.50 Cal Pedersoli Hawken Hunter 1:24 twist vs Rice barrel

[rfd]

Hooked patent breeches and bbl wedges are the bee's knees way to go with muzzy long guns for cleaning convenience. Converting to non-patent breech would make it a dream gun, but the ignition geometry of going from patent to non-patent would be no where near a drop-in replacement.

 

[Idaholewis]

yes sir, I agree. I hate that I have to remove my sight every time I remove the barrel, it will be even worse when I put my Williams FP sight on it for longer distances. Also, I wish it had a proper tang to attach sights to. Hind sight is 20/20

If I remember right with my Old Pedersoli Hawken Hunter? (Been awhile) I only had to remove 1 Tang Screw and then turn the sight to the side to allow the Tang to lift out of the Stock

 

[Idaholewis]

Hooked patent breeches and bbl wedges are the bee's knees way to go with muzzy long guns for cleaning convenience. Converting to non-patent breech would make it a dream gun, but the ignition geometry of going from patent to non-patent would be no where near a drop-in replacement.

Hey Rob, do you stil have pics of a Non Patent Breech setup?

 

[earlyg]

If I remember right with my Old Pedersoli Hawken Hunter? (Been awhile) I only had to remove 1 Tang Screw and then turn the sight to the side to allow the Tang to lift out of the Stock

Yep, you are correct. And the tang screw goes down into the trigger Assy.

 

[rfd]

Hey Rob, do you stil have pics of a Non Patent Breech setup?

Ah yes, the custom .54 Hawken that I commmissioned Tim Watson to build for me - with NO patent breech - I just did the finish.

 

[Idaholewis]

Ah yes, the custom .54 Hawken that I commmissioned Tim Watson to build for me - with NO patent breech - I just did the finish.

View attachment 17672

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That is a REALLY Nice Looking Rifle

 

[Idaholewis]

Yep, you are correct. And the tang screw goes down into the trigger Assy.

It is a Machine Screw right? (Not a Wood Screw?)

 

[earlyg]

It is a Machine Screw right? (Not a Wood Screw?)

Machine screw for the front sight attachment, and a wood screw for the rear sight attachment.

 

[Idaholewis]

Machine screw for the front sight attachment, and a wood screw for the rear sight attachment.

Just be sure to Put it back together exactly the same each time (The tightness of the Tang Screw)

 

[earlyg]

Just be sure to Put it back together exactly the same each time (The tightness of the Tang Screw)

Will do.

Also, what are your thoughts for sights for last light when it's hard to see?
And do you also use alcohol soaked patches to clean between shots at the range?

 

[Idaholewis]

Will do.

Also, what are your thoughts for sights for last light when it's hard to see?
And do you also use alcohol soaked patches to clean between shots at the range?

For a Hunting sight i use a Fiber Optic front Bead. For Target i use Globe front sights with Lee Shaver fine BPCR inserts.

I recently switched to Hoppes #9 and Alcohol 50/50 Mix (Bestill Recommendation) for Swabbing between shots, Mine is closer to Straight Hoppes #9 at this point from adding to it. This is FAR superior to Straight Isopropyl Alcohol

 

[rfd]

I'm leery of any sight system that would reside on independent planes. This is like adding a rear tang vernier to a break open action single shot rifle like a Henry or an H&R. If a proper rear vernier or peep is to be used at the tang location (as it should be), then a regular classic flat faced breech that's screwed into the bbl, machine bolted at the tang, and key wedged in the forestock would be my choice. For cleaning, pop the two wedges and unscrew the tang bolt.

 

[45-70]

Hello everyone,

I'm new here and I recently purchased a .50 Cal Pedersoli Hawken Hunter 1:24 twist (my first BP rifle, just had BP revolvers before w/RB) and although it's a solid rifle, there are things that I'm not a fan of - no tang, mediocre sights - ghost ring, chambered breech (just found out about this, had some misfires due to fouling), etc.. I'm currently using 460g Bullshop conicals (previously No Excuses) and an over the powder .54 cal wad. Decent accuracy, with the sights being my largest limitation - just ordered a Williams FP 1340 and 17A front globe for longer distances.

I've spent a lot of time reading stuff on this site, it's been a wealth of knowledge and I've found better ideas for sidelock muzzloaders on this site than I have on other sites...ironically. Obviously I have numerous questions (being a newbie and all), so bear with me. For starters, what do ya'll think is better, Pedersoli or Rice barrels? I've got my long range sight options covered, but I've gotten mixed suggestions and reviews for twilight hunting sights, any recommendations? (had a buck at twilight - couldn't see my sights) I am more concerned with functionality over being traditional, not trying to ruffle feathers, just being practical. I will be using this for hunting and long distance target - needed .50 cal for elk restrictions. Also, by cleaning in between shots I have had misfires that I think are caused by fouling in the chambered breech area, initially by not cleaning it (didn't know about it) and maybe by swabbing in between shots and pushing fouling into the antechamber - if that's the right term. Any thoughts? What do you put on the patch when swabbing between shots? What do you use to clean out that area?

I ask about the barrels because I may keep this for a short range hunting setup and then get a longer barrel for Elk hunting, etc. - such as a 32" Rice barrel or Pedersoli Missouri River Hawken.

I always popped a cap between shots after wiping

 

[earlyg]

I'm leery of any sight system that would reside on independent planes. This is like adding a rear tang vernier to a break open action single shot rifle like a Henry or an H&R. If a proper rear vernier or peep is to be used at the tang location (as it should be), then a regular classic flat faced breech that's screwed into the bbl, machine bolted at the tang, and key wedged in the forestock would be my choice. For cleaning, pop the two wedges and unscrew the tang bolt.

My Pederdoli Hawken Hunter. Poor design.

 

[rfd]

Mmmm, maybe another Watson sorta-kinda-Hawken, if'n Tom's still building ...

 

[exarcher]

Makes sense, I’ll definitely give it a shot. Thanks.

Just curious, why denatured alcohol? Is it because it's stronger than Isopropyl alcohol? Also, is grain alcohol acceptable, or is it the added methanol that makes a difference?

denatured alcohol is alcohol rendered not suitable for drinking as pharmacist, we put methylene blue in it to avoid alcohol tax in bulk purchase for cleaning at hospitals (hoods ect.) the denatured part means nothing otherwise.. so denatured would be "ethanol". PGA might be good??

 

[Fyrstyk]

denatured alcohol is alcohol rendered not suitable for drinking as pharmacist, we put methylene blue in it to avoid alcohol tax in bulk purchase for cleaning at hospitals (hoods ect.) the denatured part means nothing otherwise.. so denatured would be "ethanol". PGA might be good??

De-natured alcohol also has no water in it. Isopropyl alcohol is 30% water.

 

[GM54-120]

You can buy 91% ISO at some pharmacies but 99.999% is easy to get. Go to a auto parts store or section at Walmart. Look for ISO-HEET or a generic version.

 

[exarcher]

De-natured alcohol also has no water in it. Isopropyl alcohol is 30% water.

you are mistaken,,, "denatured" does not have anything to do with water content., just rendering unfit for consumption.. & you can get different strengths isopropyl alcohol too.. "Learned this in Pharmacy school" by the way..(and working in drug stores esp, medicine shoppe) . If a product says "de-natured" you can bet it contains ethanol (the alcohol in liquors).. otherwise there would be no reason for denaturing.. : Denatured alcohol - Wikipedia thus endeth the lesson of the day... p.s. you can buy 99 % isopropyl alcohol too here is a link for you . 99% Isopropyl Alcohol - 16 oz Bottle S-16419 - Uline

 

[Fyrstyk]

you are mistaken,,, "denatured" does not have anything to do with water content., just rendering unfit for consumption.. & you can get different strengths isopropyl alcohol too.. "Learned this in Pharmacy school" by the way..(and working in drug stores esp, medicine shoppe) . If a product says "de-natured" you can bet it contains ethanol (the alcohol in liquors).. otherwise there would be no reason for denaturing.. : Denatured alcohol - Wikipedia thus endeth the lesson of the day... p.s. you can buy 99 % isopropyl alcohol too here is a link for you . 99% Isopropyl Alcohol - 16 oz Bottle S-16419 - Uline

I stand corrected. I guess I should have consulted an expert. The hardware store, (where I get my de-natured alcohol), the customer service guy said that "De-natured" meant there was "no water". So I guess I can go to a pharmacy and just get Isopropyl alcohol. I'll look for the highest percentage of alcohol content. Should be cheaper than at the hardware store. Thanks for the info.