Now that I own a new Chrony, I'd like to protect it from those nasty sabots coming out of Savage. Not worried about center fire rifles. If I can't miss that screen, I don't deserve to have one :wink: . I want to make something that protects the screen. Keep in mind that I'll be mounting the chrony on a tribod. Any ideas or suggestions.
protection for my new Chrony
- Thread starter RAF
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Raf,
That is easy. Our own Grouse solved that dilemna awhile back... :wink:
I purchased one from him recently and could not happier with it.
JC
Grouse's Chronobox
http://www.modernmuzzleloader.com/phpBB ... chrono+box
That is easy. Our own Grouse solved that dilemna awhile back... :wink:
I purchased one from him recently and could not happier with it.
JC
Grouse's Chronobox
http://www.modernmuzzleloader.com/phpBB ... chrono+box
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Raf,
Grouse's boxs do mount on a tripod...
JC
Grouse's boxs do mount on a tripod...
JC
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Raf,
I belive that you can purchase a "quick release" head for your tripod for a few bucks. That includes a removable piece that screws into the camera, (or in this case the chronobox).
That part allows you to quickly attach and detach the box at the flick of lever.
Here is the part that attached to the box, notice Grouse has adapted that part to stick into the wood without rotating as would be the case with a standard screw.
My recommendation would be to contact Grouse and see if he has any boxes available...they are certainly worth the few dollars he charges...
JC
This is the side that attaches to the release on the tripod...
This goes into the "box"
I belive that you can purchase a "quick release" head for your tripod for a few bucks. That includes a removable piece that screws into the camera, (or in this case the chronobox).
That part allows you to quickly attach and detach the box at the flick of lever.
Here is the part that attached to the box, notice Grouse has adapted that part to stick into the wood without rotating as would be the case with a standard screw.
My recommendation would be to contact Grouse and see if he has any boxes available...they are certainly worth the few dollars he charges...
JC
This is the side that attaches to the release on the tripod...
This goes into the "box"
JC, what you describe is exactly what I have with my tripod. In fact it came with a spare that's now in the chrony. What I'm interested in is that little piece you show in the 2nd photo. That almost looks like the anchors for golf shoe spikes. I'm going to have to go out and check my shoes and see what size the thread is and if it will work.
I'd consider buy from Grouse but because of where I live I'd have to deal with the exchange rate, shipping, customs and brokerage fees. That all starts to add up and pretty soon it's not financially feasable. Then when you take into account the thousands I've got invested in wood working tools and since I'm retired the free time I have I think I could make something. And if it don't work out and invested much. Thanks for the help though.
I'd consider buy from Grouse but because of where I live I'd have to deal with the exchange rate, shipping, customs and brokerage fees. That all starts to add up and pretty soon it's not financially feasable. Then when you take into account the thousands I've got invested in wood working tools and since I'm retired the free time I have I think I could make something. And if it don't work out and invested much. Thanks for the help though.
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That piece has internal threads that match the screw head on your tripod!!
Just findout where you can buy that piece and you are in business...
JC
I just checked my golf shoe and it's the same size but different thread. I've been raking my brain. I know I've seen those things and they're used in wood working some where. Goin' have to go exploring in some specialty wood working shops. This is a good excuse to go there 
.
.
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Raf,
Who is looking out for ya....
It is called a 3 prong T-nut....
http://www.woodpeck.com/tnut.html
Who is looking out for ya....
It is called a 3 prong T-nut....
http://www.woodpeck.com/tnut.html
JC, thanks for that. Now I'll know what to call it when I go to the store . Won't look like quite the dummy trying to describe. Done that before and got some weird looks from the person across the counter. Look exactly like what I want. 1/4 inch with #20 thread. Thanks for looking out for me :wink:
. Won't look like quite the dummy trying to describe. Done that before and got some weird looks from the person across the counter. Look exactly like what I want. 1/4 inch with #20 thread. Thanks for looking out for me :wink:Just got back from the store. My wife shudders every time I tell her when I going to that store. They have the neatest wood working tools and accessories, and they cost an arm and a leg. Well, they were all out of the 3 prong but got some 6 prong instead. Goin' to work like a charm. Thanks again JC.
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Thnks Raf...
And let's not forget to say Thanks Grouse....
JC
And let's not forget to say Thanks Grouse....
JC
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You guys are funny. RAF, JC is steering you in the right direction. Don't go cheap on the glass. Use 1/4 inch Lexan on the face, and 1/8 inch on top.
Grouse, I hope I'm not infringing on any copy rights or patents . I was going to use plexi glass on the front as I know where I can get it, cut to the size I need too. Never thought about the top though. I assume that to protect the sensors from powder residue. Instructions suggested clear tape for that. What do you think.
. I was going to use plexi glass on the front as I know where I can get it, cut to the size I need too. Never thought about the top though. I assume that to protect the sensors from powder residue. Instructions suggested clear tape for that. What do you think.
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RAF said:Grouse, I hope I'm not infringing on any copy rights or patents
Raf,
Two thoughts...
First, if I were designing a new box I would go with 3/8 or 1/2 glass up front. The thickness won't hurt any functions, and it will ensure that a sabot never goes through it. (I think 3/8 would be perfect.)
Second, IMHO I have found that the glass on top works better than the diffusers in many kinds of light. In addition it also protects the chrono when it is raining.
JC
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RAF said:Grouse, I hope I'm not infringing on any copy rights or patents
Plexi glass wont work. I use a generic lexan thats 5 times stronger then plexi-glass and have broke it before. I know longer make the boxes, if i did it would be Lexan only.
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How long until the "Vintage..2005, Grouse's Muzzleloader Box's", start listing on Gunbroker for a small fortune?....
:yeah:
JC
I spent part of the morning out in the garage and started to build the box. I would have like to make it out of 3/4 inch plywood, but didn't have any on hand so use some 1/2 inch and some 5/16. Pieces were cut and then glued together. All pieces are cut and ready for assembly. Just need the glass. Don't know what thickness I'll be able to get so I'll have to wait. Once I have the glass and know the thickness, I'll cut the grooves with the Dado blade and then I can assemble.
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