What grain bullet did he shoot?
300 and then the 250 XTP .452. 250 didn't recoil as much and worked just as well. But the 300 did give him gnat's eyelash accuracy. 250's were still plenty accurate for him out to 150 yards.
What grain bullet did he shoot?
First of all, the three procedures combined total time won't amount to more than 30-40 additional SECONDS added to the loading procedure. Probably less time once I get into the rhythm of being used to the movements.If I had to do all that after every shot I’d give up shooting muzzleloaders.
Because I can shoot as much as I want without stopping to clean anything.First of all, the three procedures combined total time won't amount to more than 30-40 additional SECONDS added to the loading procedure. Probably less time once I get into the rhythm of being used to the movements.
It will require EXACTLY, two pin vises in a custom leather sheath on my belt. A #92 vise w/the brass wire rod pick, and a #93 vise w/ the 3.1mm drill bit installed backwards.
For me, as a complete outsider to inline muzzleloaders with NOTHING invested financially, or emotionally, the 209 primer seems to me to be the weak link in the ignition system. Especially, the HARD CARBON BUILD-UP that occurs in the flame channels of all inline breech plugs that use 209 primers.
And, if I can reduce that build-up by carefully, and gently using the blunt, non-cutting, shank end of a 3.1mm drill bit after EVERY SHOT, instead of allowing the build-up to become a problem; then WHY NOT TRY SOMETHING DIFFERENT?
Waiting until the fluted, cutting end of the drill bit is NECESSARY, seems to me to be counterproductive. Remember, I am just looking at the problem from a practical, engineering point of view. From a flintlock shooters aspect with a very similiar set of ignition issues.
the 209 primer seems to me to be the weak link in the ignition system. Especially, the HARD CARBON BUILD-UP that occurs in the flame channels of all inline breech plugs that use 209 primers.
The better a plug seals, the less carbon builds up. Ive seen this in both my NULA and Lehighs.
The volume of the flash channel is a balancing act. The more volume the less peak reaches the primer BUT more volume means more to fill also. So a larger volume flash channel gets more "back wash" from the powder igniting. The NULA plug channel is short but 5/32 and the primer is fully supported and sealed. Only the rim is not in the pocket. The seal takes place on the rim when the action is closed. The rim is supported by the bolt recess. Headspace is achieved off the rim. Not off the OAL of the primer.
So you are slightly better off with a larger ID such as 5/32" and a bit shorter vs a 1/8" and a longer channel to achieve that volume. Powder sets closer to the primer but you get a similar volume. The larger ID also takes longer to foul enough to cause a missfire.
This is exactly why i say modify the OEM CVA plug to a 5/32 channel and use a vent or TC bushing. You will have a better plug than you can buy. They all use a 1/8" or smaller and are probably a tad longer than needed. It appears to me the Traditions plug should work well for this mod too. At least for a vent liner. Might be a tad short for a bushing. I dont think its primer pocket is deep enough for good primer support with a very small flash channel. Too much of the primer is NOT in the pocket.
The better a plug seals, the less carbon builds up. Ive seen this in both my NULA and Lehighs.
The volume of the flash channel is a balancing act. The more volume the less peak reaches the primer BUT more volume means more to fill also. So a larger volume flash channel gets more "back wash" from the powder igniting. The NULA plug channel is short but 5/32 and the primer is fully supported and sealed. Only the rim is not in the pocket. The seal takes place on the rim when the action is closed. The rim is supported by the bolt recess. Headspace is achieved off the rim. Not off the OAL of the primer.
So you are slightly better off with a larger ID such as 5/32" and a bit shorter vs a 1/8" and a longer channel to achieve that volume. Powder sets closer to the primer but you get a similar volume. The larger ID also takes longer to foul enough to cause a missfire.
This is exactly why i say modify the OEM CVA plug to a 5/32 channel and use a vent or TC bushing. You will have a better plug than you can buy. They all use a 1/8" or smaller and are probably a tad longer than needed. It appears to me the Traditions plug should work well for this mod too. At least for a vent liner. Might be a tad short for a bushing. I dont think its primer pocket is deep enough for good primer support with a very small flash channel. Too much of the primer is NOT in the pocket.
So, a CVA, BH209, QRBP, breech plug, drilled and tapped for the Lehigh Defense VL-1 vent liner; and with the flash channel enlarged to 5/32" in diameter should have fewer problems with hard carbon build-up in the flash channel, than the Lehigh Defense #BP-BP-C1 BH209 breech plug for CVS rifles & pistols?
So, I am good to go, as is from the factory, with the brand new, yet to be installed, Lehigh Defense BP-BP-C1 breech plug that I purchased for the Optima V2 pistol?Seems like the OEM plug primer socket is about 0.225" deep
Seems like the Lehigh plug primer socket is about 0.221" deep.
The stock breech plug has a flame channel of 3.0 mm. You would use a 3mm drill. A #32 wire drill may be easier to find and is about 0.002" smaller than 3mm, which is a negligible difference......So, 3.1mm bits for a stock breech plug.......
Thank you for the additional information, I have no desire to modify the stock BP-BP-C1 breech plug.The stock breech plug has a flame channel of 3.0 mm. You would use a 3mm drill. A #32 wire drill may be easier to find and is about 0.002" smaller than 3mm, which is a negligible difference.
You may damage the vent liner threads, if you enlarge the Lehigh flame channel to 5/32". If you are unable to leave the plug as is, you may wish to have a 10-32 tap on hand to repair the threads. There doesn't seem to be a compelling reason to diddle with the breech plug.
Enter your email address to join: