Questions on Lyman Great Plains Rifle

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flounder

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I recently bought myself the Great Plains Rifle caplock in 54 caliber with the slow twist. This is my first sidelock type muzzleloader so I have a few questions.
Overall, the gun looks well made. One thing I noticed is that the hammer is a little out of alignment with the nipple. It isn't real bad and it shouldn't affect it hitting a cap. I just wonder why they didn't make it a little more centered. Is there any way to adjust this or should I even worry about it??
Another thing I am wondering is just how tight should the wedge pins be. Right now I have to lightly tap them with a block of wood to get them in and use a punch to take them out. Should I be filing off a little material so they are less tight?
When you clean the rifle how do you get down into the breech area. The jag doesn't go all the way down. Are you finding that a scraper or a smaller caliber brush works best in this area?
Finally I am trying to figure out the purpose of that clean out screw. I figured I would be flushing water through the nipple and then taking it out and using a pipe cleaner to clean the channel to the breech. What is the reason for the clean out screw?
Thanks in advance for any help. Any other tips on this gun would be appreciated. I'm hoping to get shooting some round balls during the next warm spell.
Art
________
Justin Bieber Fan
 
One thing I noticed is that the hammer is a little out of alignment with the nipple. It isn't real bad and it shouldn't affect it hitting a cap. I just wonder why they didn't make it a little more centered. Is there any way to adjust this or should I even worry about it?? You can carefully bend a hammer but be careful doing so. As it is easy to over do the bend. I would shoot the rifle and if it works fine, then leave it alone. If not, send it back to Lyman.

Another thing I am wondering is just how tight should the wedge pins be. Should I be filing off a little material so they are less tight? You want them tight. And pay attention as to what pin comes out of what hole. A friend of mine shoots a GPR and said it does make a difference. They have to go back into the same place. So as long as you can get them in and out, I would not do any filing. Some people do not remove the stock from the rifle except once a year (unless they suspect powder is going behind the wood). They use a flush kit.

When you clean the rifle how do you get down into the breech area. The jag doesn't go all the way down. Are you finding that a scraper or a smaller caliber brush works best in this area? Get a range rod or extension to the ramrod that will help you reach down in there. As for the cleaning of the cone, a 30 caliber brush with a patch wrapped around it, on a long rifle rod will reach down into the cone and get that area clean.

Finally I am trying to figure out the purpose of that clean out screw. I figured I would be flushing water through the nipple and then taking it out and using a pipe cleaner to clean the channel to the breech. What is the reason for the clean out screw? Just that. You can take that out and with a fuzzy pipe cleaner, and this flushing will help keep the bolster in top shape. So you have to take the nipple and the clean out screw out, and then do the water bath and flush that.

Thanks in advance for any help. Any other tips on this gun would be appreciated. I'm hoping to get shooting some round balls during the next warm spell. My .54 shoots 100 grains of Goex 2f and .530 patched ball with a moose milk homemade lube on it. It is deadly on anything you want to hunt.
Art
 
Great choice. If it is a new gun make sure you clean the barrel with break cleaner to get all of the packing grease out. A 38cal brush will fit the breech if you fell it is necessary, however for normal cleaning, flushing with warm soapy water should sufficiently flush out the patent breech.
FWIW, my 54 GPR likes 110g Goex FFg, .530 RB and .018 pillow ticking.
 
In a .54 I normally start with 60 grains of 3F and work my way up. I only use 2F if I can't get anything else. 3F burns a lot cleaner, and you get more shots per pound.
 
Tried 3f in my gun but couldn't get as good groups as with 2f. Same with lighter loads. Too bad, since I had just ordered 8 lbs of 3f and only 2 of 2f. Of course, each gun is different.
 
Does anyone have stats/ info on height of front sights for shots at 50yds. 100yds 150yds 200yds. Lyman great plains rifle. 54cal. .535 ball 70 grains 2 1/2 F
pwdr. I can't get any info from Lyman or anywhere else for that matter. Thanks. Blackwater Butch
 
I did mine a little different.

My GPR rock lock with unaltered front blade and fixed rear:
60gr 2f == 50 yards
105gr 2f == 100 yards

Have not ventured beyond 100 with it.

You really need to just take it out and shoot it at a big piece of cardboard. The efficiency of your barrel will affect velocity and trajectory. What works for me may not be what works for you.
 

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