MK85 Stock Question...

[MK85]

They said it was fully inletted for MK85. I'm confident it'll take the original pad. Whatcha got?

 

[MK85]

Then again, I'm impatient. I'll take your advice and wait till I get it in-hand. Probably be last of next week, or a little longer before it arrives. Thanks

 

[longbowsteve]

The MK85 stock will work on the LKII and the LK93 Wolverines,but the LK stocks will not fit on the MK guns.One action has a square receiver and the others have a round receiver. The BK 92 stock will fit just fine on a MK85 gun as they use the same receiver.

 

[ShawnT]

Did you get your new stock?

 

[MK85]

Should ship tomorrow or Tuesday, then USPS. Might have it by Saturday, or few days later.

 

[MK85]

Got it, got some pics - this got many more cutouts than necessary. But no inletting on the butt, is flat all the way across.......

 

[sabotloader]

I just now completed installing a new 'Grind to fit' Limb Saver recoil pad on my DISC Extreme with a with a 'keyed' Knight Recoil pad on it. Of course the Limb Saver is not keyed but it presented no problem to installation.

 

[MK85]

This is stock fits TIGHT on my barrelled action. No roll of the receiver. I did order a Knight factory slip on just in case, glad I did, was cheap quick fix.

 

[MK85]

But the ramrod holder has to be fitted and the lug screw hole is not countersunk. I guess if I tighten it enough the hole will countersink.

 

[HC]

Not only will it countersink, but there’s a risk of splitting the stock. Countersink tools aren’t that expensive.

 

[MK85]

Right. I did just in fact buy a standard screw and washer. Wasn't that hard to come by. If I hadn't left home without the plunger I'd have some load results right now. Will try that tomorrow.

 

[ShawnT]

That looks like one of the Numrich arms Stocks. Those are pre-carved, and sanded but do require final fitting. Since they don't drill the holes in the butt, and its flat, if I were you I would get a Limbsaver like Sabotloader used. Pachmayr is another good alternative. Once it is attached to the stock you just sand the outer rubber down. Trick is to go slow and don't rush. The rubber heats up and will tear. Sand lightly with power sander, Disk sander would be the easiest but I don't have one so do mine with a Dremel with a longer drum and mandrel (1"long) that I got from McMaster Carr. Then buff with finer grades of paper on a block. Also lube the pad and sanding disk with Pledge With lemon Oil Furniture polish. It helps lube the paper and rubber. That is the recommended lube by Pachmayr.

This might help with sizing.

Recoil Pad Templates (lymanproducts.com)

 

[MK85]

Thanks for the explanations and photos. Wonder what's the stock need as far as finishing, clear coat only? I see Rust-Oleum has a laquer spray can application that's really quick. Like you said the wood has been sanded, but that's all.

 

[MK85]

I guess due to the color already in- place and different color streaks yielding a laminated sort of appearance, all that would be needed now is a clear coat kind of application - satin or matt. Then after 7 or so days of full curing (where the scent's supposed to be gone from the solvent based coat), probably a scent killer spray down should be a good final application. Think I'll plan to proceed probably in that fashion.

 

[MrTom]

There are a number of "rub-on" oil finishes that are wonderful stock finishes and they don't have a super strong odor to them. I use a couple on some wood turnings a buddy does for me and I set them outside on a nice day where a breeze can get on them and any odor is gone that evening. I did a rifle stock re-finish and used a min-wax product over walnut and it turned out incredible.

 

[ShawnT]

I would start by mounting the pad first. Once it is "Ground to fit" then you can start the finishing. Depending on how smooth the current sanding is, you just use finer grades to get it as smooth as you want. If you see any open grain then you can rub in some filler to fill those places so it gives a better smoother final finish. What you apply to it is I suppose a more personal thing. You can use spray on finish if you choose. I have used lots of Tru-Oil on many wood stocks. You can use Linspeed or Tung oil too. Buff between coats with 0000 steel wool or very very fine grade scotch brite. But again work on your pad first so that when sanding the pad if you get the sand paper into the stock its easier to sand the stock again Before you have applied finish but its harder if the stock is already got finish on it.

 

[ShawnT]

Here is one I finished as an example. Ground the pad first, filled the open grain then finished with about 6 coats of Tru-Oil.

 

[MrTom]

That's a beautiful job Shawn.

 

[ShawnT]

Thanks Tom. It's my cousins Model 12 that belonged to his Dad. I showed it somewhere in the Modern section a few years ago.

 

[MrTom]

I had a Model 12 Skeet Special 20 gauge that came in a hard leather take-down case lined with lamb's wool. I got the gun with the original box of shells bought for it, one missing. I got it from the original owner, a sheep farmer that let us shoot pigeons on his place to keep them out of his hay barn. Shot there for 12-15 years and eventually hauled hay bales down from the loft each week so he and his wife didn't have to climb the old wood ladder to get to the bales. Both were in their late 80's when they finally had to sell the farm. Each Christmas I brought them a ham and a bottle of nice wine. When the farm went up for sale he gifted me the gun. A Winchester collector discovered I owned the gun and pestered me with offers until it got so ridiculous high I couldn't justify the insurance on it anymore. I never shot the gun and never displayed it, it was always left in the case. That lamb's wool lining had so much natural lanolin in it there was never so much as a spot of rust on the gun. Lots of bucks for that little 20.