Flintlock lock tune advice sought....

[Sparkitoff1]

I have a CVA Mt. Rifle lock that I just acquired. It needs some help. The cock is at such and angle and position that it can only use a nub of a flint. I cannot even put in one of my full-sized flints from my custom because it will hit the frizzen high with the cock at the ready position. Using a half-flint, it touches the frizzen at the half position. So - I want to bend the cock. If I can move the head back and change the angle slightly so it will take a "normal" sized flint it will work. What is the best way to bend the cock?

Could the cock be on a square spindle post and installed one rotation too far forward? In other words, can I remove it, turn it back one setting on the square and gain more travel?

Second, the frizzen is slightly concave at the pan cover. I can see light between the pan and the cover in sort of an arch shape. I want the pan cover to sit flush. Should I take to a grinder or do it by hand with a file? The actual frizzen face is hardened and produces pretty good spark. When I did sharpen a nub of flint I shot 3-shots with instant ignition. Imagine if the cock had full travel AND proper flint! It should be a real sparker!

Moving away from the lock … does anyone know the thread of the touch hole liner for the factory CVA Mt. Rifle barrel? This one is not marked and has a low serial # of 00085XX. The current one seems to work but I am curious. It is a stainless slotted version. I would consider an RMC or something if I thought it would work better.

I can always get a cock and a frizzen from Deer Creek and elsewhere, but I am not sure that will solve anything. Any thoughts about this course of action? If I screw up the whole thing I will just get an L&R RPL and be done with it. However, I did buy this at a fair price with the intention of tinkering with the lock and refinishing the stock. I am going to try everything I can including new CVA parts before giving in to the L&R.

Thanks in advance....

 

[sunsetwrangler]

With out physically seeing the problem, which sounds like there Is plenty. Sounds like a wood mating problem as well as sloppy lock. How about some photos and yes, do everything you can before putting over 180 bucks on a new lock. The replacement locks are not a perfect fit as you might expect.

 

[Billy-by-gosh]

I once had a CVA, and it seems that the thread on that touch hole was 10 MM. Don't have it anymore to verify, but if you can pull out your liner, I would bet the hardware stores have a metric threaded nut that will screw onto it, and thereby tell you exactly what it is. I would not be above using a stainless steel bolt to fashion a custom liner.