, and shoot maybe 750-1000 rounds of rifle a year. I am planning on selling my bow and purchasing a muzzleloader for the early season in Pa. I want to go cheap, since I am not sure how well I will enjoy it. I hear good things about the CVA wolf and am considering that one. I will likely scope it. Is there a good entry level scope that holds up to muzzleloader recoil? Also the thing that really draws me to the early inline season is the ability to use sabots and shoot cast bullets. I am looking at getting a Lee 452-300 mold and some Harvester crush sabots. Would that work with a CVA? In going that direction is pure lead a benefit over straight clip on wheel weights?
My biggest question is what propellant? I would like to start with something readily available and not too pricy. I am not opposed to pouring the powder down the barrel instead of using pellets.
I borrowed an inline this year, and the guy had purchased some Hornady??? bullets and sabots. They loaded incredibly hard. In reading later, maybe cleaning the barrel after every shot at the range would have helped that. Or is that just a weakness of using sabots?
Those are a few things that I am pondering and seeking guidance on. Thanks for your time!

 

[deermanok]

Welcome from Oklahoma.
I don't cast so I can't help with that question.
For powder, get whatever is available. Pyrodex, Triple 7 or real black. Any of these are the most economical.
I recently bought a Bushnell dusk and dawn scope for my CVA Optima V2 rifle.
I got it on sale for 80 bucks and it is holding up well.
Harvester has a lot of different sabots available, so it's just a matter of getting the one that fits best.
Good luck and good shooting.

 

[4stringdude]

Welcome aboard from the Hoosier State!!

You will get lots of advice from folks on this site. Eventually you will simply have to try out a few combinations of powder and bullet to see what you, and your rifle like. Muzzleloaders can be very particular about a pet load that works best.

I'm partial to all lead conical bullets. Particularly the Hornady Great Plains. Others prefer sabots. No one is wrong, as it comes down to personal preference. You will find the same with powder preference. I shoot Pyrodex RS, mainly because it is economical and, usually, available.

Be certain to check all hunting laws for your state.

Good hunting.

 

[snapbang]

Good advice above. Im a cheap guy myslf and it doesnt take expensive muzzle loaders to kill deer. The Wolf will serve you well. You will have to put in some range time to get the best accuracy. Once you have it your golden.

 

[HC]

To the brotherhood

 

[CGhost]

Welcome from NC! You will enjoy your stay here lots of helpful and very nice people here! These guys' know what they are talking about!

 

[FredB]

I'd say the first thing is to make sure what's legal in your state. I was thinking Pennsylvania was pretty restrictive, but I could be very wrong about that. Idaho is very restrictive, but there are plenty of supplies in the stores that cannot be legally used in muzzleloader only hunts, so you can't go by that.
Any scope that's built for a centerfire deer rifle should handle the recoil. One consideration is that you may have to wrap part of the scope tube to prevent scorching. Like a piece of leather, or something. At least that was an issue when I scoped a Knight MK85, using #11 percussion caps, and I think that's not uncommon. I don't know about primers, if you're using those.
I use Pyrodex, mostly because it's available, and it works fine. I wouldn't use pellets, even if it were legal here, because I've seen as little as 5 grains by volume make a BIG difference in accuracy.
I've never used a Wolf, but people seem to like them. By reputation, I'd guess they are basic, and effective.
Welcome.

 

[ThreePoint]

Hello and welcome from Coastal North Carolina.

 

[jevyod]

This would be early muzzleloader season which is fairly open as to what is allowed. The late flintlock season is very restrictive.

I'd say the first thing is to make sure what's legal in your state. I was thinking Pennsylvania was pretty restrictive, but I could be very wrong about that. Idaho is very restrictive, but there are plenty of supplies in the stores that cannot be legally used in muzzleloader only hunts, so you can't go by that.
Any scope that's built for a centerfire deer rifle should handle the recoil. One consideration is that you may have to wrap part of the scope tube to prevent scorching. Like a piece of leather, or something. At least that was an issue when I scoped a Knight MK85, using #11 percussion caps, and I think that's not uncommon. I don't know about primers, if you're using those.
I use Pyrodex, mostly because it's available, and it works fine. I wouldn't use pellets, even if it were legal here, because I've seen as little as 5 grains by volume make a BIG difference in accuracy.
I've never used a Wolf, but people seem to like them. By reputation, I'd guess they are basic, and effective.
Welcome.

 

[anonymouscowherd]

If you are in PA and going to get a ML, I'd go whole hog and get a flintlock so you can use it in the after-xmas flintlock only season....

And if I were gonna do that I'd get one of the PA Pellet models from RMC Ox-Yoke - Flintlock and Percussion Rifles – RMC Ox-Yoke Muzzleloader Supplies

 

[gman57]

Welcome from NC,enjoy the forum, and go make some smoke

 

[Hanshi]

Welcome to the forum, jevyod.

 

[Widude]

Yeah, give thought to PA regs for hunting, a flinter is a lot more involved than an in-line.

Pay a little attention to proper cleaning after shooting. In most cases with Pryrodex, 777, & similar, you really don’t want to leave a bore fouled overnight. If the gun is ‘charged’ then not shot, fine to go a good while, until shot. One can let that fouled bore go longer with Blackhorn 209 powder.

With you buddy, the borrowed rifle, & tight saboted bullets. One really needs to test some to get the proper bore fit, not to tight or to loose. It doesn’t take much. A good place to start is with ‘crush-rib’ sabots from Harvestor muzzle-loading. After that one can vary bullets slightly to get a great fit, .451-.452”, whatever, for 50 cal.

At related issue, it seems TC rifles can have a slightly tighter bore than say a Knight. I’ve seen it myself with a buddy, as he was pushing his ramrod against a tree to load. This proper bore fit can be tested at home before going out to shoot, empty gun, push the bullet back out as you test a few inches of bore.

 

[rangerod]

Welcome from Iowa. The Bushnell suggested by deermanok would be a good choice. Sightron S1 would also be a good pick. There site shows them on sale.

 

[txhunter58]

Loose powder. 777 or pyrodex. 777 is about 10-15% more powerful than pyrodex BY VOLUME. and I would absolutely start with volume.

If you use 777 and 209 primers, try and find the ones specific for 777. They are actual weaker than normal 209s. They ignite 777 just fine, but lower the amount of “crud” that builds up near the breech area of the bore. If you use #11 primers, you are good.

Start with 80 gr of powder (by volume) and shoot 3 shots. Then 85 gr, 90, 100…. I never go beyond 110 gr. Too much recoil. And there is no need to. My elk load is 95 gr. All this is done at 15-25 yards. Never shoot longer distances until you find an accurate load.

My shooting procedure: pop off 2-3 caps to remove any residual oil after cleaning, run a dry patch down, then load powder, bullet, then primer: shoot. Between each shot always run a spit patch (can use actual spit or a SLIGHTLY damp patch using water or windex. I then flip that patch and run it down. Then I run a dry patch down (both sides) and then you reload. To be clear, you only pop off the caps one time, when you first get to shooting range after gun has been clean and oiled. Only use water based fluids for cleaning between shots at the range. Never used oil based during a shooting session.

You absolutely need to clean the rifle when you get home that day to prevent rust. You can use hot soapy water but there are plenty of cleaners on the market that work well. After a thorough cleaning, I run a light coat of oil down the barrel before I store it.

 

[JeffB1961]

welcome to the forum .
what ever scope you choose be sure the eye relief is adaquate for your use .