I have a TC Hawken that I bought back in the 70's. I would like to start shooting it again but this time instead of patch and ball want to use a conical bulet. Any suggestions on what may shoot well out of this old flint lock rifle. I have no idea what the twist is in that barrel.
Bullets for TC Hawken Flint
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It really depends upon the twist of the barrel. I do not know the twist of tbat barrel.
If you are 1:48, that is a good "average" twist that is easy to work with using PRB and conical.
REAL Conical are great. They have descending grooves that progressively get bigger, allowing a tight seal against most barrels. For the most part, REAL's will work well in most guns I know of.
When you choose a conical, you also must choose on what you want to put up with.
Rule of thumb: Tight fit means better accuracy.
But. . .
These tight fitting conical also have an disadvantage. . .you must swab between each shot, or you will have a very good chance of getting one stuck in your barrel when loading. . .. because of the "crud" inside of the barrel.
REAL's are tight fitting too. . .but you do NOT have to swab between shots at all. . .Another huge advantage for them. The disadvantage comes in accuracy. You must work up a load for them. I have about a 2" to 2 1/2" at 100 yards. Not bad for a REAL conical. But. . .with Sabots, you can probably MOA.
Method of choice for me:
1. How accurate do you want? a MUST MOA or close? Better use just about any Sabot type conical. Work up a load with it. Deal with the swabbing.
2. is 2.5 inches ok at 100 yards? maybe 3"? Maybe a REAL conical will work just fine with you. the Mold is about 26 dollars to your door, and you can cast all you want. Use wheel weights, goto Rotometal and buy bulk lead that is pure. (about 110 dollars for 50 pounds to your door).
the slower the twist, the less likely a conical will stablize enough to shoot accurately out of your gun.
If you are 1:48, that is a good "average" twist that is easy to work with using PRB and conical.
REAL Conical are great. They have descending grooves that progressively get bigger, allowing a tight seal against most barrels. For the most part, REAL's will work well in most guns I know of.
When you choose a conical, you also must choose on what you want to put up with.
Rule of thumb: Tight fit means better accuracy.
But. . .
These tight fitting conical also have an disadvantage. . .you must swab between each shot, or you will have a very good chance of getting one stuck in your barrel when loading. . .. because of the "crud" inside of the barrel.
REAL's are tight fitting too. . .but you do NOT have to swab between shots at all. . .Another huge advantage for them. The disadvantage comes in accuracy. You must work up a load for them. I have about a 2" to 2 1/2" at 100 yards. Not bad for a REAL conical. But. . .with Sabots, you can probably MOA.
Method of choice for me:
1. How accurate do you want? a MUST MOA or close? Better use just about any Sabot type conical. Work up a load with it. Deal with the swabbing.
2. is 2.5 inches ok at 100 yards? maybe 3"? Maybe a REAL conical will work just fine with you. the Mold is about 26 dollars to your door, and you can cast all you want. Use wheel weights, goto Rotometal and buy bulk lead that is pure. (about 110 dollars for 50 pounds to your door).
the slower the twist, the less likely a conical will stablize enough to shoot accurately out of your gun.
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The normal twist on a TC Hawken is 1-48. I have had very good luck with Hornady great plains bullets. Make sure you use a lubed felt wad over powder and under the bullet. The 385 grain great plains load very hard in my 50 cal TC Hawken, but they also shoot like a tack driver. If a conical bullet does not load hard, it most likely will not shoot real good either. Stay away from powerbelt bullet in all guns! You should be able to shoot short bullets in sabots also. If you shoot sabots, then you need to wipe the barrel after every shot, as there is no lube on them. Your twist is too slow for long bullets.
In a flintlock, I would recommend you stay with the patched round ball and pick up a caplock if you want to shoot things other than the patched round ball.
In a flintlock, I would recommend you stay with the patched round ball and pick up a caplock if you want to shoot things other than the patched round ball.
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I suggest you give the Hornady PA Conicals a try. They are 240 grains and are more of a ballet. They shoot well out of my TC 50 Hawken Caplock.
Buffalo Bullets also make a 245 grain version of the same thing. It's basically a round ball with a skirt to catch the rifling. Plus, they're cheap. $15 for 100. Simple to load and accurate for me. Good luck.
Buffalo Bullets also make a 245 grain version of the same thing. It's basically a round ball with a skirt to catch the rifling. Plus, they're cheap. $15 for 100. Simple to load and accurate for me. Good luck.
