AH 320 Bolt Assembly

[mrlnfshr1]

Pulled the hammer from the bolt of my AH420 today to clean the powder residue from behind it. Noticed the spring had a fairly hvy grease on it. What exactly is the purpose of this grease and what type. The grease was on the spring itself, not the bolt threads that hold it in place. Has anyone tried Precision Rifle's breach plug and BH209 in this gun. The open syle plug on the gun has a lot of fouling that escapes and if I can cut back on this, cleaning would be much easier.

 

[sabotloader]

Pulled the hammer from the bolt of my AH420 today to clean the powder residue from behind it. Noticed the spring had a fairly hvy grease on it. What exactly is the purpose of this grease and what type. The grease was on the spring itself, not the bolt threads that hold it in place. Has anyone tried Precision Rifle's breach plug and BH209 in this gun. The open syle plug on the gun has a lot of fouling that escapes and if I can cut back on this, cleaning would be much easier.

I can only speculate that the amount of grease on the main hammer spring is to help prevent blow back from erroding the spring. I am also somewhat concerned if that grease were to get reall cold you gun may not funtion that well. I always cleaned and kept the hammer spring oiled but never went to the extent of greasing it.

I have not tried the PR breech plug, but I did and do use Randy Wakeman's 32 H&R Mag conversion and that did cut down on blowback a lot. I have not seen the PR BP either so I can not comment on how it might work.

Shooting BH in a A&H might be a toss-up - I thik it would work but I am not sure that the primer would stay together and that it would not create enough blow back pressure to re-cock the hammer. I have shot ti very effectivly in my Remington but I did have a metal weather shield installed on the bolt to keep any flying primer parts inside the bolt assembly.

 

[mrlnfshr1]

Not sure the grease is original since the gun was purchased on Gunbroker. Pretty much figure it isnt necessary since only part of the spring was greased. A little confused on the second part of the reply sabotloader. What would cause the primer to come apart and isnt the hammer cocked when you cycle the bolt?

 

[sabotloader]

mrlnfshr1

A little confused on the second part of the reply sabotloader. What would cause the primer to come apart and isnt the hammer cocked when you cycle the bolt?

Remember this is not really a firing pin - it is a hammer. The bolt does not really have to be operated to push the hammer back. In a regular rifle the firing pin retreats back into the face of the bolt the face of the bolt is against the the primer and the shell - and the firing pin hole in the face of the primer is not large enough to allow the primeto come out. On the other hand the hammer in your A&H can be pushed back by pressure to the point that will catch the trigger sear and re-cock the gun.

That is the other reason Western says only sealed breeches - because the primer and the primer cup can come flying back out of the breech plug with enough blow back pushing it.

Here are some pictures of primers and the blow back potential of non-closed primer system... These are from a Remington 700ml with a Cabelas 209 conversion. You can see how the primer is backing out of the primer cup on some of these.

 

[Busta]

What kind of primers are those? I had some CCI's come unglued like that in my M-98. The Federal 209A primers stayed together.

That anvil could really hurt a guy. :shock:

 

[sabotloader]

Busta

They are CCI...

 

[mrlnfshr1]

I think I understand better now. I guess the reasoning of the open primer pocket is to vent blowby to prevent the problem of exploding caps. Been shooting CCI 209 primers and 100gr 777 with no problem other than the fouling. Was hoping to switch to Blackhorn like my CVA Optima, but dont need primer pieces flying around. Would the closed primer pocket type conversion still be a problem with 777, or is the pressure generated with 2
Blackhorn greater and therefore the problem manifests itself.