Hello new to this forum not new to muzzle loading been shooting them around 30 plus years. Something that Im trying for the first time is redoing a stock so advice will be welcome.The rifle is a CVA Zouva 58 cal had this rifle since the early 70'S stock looks pretty grim so would like to redo it again any help would be welcomed. Also the rifle was made by Zoli.
Redo a stock
- Thread starter Rlsmith
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First off, I highly recommend citistrip. Spray it on and let it soak for 10 minutes, then use a piece of brass or metal with a slight edge and scrape whatever has lifted off the stock. Luckily CVA used spray on finishes, so this should lift up easily.
Any trim like butt plates, triggers guards, leave them in place while sanding. To many guns have been ruined by folks refinishing stocks and leaving these parts off them. Leave them in place and after the stock is finished, you can then reblue or brown the trim.
Once you remove the stock finish, its pretty simple from there. I just recommend that you start with something like 100 grit until it looks smooth then start using 150 grit and finer. I use as fine as 2000 grit for a nice smooth finish.
Tung oil, tru oil, genuine oil. These are all easy to apply finishes that actually soak into the wood and bring the beauty out.
This isn't a refinish job. But it will show you how I keep the brass in place as i file an sand the stock. We want to see nice clean sharp edges, nothing rounded off and worst of all, we do not want to see brass sticking up past the wood. Keeping these places clean just adds to much to the overall look of the rifle.
https://www.frontiermuzzleloading.com/t10471-traditions-st-louis-hawken-build
This was my last gun build before neck surgery and she was a beauty. 2000 grit sand job and then 6 coats of birchwood casey genuine oil.
First off, I highly recommend citistrip. Spray it on and let it soak for 10 minutes, then use a piece of brass or metal with a slight edge and scrape whatever has lifted off the stock. Luckily CVA used spray on finishes, so this should lift up easily.
Any trim like butt plates, triggers guards, leave them in place while sanding. To many guns have been ruined by folks refinishing stocks and leaving these parts off them. Leave them in place and after the stock is finished, you can then reblue or brown the trim.
Once you remove the stock finish, its pretty simple from there. I just recommend that you start with something like 100 grit until it looks smooth then start using 150 grit and finer. I use as fine as 2000 grit for a nice smooth finish.
Tung oil, tru oil, genuine oil. These are all easy to apply finishes that actually soak into the wood and bring the beauty out.
This isn't a refinish job. But it will show you how I keep the brass in place as i file an sand the stock. We want to see nice clean sharp edges, nothing rounded off and worst of all, we do not want to see brass sticking up past the wood. Keeping these places clean just adds to much to the overall look of the rifle.
https://www.frontiermuzzleloading.com/t10471-traditions-st-louis-hawken-build
This was my last gun build before neck surgery and she was a beauty. 2000 grit sand job and then 6 coats of birchwood casey genuine oil.
My approach is slightly different, depending on how bad the stock it. First, I would remove the barrel and ALL hardware before applying any stripper to the stock. If you have to sand, you can put them back on before sanding, but sanding may not be necessary.
Use the stripper of your choice. I use popcicle sticks to scrape off the loose stripper. When most of that is gone I use 0000 steel wool. If the finish was just worn and not all beat up, at this point you can wash the stock as per your strippers directions and let it dry. After dry, rub it down and wipe it a few times with 0000 steel wool.
Apply the finish with the barrel and hardware removed. Nothing looks more tacky, in my mind, then stock finish on metal parts. Rub it down between coats. When finished, rub it down one more time and re-install the metal. Rubbing with steel wool should not have changed any dimensions.
If the stock is really bad and you need to sand, then follow the directions in the previous post. But in my experience sand paper has caused me a lot more time and work then it has saved.
Use the stripper of your choice. I use popcicle sticks to scrape off the loose stripper. When most of that is gone I use 0000 steel wool. If the finish was just worn and not all beat up, at this point you can wash the stock as per your strippers directions and let it dry. After dry, rub it down and wipe it a few times with 0000 steel wool.
Apply the finish with the barrel and hardware removed. Nothing looks more tacky, in my mind, then stock finish on metal parts. Rub it down between coats. When finished, rub it down one more time and re-install the metal. Rubbing with steel wool should not have changed any dimensions.
If the stock is really bad and you need to sand, then follow the directions in the previous post. But in my experience sand paper has caused me a lot more time and work then it has saved.
burlesontom
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I have refinished several stocks. I used to buy my stripper from the airport where they painted airplanes. They had the best stripper in the world. You don't sand on airplanes. But I don't think you can get it anymore. 
I liked to use a wood filler made by Jasco. It was recommended by John Barsness of Rilfe magazine. Its a creamy white color in the can but puts a real nice walnut stain on walnut wood. I am not certain if the gun you have has Beechwood or Walnut for a stock.
I have finished several stocks with linseed oil and it works it just takes a while to dry. I have mixed Formby's Tounge oil with linseed oil for a little faster drying time.
We will need pictures when you are finished. Before and after pics are even better.
I liked to use a wood filler made by Jasco. It was recommended by John Barsness of Rilfe magazine. Its a creamy white color in the can but puts a real nice walnut stain on walnut wood. I am not certain if the gun you have has Beechwood or Walnut for a stock.
I have finished several stocks with linseed oil and it works it just takes a while to dry. I have mixed Formby's Tounge oil with linseed oil for a little faster drying time.
We will need pictures when you are finished. Before and after pics are even better.
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I have been refinishing stocks for years off and on. Paint stripper to remove the finish, scrape and use steel wool. I then raise the grain over a kettle spout that is steaming , when the grain is raised, cut back with fine steel wool, then steam again and cut back, repeat till not more grain/ whiskers rise after steaming. Let it dry naturally, then I hand rub in pale boiled linseed 2/3 by volume to 1/3 of gum, not mineral turpentine. Let the stock dry in the warm sun. I migh keep doing this once or twice a day for a week or so, then when ever I think of it later on. It is nice to hand rub a stock in front of the open fire of an evening. After the first application of oil I fit back all the furniture. With the steel wool you only remove a tiny amount of wood and don't round off any features. You can clean out any checkering with a nail brush and murphys furniture soap. You can raise any dents if they bother you over the steam kettle as well.
Cheers
Gordon
Cheers
Gordon
