What did I do Wrong? Bullet lube question.

[Offshore]

I made a batch of lube last night and after it cooled (just sitting on the counter over night) I tried to remove the first bullet and the whole thing cracked! This was to pan lube some bullets. A few bullets I was able to remove with lube in the grooves, but for the most part it is not staying on the bullets. My recipe is as follows;

16 oz./50% beeswax
12.8 oz./40% Crisco vegetable shortening
3.2 oz./10% anhydrous lanolin

This is my first time making muzzleloader lube, but I think it should be "somewhat" pliable. I live in Florida, so it is not like it has been in freezing conditions. Can someone give me some guidance? I would be very much appreciative.

 

[MSalyards]

I have never used your recipe so I don't know how hard it is. It seems close to emerets lube. You want it to be somewhat soft , I normally pan lube by letting it take a set. then I put the pan in the fridge for about 20 min or so to firm up but its still soft. Then remove and your bullets should push out fairly easy. You might try adding a bit of high temp oil to your lube to soften it some, maybe olive or a high temp cooking oil. I have had the same results when I first started and left it too long.

 

[Walkingeagle]

Try pushing the bullets through while it is still a bit soft. Also remember to space your bullets about 3/4” apart minimum.
Walk

 

[michiganmuzzy]

I used to use a similar formula. If you increase the beeswax a bit it will make it softer and a bit stickier. Trial and error method

 

[HC]

?

 

[MSalyards]

I used to use a similar formula. If you increase the beeswax a bit it will make it softer and a bit stickier. Trial and error method

You can try this but normally beeswax is just the carrier of the oil's. I could be wrong but I don't believe it will soften the lube.

 

[45-70]

I made a batch of lube last night and after it cooled (just sitting on the counter over night) I tried to remove the first bullet and the whole thing cracked! This was to pan lube some bullets. A few bullets I was able to remove with lube in the grooves, but for the most part it is not staying on the bullets. My recipe is as follows;

16 oz./50% beeswax
12.8 oz./40% Crisco vegetable shortening
3.2 oz./10% anhydrous lanolin

This is my first time making muzzleloader lube, but I think it should be "somewhat" pliable. I live in Florida, so it is not like it has been in freezing conditions. Can someone give me some guidance? I would be very much appreciative.

if it sat overnight and comes out of grooves when you try to remove bullet most likely is little to hard add some more lanolin that makes it slick and pliable . i put bullets back in same hole for next round . in the oven about 240 degrees until lube melts

 

[Idaholewis]

if it sat overnight and comes out of grooves when you try to remove bullet most likely is little to hard add some more lanolin that makes it slick and pliable . i put bullets back in same hole for next round . in the oven about 240 degrees until lube melts

I agree with 45/70, Go Up with the Lanolin, I would ad a little more of your Crisco as well The Bees Wax is the Hardening agent, and what caused it to Crack.

I can’t tell you how much you will need? You have to keep tinkering with it til you get it Right. I will say that i have found a Softer Lube to be FAR superior in Accuracy to a Harder Lube. I work with the Consistency til it will “Just” Hold in the Lube Grooves, on the Thin Side

Remember: If the Lube is to Thin Ad a little Beeswax to Stiffen it. If the Lube is to Hard and Cracking, ad more of your Crisco/Lanolin, And Cut back on the Beeswax Next time

 

[michiganmuzzy]

I just lernt what lanolin is. I thought it was like paraffin. I make my lube with paraffin, beeswax and vasoline. Beeswax makes it sticky. Paraffin makes it harder. Vasoline makes it slippery-er or thinner.

 

[edmehlig]

With my homemade lube I push them out after letting it sit 60-70 minutes. Like the others have said you want the lube to harden but yet soft enough to push out. I use a silicone bread pan to remove the block of lube with bullets out. Then I hold the block and push the bullets out.

 

[Idaholewis]

I just lernt what lanolin is. I thought it was like paraffin. I make my lube with paraffin, beeswax and vasoline. Beeswax makes it sticky. Paraffin makes it harder. Vasoline makes it slippery-er or thinner.

Depends on the Beeswax. Unrefined Beeswax can be Sticky. Pure, Refined Beeswax is NOT sticky. The Lanolin i use is Similar to Soft Caramel in Consistency. Lanolin is what gives my Lube the “Tacky” Stay in the Grooves Texture

 

[Offshore]

Thanks everyone for all the advise. I make a lot of hard cast bullets for centerfire pistols/rifles and have a few lubes that I like, so I have a pretty good idea on how "thin/slippery" I think it should be. I'm just now getting into casting and lubing conicals for muzzleloader use and gave this recipe a try. I agree, if a proper ratio is made one should be able to just push the bullets through the block of lube. . .not the case with my batch. I will try bumping up the Crisco and lanolin ratio like you guys have mentioned, maybe 5%/10% each and see what happens. Thanks again.

 

[MSalyards]

Just remember, no petroleum in your black powder lubes or big problems.

 

[edmehlig]

And don't let it sit too long in the harden Lube. It only makes it more difficult to push them out unless you want to get a cutter that fits over the bullet.

 

[sdporter]

And don't let it sit too long in the harden Lube. It only makes it more difficult to push them out unless you want to get a cutter that fits over the bullet.

I think that’s probably what I did wrong with mine also. I let it sit overnight and the bullets basically came out with no lube in the grooves. Try again as Ed suggested I’m going to....

 

[michiganmuzzy]

Just remember, no petroleum in your black powder lubes or big problems.

Yes, i only use my mix in a nitride cva with BH209. Not bp or even 777

 

[John Kaeding]

Howdy, I'm rather new here also, shooting sidelock long guns and pistols but also Colt 1851 Navy and 1860 Army revolvers. I do apologise if I'm out of forum here but you all have some great info and experience.

That said, my partner and I have been making our own lube and wads using equal parts lard, candle wax(with a crayon to tag the batch) and graited bar hand soap. Problem is on our hot NorCal summers it gets gummy and causes fouling. Thinking about fifty fifty wax and soap to make it heat friendly? What say y'all?

 

[MSalyards]

I've heard of some BPCR guys using certain soaps in there lube. I personally am not sold on the idea. Good candle wax is normally pure beeswax but some can be contaminated with other wax's. Lard can be used if it is pure rendered with no salt or additives. The crayon thing is used by many also. Purity is a big thing in Black powder lubes. One wrong ingredient can turn your barrel to asphalt. How you load your revolvers can make a difference and the lubes you use there may not work in your rifle as well. I shoot a 1858 and can shoot 50 - 60 rounds without cleaning shooting pure lead round balls. Your lard or tallow is your only real lube that I can see, I don't know about the soap. Your wax is the carrier that holds everything together.

 

[michiganmuzzy]

Howdy, I'm rather new here also, shooting sidelock long guns and pistols but also Colt 1851 Navy and 1860 Army revolvers. I do apologise if I'm out of forum here but you all have some great info and experience.

That said, my partner and I have been making our own lube and wads using equal parts lard, candle wax(with a crayon to tag the batch) and graited bar hand soap. Problem is on our hot NorCal summers it gets gummy and causes fouling. Thinking about fifty fifty wax and soap to make it heat friendly? What say y'all?

I was going to use candle wax but found parrafin to be a better choice cuz i can change how much beeswax i use. Also agree with Msalyard about the salt in lard possibility. Maybe try some dif types of wax or sub something for the lard. In my revolvers i im just using BullShops NASA lube. Werks great.

 

[GM54-120]

Armour sells a premium lard that has no salt added. Sodium is listed as 0mg.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Armour-Premium-All-Natural-Lard/330503403