.458 Bullets/Sabots

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MIDeerhunter67

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Hello,

looking around for some loads for my knight, anyone messed with .458 bullets and .458 harvester crush ribs? Just toying around with the idea.
 
What kind of bullets do you run? Also, do you shoot blackhorn or other subs?

There are plenty of 458's on the market, but I really prefer the Lehigh/Knight Bloodline. The 458x275 is a really great all around bullet and the the .458x300 is awesome on elk.

Other market bullets available that I toy with are the sierra 458x300.

You can get this bullet directly from Lehigh... It is built for centerfire rifles but will load very in a ML. From the centerfire it is being shot a 1750 fps.

.458 Controlled Fracturing® 300gr Bullet (lehighdefense.com)

From a ML you can get a little more velocity. This ballistic sheet is computed using the 300 Bloodline with 120 gr. (vol) BH-209

Lehigh458-300.jpg


This page shows the results with 120 gr. (vol) of T7-2f

300120T7.jpg


As you can see I use both T7 and Bh. Bh is to expensive for to shoot as much as I would like so I often use T7.

mike
 
Thanks I’ll check them out! Blackhorn is too hard to find! And too rich for my blood at the moment!
 
Thanks I’ll check them out! Blackhorn is too hard to find! And too rich for my blood at the moment!

The only problem you might experience with T7 and 209 ignition is what is called the 'crud ring'. Couple of suggestion do not use any product with Teflon or petroleum in your bore. Use only Synthetic oils or products.

You will need to run a slightly damp patch after each shot at the range. Once you bet your bore conditioned you will be able to get 2-3 off without patching - maybe needed in a hunting situation.

I make these Blue Windex patches just for that purpose.

WinPatch.jpg


Another problem experienced by first time users is that T7 can seize your breach plug. It would be my suggestion that after 4-5 shots remove the bolt and turn the BP back a 1/4 of a turn then re-snug it up.

I beat this problem by wrapping the BP in Teflon tape. But it does take a while to master the project.

I really prefer this specific tape, but regular white tape will work.

1-Blue-Monster.jpg


2-Nose-Wrap.jpg


3-Wrapped-Tapped.jpg


Wrapping_a_Plug.jpg


Hope some of these pics might help - got lots more
 
I have gobs of blue monster I support my muzzleloader addiction by being a pipe fitter, so you just use windex as your swan and do you clean it with windex? Or do you do soap and water after a session? Also, you don’t use grease at all, just the blue monster tape?
 
I have gobs of blue monster I support my muzzleloader addiction by being a pipe fitter, so you just use windex as your swan and do you clean it with windex? Or do you do soap and water after a session? Also, you don’t use grease at all, just the blue monster tape?

Yes Blue Windex with factory Ammonia in - Ammonia is a natural metal stripper... Wrapping it correctly is one of the keys but since you have the skill s a pipe fitter - the BP will be second nature.

I do not use any lube on the BP but you might until you feel comfortable with just tape.

Cleaning

Bore-Cleaning.jpg


And naturally other people have other methods but this works very well for me... especially after the barrel is broken in.

mike
 
I've had great luck on elk with 405 gr. Remington .458's designed for the .45-70. I'd use a 300 gr. bullet for deer. I use the crush rib sabots, and they fit fine in my rifle. I use 777 and swab between shots. My rifle uses #11 caps so it doesn't get a crud ring. I use automotive anti-seize compound on my breechplug. I have a tiny Testor's model paint bottle and a toothpick to apply it. I only take mine apart once a year, and it always comes out easily. BH 209 is too rich for me, and so are most of the muzzleloader bullets out there. The .45-70 bullets are usually much less expensive, and are designed for the kind of velocities modern muzzleloaders are capable of.
 

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