Jeep is comin together!

[exMember]

well, shes back in and finally done right! EXHAUSTED to say the least, but everything went smooth other than the pass side motor mount always being a pain in the ass.

have to get some small parts in town tomorrow just to replace the older vacuum lines,fuel lines, new coil, plug wires,new hose clamps, etc. Not a whole lot of stuff, just the stuff we had not bought yet.

Clutch feels great so far, we'll make the adjustments if it needs any once the motor is up and running.

 

[exMember]

ITS ALIVE!!!!!!  After some timing issues, we decided it best to leave the distributor a little loose and adjust it while we were turning it over. Bang, cough, BANG! VROOOOOOOMM!  Huuuuge relief! Smooth as butter for 13 minutes until, Cought, back fire, flame shoots out..... WTF?!!

Hose in the gas can we were using ( bad fuel in the regular fuel tank) pulled up during the break in and so she couldnt get any more gas.

Letting it cool down and then we'll do an oil change, adjust timing and carb and go from there.

I think the scary part is now over?

 

[exMember]

oh yeah, paint completely burned off on the exhaust manifold LOL. I think it got a  little hotter than it was rated for.

 

[Muley Hunter]

13 minute oil changes? That could get expensive.

 

[exMember]

gotta break it in and then change it afterward. The break in process smooths out any burrs on the rings,cam,bearings, etc.

Oil was around $7 a quart for the comp cams engine break in oil. Not a bad price,certainly a lot cheaper than rebuilding it due to low % zinc in the oil LOL.

 

[Muley Hunter]

I know, but 13 minutes isn't broken in.

 

[exMember]

10 to 20 minutes is the initial break in period. It will take up to 500 miles before all it broken in, but the 10-20 is crucial for the new camshaft break in. It can not even idle for the first 250 miles otherwise you chance the cam going flat. Once we get into it, we'll adjust the idle speed around 1000 RPM just to keep things safe.

 

[Muley Hunter]

Is that what that oil said to do? Change at 20 min? I never used it, and would just change oil at 200-300 miles on the motors I built. I used a special lube on the cam , and lifters. It was like a grease.

 

[exMember]

yeah the cam lobes and the bottom of the lifters got moly lube which is superb for breaking them in. Going by what we've always done. You get a lot of metal shavings off the new stuff during that 20 minute break in. Oil is cheap, so it gets changed and then goes 500 miles before another oil change.

You dont want all that stuff going through your filter among other things.

 

[Muley Hunter]

That's what the filter is for. It's not going to hurt anything to change it so soon. I've never known anybody to do it. Even engine builder, and race shops, but like you said. Oil isn't expensive.

When you buy a new car, and do the first oil change. That oil you drain is all it's seen to that point.

 

[exMember]

man does this sucker run! You just bump the key and its purring!

 

[Muley Hunter]

What's left to do now?

 

[exMember]

engine wise, just some new valve cover grommets and then we start on the suspension with new bushings, u joints, service the front/rear diff and transmission/transfer case. New shocks, etc. We're really going to just replace a lot of the old worn out stuff.

New fuel tank was ordered last night.

 

[exMember]

Fuel tank came in! Just gotta pick it up tomorrow and pray USPS didnt smash it to hell and back.

I scrubbed and prepped the rear section of the cab and fenders today. Two thin coats of rustoleum truck bed liner applied. I was looking at rhino and Herc but thats pretty much overkill and its really rough. I am putting new rubber flooring in anyway so this was just a protective coating for any water that gets onto the floor boards.

 

[Muley Hunter]

What about that rusty area by the rollbar? It feels left out.

 

[exMember]

LOL spring time, I am going to lift the top, scrub the roll bar down and paint it too. Have to reseal the top as well.

 

[exMember]

alrighty, new brakes/cylinders/u joints/seals up front. Dropped the fuel tank down today for replacement, thats going well but not going to be finished for a couple days as we're looking at the fuel return upgrade and how to do it. Also going to pull the pumpkin cover on the rear end, drain the oil, clean it, reseal it and get that all out of the way. After that, new yoke seal, drive line/transfer case u joints and fluid changes.

Almost done on the bottom end!

 

[Muley Hunter]

Good thing hunting seasons are a year away. :clown:

 

[exMember]

yeah it takes time to do it right though lol. Some of these parts are hard to find. Been waiting 2 1/2 weeks now for a back ordered fuel vent hose. Luckily ours still looks good so if it doesnt come in, no biggy.

 

[patocazador]

After all this work, you'd better drive it for at least 10 years.