Won't stay cocked!

[Bill]

I have a RMC flintlock with 1/28" barrel, L&R lock, fitted with a single trigger. Trigger pull was always very good- (2 pounds) best single trigger I've ever seen on a flinter. Stock is a laminate that cracked through the wrist two years ago. I repaired it, but never really trusted it. I finally found a new factory replacement stock, but now I have a trigger problem. When i assembled the rifle in its new stock, the trigger pull seemed light-almost like a set trigger. Cocked and pulled the trigger several times and now the rifle will not stay in the full cocked position. Anybody know what is causing this problem? I have a couple of double sets in the shop, but don't think I can fit them to this skinny straight grip stock.

 

[edmehlig]

Do you still have the old stock? If so, see if your rifle stays cocked with it. If it does, you may have to remove some wood from within.

 

[cayuga]

It could be a fit problem, but if the new stock is a laminate from RMC.. well check it. Maybe they need to be tuned by removing some burr or something in the stock, like Ed said. The other could be they need a good cleaning. Take them out of the stock. Get a can of break cleaner and someone else s toothbrush. Take the lock outside and spray down the back of it and scrub it with the took brush. Do the same with the trigger assembly. LIGHTLY oil the lock and trigger. I just had to do the exact same thing to a rifle last week doing the same thing.

 

[Bill]

Thanks for the help. I fitted action and trigger to the old stock-no joy. Still won't stay cocked. When the rain stops I'll take lock and trigger outside and try the breakfree and a some kroil. If that doesn't work, I'll call Ron Luckenbill and have him fit a set trigger.

 

[cayuga]

One more thought.. on some rifles, if you pull the lock, when you replace it, you have to push the trigger forward on it so the bar on the lock slides between them. I do not know if that is what your lock does. But for instance, on a Traditions Woodsman, when I pulled the lock.. in order to put it back, I had to push the trigger forward, then slide the lock in place. Otherwise the triggers did not work, and the hammer would not cock and lock.

 

[Dwayne]

Are you sure you have not accidentally touched or moved the set screw for the cocking mechanism?

On your lock assembly, there is a very small screw with a spring on it. It is usually located just behind the hammer and under it.

This screw has a small spring on it (usually). If this screw is screwed in just a little too tight, the spring will not catch on the "cog" good enough, and you will not be able to keep your hammer cocked.

This same screw is used to adjust your trigger weight. 2 pounds is extremely light (but nice), but anything less may give you problems with the set screw being too tight and not allowing the spring to be stopped by the front cog.

 

[Bill]

I left a message for Ron, but no answer yet. He probably went to Friendship. In the meantime, i removed trigger and lock, then cleaned and lightly oiled. All screws are snug. Placed everything back together and the rifle cocked. Started cocking and releasing trigger. Each time I cycled the trigger the pull got lighter. After 5-6 pulls, the rifle would not cock. Hmm, I then pressed trigger while cocking hammer. When I released the trigger, the rifle stayed cocked. I repeated the above performance twice. I'm at a loss.

 

[oldfox]

Not that familiar with flintlocks, but could the trigger be binding before engaging the sear? Trigger nose or sear worn?

 

[Dwayne]

I left a message for Ron, but no answer yet. He probably went to Friendship. In the meantime, i removed trigger and lock, then cleaned and lightly oiled. All screws are snug. Placed everything back together and the rifle cocked. Started cocking and releasing trigger. Each time I cycled the trigger the pull got lighter. After 5-6 pulls, the rifle would not cock. Hmm, I then pressed trigger while cocking hammer. When I released the trigger, the rifle stayed cocked. I repeated the above performance twice. I'm at a loss.

All screws are NOT supposed to be snug. . . .If you snug the screw with the spring on it, that controls the locking mechanism, you WILL run into problems.

If I remember, I will go home and take a picture of the mechanism, show you which screw.

 

[Bill]

Thanks, A picture might really help.

 

[Dwayne]

Here is a picture of a Lock. . .
My little finger is just in front of the screw that has the spring on it. . .right behind the half cocked hammer.

That screw is the "set" screw for triggger mechanism, which controls how "light" of a trigger you have (pounds per pull). If you have it too light (screwed in too tight), the hammer may or many not be able to latch when you pull back.

Or, it may latch, but after a few times it will stop latching because the set screw has worked itself out a little, or the "Lip" that the cocking mechanism relies on has worn a smooth "lip" on it from too tight of a screw. Back this screw out and your mechanism will probably work solidly.

Almost all locks will have this screw. .. It will be located in almost the same position in most locks. . .just behind the hammer. Some may be hidden between two sheets of metal (Like this one), some will not. I will try to upload another kind of lock with the picture of the screw on it.

Dwayne

 

[Bill]

Thanks dyane, I'll give it a try in the morning.