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oneshot52

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90 95 100grs. 250 sw cci win.777 federal primers 100yd. groups 5 to 7 inches 3x9 nikon buckmaster leupold rings and base goin crazy need help
 
My Prohunter likes the 300gn Hornady XTP (430) in a green crushed rib sabot pushed by 100 gns of BH209.

Actually, both my ML's like the crushed rib sabots, XTP's and 100gns of BH209.

Give them a try.
 
acasto said:
My Prohunter likes the 300gn Hornady XTP (430) in a green crushed rib sabot pushed by 100 gns of BH209.

Actually, both my ML's like the crushed rib sabots, XTP's and 100gns of BH209.

Give them a try.

Almost what i am using in my encore , 300 grain XTP .452 , Black sabots , 95 grains BH209 , Winchester primers .I love the XTP and buy them and my sabots in bulk .

209powder.jpg
 
WOW!! that is a quality rifle and should do much better then that with what you have listed.

What kind of powder are you shooting? If it is APP then I would change powders. Is this old powder? If it is then get some new powder. If these are the supplied shockwaves and sabots they should shoot better. I would try kicking up the powder charge once to 120 grains of loose powder.

Also check all the mounts on your scope, ring, base, etc.. make sure they are tight. I went through the dickens with a Knight Disc. I could not get it accurate. I then decided to go to open sights. When I took the scope off, here the base had worked loose. I lock tighted all the screws, put a simple Nikon Pro Staff on it, and that thing is drilling.

All else fails, check the hinge pin, and call Thompson Center and ask them to look at the rifle.
 
WOW!! that is a quality rifle and should do much better then that with what you have listed.

Yeah it should! Great question, Dave...What kind of powder are you shooting? The 250gr Shockwave is exactly the bullet I'd start with along with the 200gr Shockwave. Both bullets have an excellent reputation for accuracy. 100gr to 120gr of Pyrodex RS, Triple Se7en, or my first choice Blackhorn 209 should have no problems shooting inside 2 inches at 100yds. PERSONALLY...I'd change primers to full strength CCI, Remington, Federal, or Winchester 209s.
 
Just wondering if you did try shooting before you put the scope on. If all else fails send it back to TC. One of my buddies has a triumph he spent a couple hundred dollars on different sabotts, bullets, etc. Finally sent it back to TC and it was a bad QLA. Sent him a new rifle and he is happier than -----. Good luck, and let us know what happens..
 
thanks guys using 777 3f got some 290 platinum pb going to range this morning will let you know results
 
When at the range sit down at the bench with the rifle in the bags, before loading, and look through the scope as if you are about to shoot. BUT, hold the rifle at point of aim, then don't move the rifle, and move your head around just a little, up and down and side to side, or in a circle. The crosshairs shound stay at point of aim and not wander around on the target. If they do wander you have a scope with a parallax problem. I had this happen with a Nikon Prostaff scope the first year they made the ProStaff. It had up to 6" of parallax, very bad but was able to return it. I switched to an older Leupold VariX ll and no more problem. That was the only Nikon prostaff I have heard had the problem. All of the others I have seen were fine. I have also had up to 4 " on a Leupold that went bad on me too. Unless you had it happen to you it may be one of the last things you actually look for, or you might switch scopes and everything is fine but not know why. Just a thought.

ShawnT
 
oneshot52 said:
90 95 100grs. 250 sw cci win.777 federal primers 100yd. groups 5 to 7 inches 3x9 nikon buckmaster leupold rings and base goin crazy need help
That rifle will do a lot better than that.
We really dont have enough information to help you.
what sabot, and how does it fit
what powder new or old , granulation
There is a good possability that it is a mechanical problem have you stripped the gun and put the scope mounting blocks on with blue locktite
have you tried a different scope or the iron sights[scopes do go bad]
How does it load ? If you have to pound or even close to going down that hard the your sabot is to big [thick] for the barrel if it goes down easy the its the wrong sabot theres about 7 different thickness[measure at the petals] of sabot .
When you take the gun apart does it show any signs of warp or uneven pressure
have you put a ding on the crown if you spoil the crown it will shoot all over like that
If none of these things help then have some one watch while you shoot and see if you are flinching or closeing your eyes when you shoot
IF that all checks out then you may have a off set in the false muzzle and need to call TC and make provision for them to check the gun out. Lee
 
If all the above suggestions don't work,scrub the barrel out with JB bore shine before you send it back to TC.When mine was brand new I struggled pushing the 250 SW's down the barrel and the groups sucked!Polishing the bore made a big difference.Worth a try!
 
I had the same type of groups out of my Pro Hunter when it was new and shot over $300 of different powder and sabots out of it and it never did shoot anywhere close to MOA acccuracy. I sent it to T/C twice and they lapped the bore both times and that did not help at all. Finally, I told them how many T/C muzzleloaders I had bought in the past and this was the worst one of them all, yet the most expensive one. They finally sent me another barrel and it went from 4" groups to a 7/8" group with a full 150 grain magnum load and a 250 grain SST at 100 yards. Everyone told me to try differnt loads and check my scope and bases and it ended up being a bad factory barrel. Don't waste your money on different loads if it does not shoot the standard load well at all. Check the scope and bases and if that is not it then call T/C and make them live up to their warranty.
 
i wouldn't even bother with polishing the bore. Just send it back and dont bother spending any money on it.
 
jesheba
Never thought about that I always polish mine with polishing compound before I shoot them the first time, takes forever to get them broke in with sabots other wise, I wonder if thats why I never have the problem with conicals some people seem to. I started that back in the 60's when I was building rifles to sell. Lee
 
polishing

why should we [polish on a gun this expensive? I understand burrs and such but polish to break in?
 
Lee, no - that is not why you haven't encountered the problem with conicals. You've not encountered that problem because you have been very lucky and got good barrels (with good QLA sections). And it's as simple as that.
 
Seems like I opened up a can of worms!Never would of thought there would be so many opinions about this.I've always went through an elaborate break in process with my centerfire barrels.Guess some don't feel it's an option with muzzle loaders?I have been under the opinion that unless you have spent thousands for a barrel you should expect minor imperfections in the rifling or specifically the lands.I would expect those same imperfection in new muzzle loaders.Why not remove them? JB does no harm as far as I know.My thought was that it makes slpping the saboted bullet down the barrel easier and possibly more consistantly seated in all demensions. Can't hurt?
 
Is JB bore shine & JB bore paste the same item??? Can Flitz or Kanes Kroil be used in lapping barrels?
Redbird2
 
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