TC single trigger “Trigger Job”

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Thanks Lewis and Sax for your input. I appreciate it.

Sax is right, there is no trigger tension spring in my Renegade, like the New Englander has. The only way for the lock and the trigger mechanism to fit together is with the sear arm in the trigger slot. If you put the sear above the slot then it creates even more slop and the trigger becomes free to fall all the way forward until it hits the front of the trigger guard. The slot is what holds the trigger in place, sort of.

Lewis, you mentioned that you would like to tinker with one of these. I'm in northern Utah (not far from the Idaho state line) and would be glad to send you my stock with lock & trigger in place, and let you study it for as long as you want. Maybe you could even work the sear parts a little while it's there to lighten it up a bit... Please pm me if you would like to do this.
 
I just acquired a never fired TC Renegade Hunter 50 cal. Been reading all the threads having to do with TC Hawken, Renegade, trigger jobs, etc. The single trigger on mine isn't terrible, but not great either. It breaks somewhere around 4 - 5 lbs. But the trigger itself has a lot of loose "slop" or "flop" (don't know what to call it).

I can polish the sear & tumbler components to lighten the trigger pull, but how do I get rid of that slop? I'm talking about being able to grab the trigger, no matter the hammer position, and wiggle it all around. Especially fore and aft. It moves a lot, like maybe 1/8" - 3/16" at the tip end of the trigger. Tilt the rifle up or down and it makes a very audible click as the trigger falls forward or back. Has anyone else noticed this? Is it normal? Can anything be done about it?

See pics below. The "slot" in the trigger extension plate (A) that mates up with the sear arm (B) has a very wide throat. That's where all the slop is coming from. Can anything be done about it?

View attachment 13114 View attachment 13115
I think I know what your talking about ? Is there slack in between the trigger shoe and the sear trip lever ? I had a trigger like that before and I took a piece of piece of round hollow metal and slipped it over the sear trip lever then filed it down so the gap between the two parts was much tighter taking up the slack then polished it I hope I understood your issue correctly if not sorry I just wasted both of our time ! Lol
 
I think I know what your talking about ? Is there slack in between the trigger shoe and the sear trip lever ? I had a trigger like that before and I took a piece of piece of round hollow metal and slipped it over the sear trip lever then filed it down so the gap between the two parts was much tighter taking up the slack then polished it I hope I understood your issue correctly if not sorry I just wasted both of our time ! Lol
Yes, that is exactly the issue. I will give your suggestion some thought. Sounds like it might work. Thanks.
 
It does work it's just taking up the slack just make sure you leave a smidgen in there !
 
Lewis,
I know I'm late to the party, but I have an un-fired Pennsylvania Hunter and was dreading to try it because the trigger pull was so stout it was like I had a safety on! I was searching for an answer, when I stumbled upon this thread. Last night I took apart the lock and tried to mirror what you did. I took it slow and measured frequently. After I put everything back together, I couldn't believe what a difference it made!! Thanks for your instruction and encouragement !!
 
I bet it would be the Same, or extremely close to the same. I would have to see one to know for sure? My lyman Great Plains looks the Same as my TC’s, regardless of brand, these locks work VERY similiar. Toss that lock in the Mail someday and i will fix it up for ya Ed :yeah: Shed a few pounds from it, And HIGHLY polish the Notch of the Tumbler where the Sear engages it
I would pay for someone to do my white mountain trigger
 

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