MK85 Stock Question...

[MK85]

Yeah that's a nice, nice finish. Should that also be applied to the channel and inletting by any small amount? I worry about dis-assembly and re-assembly and boogering-up the inletting edges since the woods not coated with anything on the interior. I don't think most guns have any type coating on the interior, so may just need be careful when taking it apart and reinstalling the steel I guess.

 

[MK85]

Looks like that true oil's the way to go: fast drying, fast scent die out, low toxic..........really good idea there.

 

[ShawnT]

Should that also be applied to the channel and inletting by any small amount?

I would and I do that.
Actually lots of rifles do have some coating in the barrel channel and action area, just not as much, just enough to seal it. You can apply the tru-oil to the barrel channel to seal it too. Don't need a lot there just enough to seal the wood and you can sand that barrel channel a little before applying or after its applied and its dry and it will still be sealed as long as you don't sand enough to remove it. First coat or 2 will soak in and seal the wood. Don't shake the bottle of Tru-Oil either, that will put bubbles in the oil and then that shows in the finish. I like to pour a small amount in a little medicine cup to dip my fingers in and then rub it into the stock, keeps the bottle cleaner and less apt to get crusted oil in the bottle. Let that dry and buff it out some, then apply again till I get the finish I want. Go slow and don't try to put it on heavy or it will run and be uneven. You can get the Tru-oil in a spray can but I only tried it once and did not really care for it that way. It was ok, I just prefer the rub in style because I don't have a place indoors to spray finishes. The standard Tru-Oil is available at about any gun shop. They do make one that is more of a satin finish (Genuine Oil) but I think you have to get it direct from Birchwood Casey. I have never seen it retail and have never used it but want to try that in my next refinish job. I also use their Walnut stain too. You can also try Tung Oil that is usually available at a hardware store. I have just had good luck with Tru-Oil so I stick with it. Tru oil is also a finish that gets harder the longer it sits and cures too.

Genuine Oil™Gun Stock Finish, 3 fl.oz. Bottle - Birchwood Casey

If you are not familiar with them you can get lots of things for gun project at Brownells.

Brownells - Firearms, Reloading Supplies, Gunsmithing Tools, Gun Parts and Accessories

 

[MTY]

I second Tru Oil. I have over the years used gym floor finish, linseed oil, lin-speed, tru-oil and tung oil. Tru-Oil is the best of the lot. Rub it in until your fingers get warm, let it dry, buff with fine steel wool that has been de-oiled, clean with a soft cloth to remove fibers from the steel wool and apply another coat of Tru-Oil. I usually do 6 or 7 coats.

Edited to add, if you are going to checker, apply the Tru-Oil, checker, brush the checkering out with a tooth brush, and then brush Tru-Oil into the checkering.

 

[MK85]

Back in action, I am !!!!!! Now it's time to really concentrate on the finish! That new stock allowed me to pin down the accuracy. But now it's a triple F gun. I'm still using the new non-tapered-flame-channel breech plug and ran across just a little bit of remnant FFFG Triple 7 from years past and the gun likes it. The brown board group is 50 yds and playing with bore friction. The black target is 100 yds with bore friction decided-upon - that is to say, a clean, DRY bore - dry patched to the point it makes the otherwise easy-to-load SST's difficult to load with one arm. The black target 100yd group is about 1.25" center to center", 1.5" at worst. When I'm done with the stock finish and recoil pad then I'll get the dirty-reload-dirty-shot group results. All in all though, first shot (1 shot only) is what counts during open season I guess. Hooraaah!

 

[MK85]

OK. So here's good enough for season use. I had a (bad) idea on the finishing and used a cheap horsehair brush. Still got some buffing to do as you can see near the butt edge. The low profile limsavr pad can be perfected with some hand sanding on both bottom and around edges was - gunsmith did good job on short notice and in a hurry with the belt sander. This low profile pad and stock result in a short lop, but be just right with heavy clothing. I myself would benefit on the cheek weld with a step higher (from Medium to High) in ring height - this setup pretty flat - is testing the waters on the AR plane of "low". Gunsmith pointed out that the Numerch stock turned color because it's not pure wood, but a composite material. And boy is it hard! Can't just start a screw and keep on twisting, GOT to pre-drill if hole's not already there, and if already there, got use Alan wrench or pliers for (Heavy) leverage. LK93 ramrod fittings are the only major issue, can create wide spot easy enough but going to have to inlet (sink) for it too. I think a 0.3725" fg rod is a bit big for an MK85 - wants to lift the bbl out of the forend, I broke my Knight aluminum rod a while back. All-in-all it's a tight fit accuracy solution, rugged, cold-weather-clothing quick handler.

 

[ShawnT]

Looking good so far.

The oil or whatever finish your using will darken and unfinished wood product, that's normal. I think that coloring looks great That stock is not solid wood but a wood laminate. Its many layers of thin wood that is glued together. A Laminate is more stable in temperature changes over solid wood, which is why they came up with them. The laminating makes the stock Tiff and the glue layers add the rigidity, It adds a little bit to weight too depending on what is used in the layers. Yes it is harder but should last many years. Some of the last Benchrest competition stocks I saw, when I stopped competing, were layers of lightweight wood and alternating layers of Carbon Fiber material. Made for a stiff but light weight stock that they could still make weight in the class they were shooting. Some thought the Wood part was what absorbed some of the vibrations in the rifle better than straight fiberglass or Graphite stocks. An All wood stock like say Walnut would make the stocks too heavy to make weight. Your better off, even with solid wood, to pre-drill any holes in the stock to prevent any possibility of cracking/splitting.

If you decide you need more LOP go with a standard 1" Pad, that looks like a 1/2" pad. I like hunting rifles a little shorter LOP to allow for layers of clothing, but that is always a personal fitment matter. If you stick with what you have a want to do some hand sanding, get a Block for your sandpaper and some Pledge with Lemon Oil furniture polish. Spray a bit on the paper and buff away. Make sure to wrap the stock with some Masking tape and replace it as needed to help prevent slipping and getting the sandpaper into the finish. Use some finer grades of paper and you'll be pleasantly surprised how the finish on the rubber smooths out.

 

[MK85]

It's a 5/8" and thick "low profile". The minimum dimensions are outlined on the bottom in the form of a thin raised oval ring about 1/16 or 1/32" high, that's why it's not totally flush with the bottom surface of the stock yet, need to sand that ring down then it'll set flush. Yeah, I like the color produced by that true oil too. Thanks.

 

[ShawnT]

If you decide you need more LOP but don't need a full 1", you can get a hard plastic spacer to add too. goes between the pad and the stock. But since the pad is already sanded to match the stock lines that will change a bit, mostly on the bottom of the "Heel". That angle will look a little off if you add spacer. Some might not notice it though.