bh209/more practical loading?

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just wondering what you guys think is more practical as far as loading with bh209. i currently swab after every shot. i know this is not neccessary, and have shot without swabbing with no issues. was just thinking that maybe just fouling with a primer then load and shoot might be a better way to go. this would be strickly for sighting in and hunting purposes, as i would not swab in the field. thoughts?
 
just wondering what you guys think is more practical as far as loading with bh209. i currently swab after every shot. i know this is not neccessary, and have shot without swabbing with no issues. was just thinking that maybe just fouling with a primer then load and shoot might be a better way to go. this would be strickly for sighting in and hunting purposes, as i would not swab in the field. thoughts?

You have discussed what you are doing I would agree with what you are suggesting as acceptable and does work well. However I use a slightly different approach.

For range shooting or loading for a hunt, with a cleaned bore I will pop 3 primers before loading to ensure the that the flash channel and the flame channel are clear of contaminates. Then for range shooting I will load the rifle and shoot one shot to foul the bore. From that point I will then shoot for effect. I do not patch in between shots. But, depending on the amount of shots fired after 15 - 20 shots, I will run a damp blue Windex patch up and down the bore. At that point I will continue shooting if I prefer to shoot more.

Hunting, basically the same thing. Just prior to the season I will go to the range to verify zero. Pop 3 primers and load the rifle for shooting. Normally 3 -4 shots will affirm my zero. From pack up and return home. At home I will run a single damp Windex patch and store the rifle for hunting season. 1 day prior to opening day, I will load the previously shot rifle on what I call a semi-clean bore. The rifle will remain with that load until I shoot it or the season ends. If I harvest an animal during the season then and I intend to continue hunting, I will run another damp Windex patch to semi clean the bore. And at some point, reload the rifle and start process over again.

I really do prefer and seem to get better accuracy with fouled or semi fouled bore. At the end of the season or the end of an extended range session the rifle will get a complete breakdown cleaning and put away for storage.

But again, I would suggest to you each person finds their own way to get the job done.

WinPatch.jpg
 
You have discussed what you are doing I would agree with what you are suggesting as acceptable and does work well. However I use a slightly different approach.

For range shooting or loading for a hunt, with a cleaned bore I will pop 3 primers before loading to ensure the that the flash channel and the flame channel are clear of contaminates. Then for range shooting I will load the rifle and shoot one shot to foul the bore. From that point I will then shoot for effect. I do not patch in between shots. But, depending on the amount of shots fired after 15 - 20 shots, I will run a damp blue Windex patch up and down the bore. At that point I will continue shooting if I prefer to shoot more.

Hunting, basically the same thing. Just prior to the season I will go to the range to verify zero. Pop 3 primers and load the rifle for shooting. Normally 3 -4 shots will affirm my zero. From pack up and return home. At home I will run a single damp Windex patch and store the rifle for hunting season. 1 day prior to opening day, I will load the previously shot rifle on what I call a semi-clean bore. The rifle will remain with that load until I shoot it or the season ends. If I harvest an animal during the season then and I intend to continue hunting, I will run another damp Windex patch to semi clean the bore. And at some point, reload the rifle and start process over again.

I really do prefer and seem to get better accuracy with fouled or semi fouled bore. At the end of the season or the end of an extended range session the rifle will get a complete breakdown cleaning and put away for storage.

But again, I would suggest to you each person finds their own way to get the job done.

WinPatch.jpg
Okay, I'm confused now. I know Triple 7 is water soluble, I didn't think Blackhorn was. In my research Blackhorn required Hoppes #9. Am I missing something?
 
Blackhorn soot is indeed water soluble. However, it is also soluble in Hoppes. Blackhorn carbon deposits on breech plugs and such is easier to clean using water, than it is using Hoppes.

When cleaning Blackhorn soot, it is easiest done using a patch soaked with a solvent intended for Black powder or 777, then a dry patch, and then use a patch soaked with Hoppes.

Cleaning breech plugs dirtied with Blackhorn is done easily with a solvent intended for black powder or 777. Cleaning the same breech plugs using Hoppes is a bit more difficult, but it will work if one doesn't quit.

One doesn't need to use the solvents one uses to clean black or 777, to clean Blackhorn, one may use Hoppes.
 
BH is primarily a smokeless powder. But it does also contain amounts of Sulpher and Potassium to help it classify as a BP sub. Both Sulpher and Potass are water soluble and the Blue Windex with Ammonia dissolves and removes the bulk of the two very easily and the Ammonia dries rapidly and carries water vaper with it.

Pure cleaning of the ML is done with smokeless cleaning products. This pic shows my 'easy' method of cleaning the bore.

Easy-Bore-Cleaning.jpg


An important step for me is to keep as much Petroleum oil products out of the bore. Use synthetic oils.
 
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