Frizzen Hardness?
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Depends...
If you have metallurgy that is designated for "through-hardening" AND it has toughness as part of its attributes, then go for quench and temper. If not, then use case hardening to create a thin layer of hard steel on the surface. I wouls do some net research to become familiar with the processes before starting.
If you have metallurgy that is designated for "through-hardening" AND it has toughness as part of its attributes, then go for quench and temper. If not, then use case hardening to create a thin layer of hard steel on the surface. I wouls do some net research to become familiar with the processes before starting.
Buck Conner1
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Correct, case case harden ...
Two Feathers
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Howdy
In the 60's I used "Kasenite" case hardening compound. Not sure if you can still buy it, but it's worth looking for.
It was pretty simple to use. Just basically heat the piece Red Hot, bury it in the can of compound and leave it there until it cooled. Never failed. We used it on Screwdriver tips in Machinist School. Making a Screwdriver was a required project.
Good luck:
Stoney
In the 60's I used "Kasenite" case hardening compound. Not sure if you can still buy it, but it's worth looking for.
It was pretty simple to use. Just basically heat the piece Red Hot, bury it in the can of compound and leave it there until it cooled. Never failed. We used it on Screwdriver tips in Machinist School. Making a Screwdriver was a required project.
Good luck:
Stoney
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Yes, Kasenite was a great product, and I loved using that, but unfortunately it is NO longer manufactured. There are other products out there to case-harden, such as Cherry Red, but they do not include the cyanide process that was present in Kasenite. However, Kasenite and Cherry Red do not produce any visible color-case-harding effects.
Case-hardening itself is not rocket science, almost any carbon bearing compound can be introduced to begin the heat process, albeit with varying success. Charcoal (both bone and wood varieties), coal, graphite, and even plain sugar has been used. Turner Kirkland of DGW used to publish the old-time method of packing your frizzen (coated with bone charcoal) inside of clay, placing the clay in a tin can, and baking it in a hardwood fire for an hour or more, followed by quick quenching in a bucket of water. YMMV
At my stage of life, I wilI just pay the money for a commercial product and git-er-done the quick way!
BBG
Case-hardening itself is not rocket science, almost any carbon bearing compound can be introduced to begin the heat process, albeit with varying success. Charcoal (both bone and wood varieties), coal, graphite, and even plain sugar has been used. Turner Kirkland of DGW used to publish the old-time method of packing your frizzen (coated with bone charcoal) inside of clay, placing the clay in a tin can, and baking it in a hardwood fire for an hour or more, followed by quick quenching in a bucket of water. YMMV
At my stage of life, I wilI just pay the money for a commercial product and git-er-done the quick way!
BBG
Buck Conner1
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.
On some of our subjects it is easier to find what your looking for by using the Internet which most have found out and it's right at your fingertips.
This subject has lots of good information.
Example.
Hardening is desirable for metal components that are subject to sliding contact with hard or abrasive materials, as the hardened metal is more resistant to surface wear. However, because hardened metal is usually more brittle than softer metal, through-hardening (that is, hardening the metal uniformly throughout the piece) is not always a suitable choice. In such circumstances, case-hardening can produce a component that will not fracture (because of the soft core that can absorb stresses without cracking), but also provides adequate wear resistance on the hardened surface.
For the whole story go to: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Case-hardening
On some of our subjects it is easier to find what your looking for by using the Internet which most have found out and it's right at your fingertips.
This subject has lots of good information.
Example.
Hardening is desirable for metal components that are subject to sliding contact with hard or abrasive materials, as the hardened metal is more resistant to surface wear. However, because hardened metal is usually more brittle than softer metal, through-hardening (that is, hardening the metal uniformly throughout the piece) is not always a suitable choice. In such circumstances, case-hardening can produce a component that will not fracture (because of the soft core that can absorb stresses without cracking), but also provides adequate wear resistance on the hardened surface.
For the whole story go to: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Case-hardening
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I haven't tried it, but Cherry Red (as also mentioned by Billy-by-gosh) is shown as a good substitute: Steel Surface-Hardening Compound | 81-003-201 | Travers Tool Co., Inc.
I am attaching an article I pulled off the old MLML site (no longer around) on charcoal hardening the frizzen.
~WH~
I am attaching an article I pulled off the old MLML site (no longer around) on charcoal hardening the frizzen.
~WH~
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