VX2 CDS elevation dial testing.

[LHR]

After my successful elk hunt this year I had put my rifle away with a load still in the barrel. So here a few weeks later I decided I had better go shoot it so that I could clean it up and put away for the off season. Earlier this year when I was dialing elevation for 300 yards testing on steel, I noticed that my return to zero seemed off and inconsistent.

So I did a little test to see just what was going on. I put up a target with two bullseyes that were at a measured 12” apart vertically. My first shot was on a cold dirty bore obviously, and is indicated on the target. I then dialed up 12” and shot again, dialed back to zero, shot again and continued to do that alternating my dial position for each shot.

ALL POINT OF AIM WAS AT THE BOTTOM BULLSEYE. ALL SHOTS TAKEN AT 100 YARDS.

It was a cool 17*F with no wind when I got setup to shoot. My rifle was zero’d at 100 yards in much warmer temps and it seems to show that Blackhorn209 is a tad temp sensitive as indicated by my low POI.

 

[Omidv]

In my honest opinion, it looks to be tracking true. Both groups were directly under the bullseye. I’m sure if you measure the center of each group it will be pretty damn close.

 

[LHR]

It surprised me because I was sure something was wrong with it. I did do something different I should add. When dialing I always end the movement in the upward direction. So when returning to zero, I went passed (below) by 8 clicks and then came back up to zero. This was the first time I have done it that way. But I had noticed at 300 yards it always seemed on the money, it was when I dropped back to zero and stopped there that it seemed off.

 

[Omidv]

Maybe try it that way and see if you are right? I wish I had a cds scope on mine. I have to just dial minutes. I have a Leupold LRP first focal plane scope on my Mountaineer but it’s not as bright as I’d like during low light. My VXR 3-9x 50 is way clearer but that’s on my 450

 

[WV Hunter]

Man that looks pretty good to me. Slight adjustment up for zero and you should be 100% confident! CDS are nice for sure

 

[tpcollins]

It surprised me because I was sure something was wrong with it. I did do something different I should add. When dialing I always end the movement in the upward direction. So when returning to zero, I went passed (below) by 8 clicks and then came back up to zero. This was the first time I have done it that way. But I had noticed at 300 yards it always seemed on the money, it was when I dropped back to zero and stopped there that it seemed off.

When turning the elevation “up” to a new yardage, I always go past about 4 clicks and then go back those 4 clicks. When going up the erector is moving away from the spring(s) and releasing tension, when going down it’s pushing against the spring(s) and eliminating any backlash.

It just seems to work for me.

 

[LHR]

When turning the elevation “up” to a new yardage, I always go past about 4 clicks and then go back those 4 clicks. When going up the erector is moving away from the spring(s) and releasing tension, when going down it’s pushing against the spring(s) and eliminating any backlash.

It just seems to work for me.

That makes sense too, maybe the thing is to just be consistent which ever way your movement ends? Not knowing the make up of the internals, I just went with what I was seeing in the field. Which was, when I moved it up for my 300 yard target it always seemed to be right on. But when it came back down to the 100 yard target is where it was often not returning to zero. So I tested it the opposite of what your saying here. Next time I do this I will try it the other way and see if I get a similar result.

 

[LHR]

Maybe try it that way and see if you are right? I wish I had a cds scope on mine. I have to just dial minutes. I have a Leupold LRP first focal plane scope on my Mountaineer but it’s not as bright as I’d like during low light. My VXR 3-9x 50 is way clearer but that’s on my 450

I'm just dialing minutes as well since I have not sent off for the custom one yet. I keep changing my loads so I need to settle on one first. Having a generic moa turret is not a bad thing either, it gives you flexibility to change loads any time. I just keep a cheat sheet taped to the bell of my scope or under the scope lens cap so I know how many minutes for each yardage I may want to dial.

 

[Omidv]

I'm just dialing minutes as well since I have not sent off for the custom one yet. I keep changing my loads so I need to settle on one first. Having a generic moa turret is not a bad thing either, it gives you flexibility to change loads any time. I just keep a cheat sheet taped to the bell of my scope or under the scope lens cap so I know how many minutes for each yardage I may want to dial.

Good point! I will remember that. I’ll still be searching for a better hunting scope though. The tmr reticle is just too fine for my liking and combine that with the low light visibility and it makes you wish you had something different. I actually didn’t take a shot because of it one morning, it was legal shooting light by about 15 minutes, I watched a group of bucks in the river bottom funnel through a shooting lane and the one shooter I couldn’t make for sure was him so I didn’t shoot. That being said if it was a really big shooter there would have been no question but he was just barely a shooter. Lol so I wasn’t too upset.

 

[tpcollins]

That makes sense too, maybe the thing is to just be consistent which ever way your movement ends? Not knowing the make up of the internals, I just went with what I was seeing in the field. Which was, when I moved it up for my 300 yard target it always seemed to be right on. But when it came back down to the 100 yard target is where it was often not returning to zero. So I tested it the opposite of what your saying here. Next time I do this I will try it the other way and see if I get a similar result.

If you’re going back to 100 from 300, then I would think you’re already putting positive force on the spring(s) - providing “up” is moving the turret out.